Doo Wheels

[JTD0314]

I replaced the outer four wheels on my skid with 135 MM Doo aftermarket wheels. They clearly take pressure off of the slides, but I am a little concerned that they are too far away from the rubber guides/tabs on the track. The wheel are about 1/8 of an inch further away from the track guides/tabs. Will this cause problems?

 

[SharkAttak]

I replaced the outer four wheels on my skid with 135 MM Doo aftermarket wheels. They clearly take pressure off of the slides, but I am a little concerned that they are too far away from the rubber guides/tabs on the track. The wheel are about 1/8 of an inch further away from the track guides/tabs. Will this cause problems?

you might have to get the holder's shaved down so they won't rub

 

[SharkAttak]

i believe it was, you take like -.10 off the holder

 

[ReX]

I replaced the outer four wheels on my skid with 135 MM Doo aftermarket wheels. They clearly take pressure off of the slides, but I am a little concerned that they are too far away from the rubber guides/tabs on the track. The wheel are about 1/8 of an inch further away from the track guides/tabs. Will this cause problems?

If you really want to re-center them, you need to take of 0.060" from the mounts (from the surface that the side of the bearing presses against).

Since the wheels are also quite a bit wider than the stock wheels, the inner edge of the wheel shouldn't really be any farther out than the stock wheels (but the outer edge would be farther out).

To give you some numbers, the Doo wheels use 6205 bearings that are 15mm wide. The stock wheels use 6005 bearings that are 12mm wide. The difference is 3mm or 0.120". The center of the wheel moves out by half of the change in bearing width or 0.060" (just imagine how much the center of the bearing moves outwards to understand why this is 1/2 the width change).

Just make certain there is enough bolt length to safely lock the threads and don't worry about the 0.060" change in wheel center. If you were to change the inner wheels it is a different situation. The inner wheels ride between the track guide cogs so keeping them centered is more important.

 

[ReX]

One other thing I thought I'd mention is it is a good idea to change the hyfax at the same time as installing larger OD wheels (if you didn't). This way there isn't any extra load on the wheels that could potentially lead to cracked slide rails (at least until the hyfax wears right down - but it shouldn't do this with 135mm wheels).

 

[JTD0314]

Thanks for the input. It could be that they are Parts Unlimited wheels. They are tapered more than the OEM Doo wheels and might stick out a tad further. I might just run the 130 MM wheels until spring and as a summer project have the mounts machined.

 

[ReX]

Thanks for the input. It could be that they are Parts Unlimited wheels. They are tapered more than the OEM Doo wheels and might stick out a tad further. I might just run the 130 MM wheels until spring and as a summer project have the mounts machined.

I don't see how a wheel can move itself out more than another.

The bearing must be centered within the wheel otherwise the wheel would be prone to early failure. If the bearing is centered, the center of the wheel can only move 0.060" max outwards by switching from 6005 to 6205 bearings.

You must be measuring it wrong somehow.

I've never heard of anyone ever machining the outer mounts and many of us, myself included, have run wheels with 6205 bearings in our monoshock skids for huge miles. Over 10,000 km in my case alone.

The only risk that you are taking is going to oversized wheels. There is a possibility that once the hyfax wears down that this might increase the loads on the slide rails and potentially lead to cracking. As long as you change the hyfax along with the wheels this is pretty much a non-issue (although Yamaha may disagree).

 

[SharkAttak]

i have the 135mm wheels on all six, over 4,000 mi. never had a problems, less hyfax wear, another thing to do if you have the stock track is to put the slp anti-wear pads, pull up one on the limiter and run the track as loose as possible without rachetting and lastly try the old style narrower hyfax, they go thru the track windows alot easier and have less drag which all this results into more speed, the track will roll real easy

 

[TBay Sledhead]

What really made a difference on my Attak slider wear was when I put on the marginal snow wheels from CB Performance, $75. That slowed the slider wear between the rear wheels and the two sets of front idlers. They go on the inside of the rail. That is a long span there with no wheels, I find now that the sled rolls easier. I also have on the oversize wheel.