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Do it yourself Turbo Kit

BlueByYou2000 said:
Hooper, This is Snowfevers post, has been for some time. Where in here did he ask you for a description of how an Intercooler works. By posting this, you make it sound like something he hasnt thought of.
Mikey asked about IC a few lines up. Sorry for that,just tried to help.
 

Hooper, actually I wish someone around here had a Bender set up so we could have a go as well but the nearest one I know of is about 450 miles from here, but a fellow an hour South of here did his own Bender style kit and did a good job of it and I'm sure I'll get a chance to ride with him to do some testing as well. He just can't get rid of his Turbo lag, and he has a minor fueling problem but I sent him some info on how to help out these two problems. He was help for me on one of my stumbling blocks so I hope I can return the favor for his set up. He has the same Turbo as mine, he has 2 boost levels 3lbs and 6lbs, he runs pump gas, NO intercooler and put his Turbo on last year as soon as he got his sled, never rode it once without the turbo. I don't know how many miles he put on but he never had any problems as far as the motor goes. A buddy of mine is a DIE HARD Polaris guy and he lent me this book that Polaris produces and it tells you how to figure what Octane you need for what compression, C.C. ect. you are running. With this and the Turbo books I have I come up with 96 Octane for my set up of 6lbs so I'm just going to put 3gallons of 100LL Ave in with high grade pump and that will be more then enough. I called a guy at Shell Canada back East and asked him what 100LL would convert to in pump gas and he said that it would be around 110 octane. There is a bunch of variables it gets real technical, way over my head but he sent me the spec sheet on it. I can't find the sheet now though so I could quote some of the specs but anyways it'll work. The nice thing about a 4 stroke compared to a 2 stroke is that every 2nd time the piston comes up you have a cooling stroke (exhaust stroke) so you can run too low of octane for short burst on high boost levels. I think thats how the guy down South from me is getting away with running 6lbs boost on high grade pump gas but I'm going to try be a little more on the safe side. We have a real nice drag strip 10mins from my house here where I used to take my Bikes, Cars, Sleds and just for fun even my 96' GMC 4x4 too anyways there is a fellow that comes up from down South with a 1000 Suzuki with an automotive Turbo on it and to be honest the install is a little on the farmer side but he runs 138mph @ 9.40s and were at 2200' Elevation and its his daily driver he says. He rides it up here and he has no intercooler. If you see a book called Maximum Boost it's very good about 52 Candian and there's another one thats pretty good by Corky Bell on Turbos and they give in EXTREME detail the how whats and whys of Turbo installs.
 
Fever, your work is awesome. As I have said before I wish I had your talent.

I can't remember, but I think you were estimating around $1800 CDN in costs plus your time.

Who cares if it performs slightly less than a bender or an MC? It should stomp most stock sleds and is costing you a third of what the others sell for. Hell you may even get lucky and have it outperform the others. Don't forget the joy of having such a quality install that you did yourself.

I didn't mean to cause a problem in this thread. Hooper just strikes me as being pro MC and anti anything else. Please keep the posts coming Fever!!
 
Sounds very good fever,and hooper i am sure the mc is tops,but its not cost effective for most of us,i wish someone had one that was pump gas safe made at least 180 hp plus and could install myself for around $3,500 lol that would get we in line for one. Now that being said snow,are you and jtt working on something,or is it only jtt that is? And has anyone heard about simmons turbo?
 
Your project looks awsome fever, home built stuff is the best. Your welding and polishing skills are very good also. Hope the performance is up to you expectations as well.
 
Thanks to everyone that has been supportive through this project to date. This is the way I look at it guys, I ride a custom (lots of home made parts on it) 97' Suzuki Marauder, some Harley guys call it Jap scrap and much worst. I don't really give a $hi1 and why do they they don't have to ride it. I ride what I like or think goes or looks good to me and I figure whats the big deal we're all in it for the same reason FUN FACTOR (and to kick our buddies a$$ maybe) So everyone has their own idea a whats good, what works and so on so lets try keep this site from become like other sites and let continue to help each so we can all benifit from others mistakes, experiences and acheivments. As far as my Turbo project goes it gave me something to do this summer and hopfully gave some of you guys something to read while waiting for our beloved white gold to come back.
 
