Dual rate center spring

[RedPhazer]

I'm assuming somebody out there makes a dual rate center spring for the Phazer? If so, has anybody out there tried a dual rate center spring? Did it help smooth out the ride in the stutter bumps?

Thanks!

 

[cannondale27]

HyGear.I have it on mine couldnt tell any difference from stock cheapo steel shock with stock spring or now rebuildable Viper shock with stock spring and now Hygear spring.Would like to try the Polaris spring a few have talked about.

 

[RoicIND]

I've tried multiple progressive rate center springs from both late model polaris's and ski doo's and finally settled on a doo spring..

Depending on your body weight and riding style, I may be able to recommend a spring for you.

The nice thing about Ski Doo springs is that they are color coded and they have a plethora of spring rates easily available...

 

[RoicIND]

I've tried multiple progressive rate center springs from both late model polaris's and ski doo's and finally settled on a doo spring..

Depending on your body weight and riding style, I may be able to recommend a spring for you.

The nice thing about Ski Doo springs is that they are color coded and they have a plethora of spring rates easily available...

 

[terret725]

i run s sping of rge center shock of a polaris fusion, made a big differnce, softer down bottom on stuters and almost totalt eliminated the center bottoming.

 

[cannondale27]

Wierd my center shock never bottomed even with stock steel junk shock in center.I would like everyone to have great suspension but I cannot advise anyone to do a thing to the center shock because I really think the rear shock does 90% of the work in our skids.That may be exaggerating but not much.Not everyone can afford both shocks in skid.I hate to see money wasted on the center shock when HUGE gains can be made just by changing the rear.Nobody has ever backed me up on this view and I dont understand why not.

 

[terret725]

after the skid couples booth shocks are working togther so upgradeing either one will make a large gain on the big bumps. better valving in the rear will help out in the stuters and also better valving or multi rate in the center helps in stutters.

the valving in the RTX and FX shocks are junk. its like having lost a pop off valve in there. its supper stiff of the get go and then the same stiffness threw out. a good valving is soft and gets harder the faster the shock moves.

ive done alot to my shocks to get them where i like them.

rear: revalved spings see at med
center: revalved and multi rate spring
fronts: float 2 kits, relaving. running 85 PSI
ski spacers both on outside

 

[cannondale27]

No.The shocks are working together all the time.Before coupling even.Remember the link?I agree they got shock valving way wrong but changing just the rear is the most dramatic difference.

 

[terret725]

yea but thats minimal movement compaired to as when the rear torque arm bottoms on the tansfer blocks.

but anyway its agreed the shocks are crap from the get go. but can gat alot better with a little work.

if anyone wants theirs revaled my old boss does them alot cheeper then anyone ive found. plus hes a wiz. hes the second reffernace in the polaris race manual for shock and clutch tuning right under polaris race department. hes good friends with Bender, brett came out and races ATVs for us a little last year. Bretts first race sled came from my boss i think. lol

 

[cannondale27]

I havent measured it but from looking at it I would say the rear shock moves twice or more distance than the center even when just moving the front of skid.When I put my Custom Axis rear shock on I couldnt afford the center.Glad I couldnt because the rear was all I needed.Now dont get me wrong I would like to play with center shocks somemore but I went from junk steel center to a Viper center and springs changed stock,Viper,HyGear springs on both and couldnt really feel any difference at all.

 

[jason4570]

Canondale in my opinion and my close friend who has raced pro snow x for ten years the rear shock does near all of the work on the rear end of the sled and I back you 100%. cheers

 

[wayfastkev]

Front is independant until the rear hits the coupling blocks. Ask any Yamaha tech or engineer. Yea they both may show some movement when you hit small stutters. But that is because they are both bolted to the same 121" one piece aluminum frame. And yes the rear does most of the work. That is why the rear shock has longer travel than the front. The suspension just doesnt go up, it pivots toward the rear.

What the shocks need is like terret stated. They need high and low speed compression with a rebound adjustment. And I had my dear motocross suspension boys at pro circuit do mine (and no that dont do this for the general public). I have high and low speed adjustment on the rear shock. The front doesnt travel that much, so it was just revalved. Got 3700 miles (3100 miles as a 121" and 700 miles on my current version as a 136") on the 07 FX chassis and I have the orginal link! And I pound the piss out of it and it hasnt broke!! (Knock on wood, lol!!!)

Works real well in the whoop sections and is very compliant in the small stutters.

 

[cannondale27]

Front is independant until the rear hits the coupling blocks. Ask any Yamaha tech or engineer. Yea they both may show some movement when you hit small stutters. But that is because they are both bolted to the same 121" one piece aluminum frame. And yes the rear does most of the work. That is why the rear shock has longer travel than the front. The suspension just doesnt go up, it pivots toward the rear.

What the shocks need is like terret stated. They need high and low speed compression with a rebound adjustment. And I had my dear motocross suspension boys at pro circuit do mine (and no that dont do this for the general public). I have high and low speed adjustment on the rear shock. The front doesnt travel that much, so it was just revalved. Got 3700 miles (3100 miles as a 121" and 700 miles on my current version as a 136") on the 07 FX chassis and I have the orginal link! And I pound the piss out of it and it hasnt broke!! (Knock on wood, lol!!!)

Works real well in the whoop sections and is very compliant in the small stutters.

I agree coupling is where it really moves alot but why not just look at your suspension the "link" is what causes BOTH shocks to move before coupling.If someone has a link handy with some simple measurements and algebra you will find that the rear shock is forced to move more than the front all the time.That link is what makes both compression and rebound so important on the rear shock since alot of the upward travel at front of skid is controlled by the rebound circuit of the rear shock.
I am very happy with my suspension.Very plush and takes huge jumps and hits.I may see some improvement with staging the valving but my Custom Axis rear shock is not staged valving.But it works awesome?

 

[cannondale27]

Canondale in my opinion and my close friend who has raced pro snow x for ten years the rear shock does near all of the work on the rear end of the sled and I back you 100%. cheers

Thank You!Now if we can just convince EVERYONE to at least get the rear shock revalved or new I bet would be alot more happy Phazer owners.Do need to be careful though since Yamaha has actually been tweaking valving on some shocks.Have heard great things about new Monoshock sleds.You never know 2009 or 10 might have good stock shocks?

 

[woolyviper]

HyGear.I have it on mine couldnt tell any difference from stock cheapo steel shock with stock spring or now rebuildable Viper shock with stock spring and now Hygear spring.Would like to try the Polaris spring a few have talked about.

have you tried an rx-1 dual rate spring?