Well everything is back together ready to (I thought or hoped)ride. If any of you have ever tried to pull your air box off and then run the motor you'll of experienced the problem I have now. When you wack the throttle it revs VERY quickly to about 6500-7000rpm then craps out. CV carbs need a vacum to operate the slides but I had this dream that with the small air box it might draw enough vacum at the beginning when you throttle up and then work fine afterwards. My buddies always say LAY DOWN IF YOUR GONNA DREAM. Hey I say you can always dream can't ya. Anyways this may put my testing this weekend on hold because if I'M going to error I want to error on the safe side. My plan is to work with the springs in the slides by making them either shorter or using softer ones. I confirmed my problem by putting my hand over the air cleaner on the Turbo and it reved right up. NO VACUM to the CV carbs = NO slide lift and the LEAN FACTOR. If anyone has any better ideas I would love to hear them but if not I'll work on the spring theory and keep you guys posted.
 
Fever;
You're on the right track with the springs. You can either buy them for $40.00 or you can cut your own. With your common sense I'm sure you could cut your own. The CV carb, in my opinion, was a big mistake on Yamaha's part to put them on snomobiles. Excellent work on the turbo project.
SS
 
Snow Fever


how much will it cost to get 2 venst like you did for yours for all of us that would like some
my rx1 is also black
so i see you have the color match
would you pls pm me or even email me a price on the vents pls thnx marc

srxxtreem@hotmail.com

thnx

man you got game Snow Fever
you do killer work dont let some asses on here tell you different
man if i only knew 1/2 of what you know now about the rx1 i would be in heaven
thnx
 
Srxxtreme, sorry dude I'm not into selling any of the stuff I'm building but if you really want some they are not hard to build just time consuming. Yes it is possible that I could make molds off of the ones I built and then make a mold off that mold but thats not the hard part, finishing is the hard part. I finish my stuff till I'm happy but to sell stuff it should be perfect or next to it. Thats why I build my own $hi! tired of paying jaboonys for JUNK or stuff that doesn't work any better then stock and having to rebuild it to what makes me happy. If you send me an private E-mail I'll give you a call and explain in detail what I did on anything on my sled. I already have 2 freinds lined up for work when I finish my own stuff and with my job I just don't have the time. Thanks for asking though I'm flattered. Hope I can help ya out though.
 
Well a buddy of mine came over last nite and we got into the Black Russians (some of our best theories come out of a bottle Ha Ha) we started kicking some stuff around and then went out to test the theories, We first just removed the air box but left everthing else in place and while up on the jack stand I cranked on it while he watched the slides to see what was really happening. The slides would only go to about 3/4 full stroke and it crapped out. Then he says well lets go EXTREME the other way. We have learned that when $hi1 don't work try go extreme the other way to see if the theory is on the right track. So I'm talking cutting springs and he says lets just take the springs right out! I told him I think you've had to much to drink. He said hey it'll prove it one way or the other real fast just make sure your kill switch is working. So a little reluctantly I pulled all the springs out of the slides, he stuck his fingers in the carbs to hold the slides down and I started the sled. It started up and ran fine so then I cranked on it and it crapped right away with the slides held down, then just to see what would happen he manually raised one slide all the way up without me giving it any gas on the thumb throttle. Nothing changed. Next we manually raised all the slides with our fingers with the thumb throttle closed, still nothing happened and when we let them go they closed fairly quickly by themselfs. So then he watched as I cranked the throttlle as we let the slides operate on there own and it did crap a little at the instant I hit the throttle but then this thing REVED UP and SCREAMED OUT FASTER then any sled I have seen while up on a jack stand. This was only a couple of seconds at WOT. Holy $hi! was the expression on both our faces. So to confirm what just happened I did it a couple more times with the same results and all three times my buddy said the slides slammed wide open instantly. Now this is not all there is to it I still have to get the right spring tension because if the slides are open too much in the mid range the air velocity will slow down going past the emullsion tubes and it won't pull enough fuel from the float bowls causing a lean condition. We read all the info we could find on CV carbs and went through my shop manual on this sled before we tried this so we could get a good idea in our heads as to what was really happening in these carbs but without the wobbly pops for courage I don't think I'd of tried the NO spring test for fear of sending this thing through the wall and putting a BIG dent in the wife's washing machine in the basement. So now I will start cutting springs, this will work just have to get it right.
 


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