
kviper
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I talked to a friend yesterday that was also very disappointed with his tuner's for the same reason's. He than bought a set of Tracker's and after trying them he gave his tuner's away.
The SnowTracker's require one hole to be drilled in each ski, set toe to 0 and you are done with the guess work. you will experience 0 Darting/tracking and it will turn easy and when and where you want it with no I'll effect's. As I have stated in here before, the Tracker's are the best money I have ever spen't for an accessory, Period.
The SnowTracker's require one hole to be drilled in each ski, set toe to 0 and you are done with the guess work. you will experience 0 Darting/tracking and it will turn easy and when and where you want it with no I'll effect's. As I have stated in here before, the Tracker's are the best money I have ever spen't for an accessory, Period.
Chasx7
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Marq,
I am having the same problem you are. I am out of snow now and have put my sled away so no more adjustments for me until next season. Try putting your transfer to minimum. That would be my next adjustment. I just bought a set of trackers but am not giving up on the tuners. There is something simple we are missing.
I am having the same problem you are. I am out of snow now and have put my sled away so no more adjustments for me until next season. Try putting your transfer to minimum. That would be my next adjustment. I just bought a set of trackers but am not giving up on the tuners. There is something simple we are missing.
KevinS
Expert
Chasx7 said:Marq,
I am having the same problem you are. I am out of snow now and have put my sled away so no more adjustments for me until next season. Try putting your transfer to minimum. That would be my next adjustment. I just bought a set of trackers but am not giving up on the tuners. There is something simple we are missing.
What do you have for carbides on the tuners? I am running 6" on the outside and just a wearbar on the inside. I have the GT GYTR shocks and springs on my front end and have them all the way loose. The compression and rebound in the middle. I am also running the stock swaybar.


Sasquatch
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KevinS said:Chasx7 said:Marq,
I am having the same problem you are. I am out of snow now and have put my sled away so no more adjustments for me until next season. Try putting your transfer to minimum. That would be my next adjustment. I just bought a set of trackers but am not giving up on the tuners. There is something simple we are missing.
What do you have for carbides on the tuners? I am running 6" on the outside and just a wearbar on the inside. I have the GT GYTR shocks and springs on my front end and have them all the way loose. The compression and rebound in the middle. I am also running the stock swaybar.
You have your carbide on the wrong side per Yamahas recomended carbide setups. Most people I know with trackers are running 4 and 0 with the 4 on the inside. Couple I have talked to did not like 4 and 0 and went to 4 and 2. Longer carbide to the inside always. One guy is running 6 and 4 as a combo.
Try swapping your 6 inch carbide to the inside.
Chasx7
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I've run 6 inside and 4 outside and 4 inside and 2 outside. The sled turns great but darts. I have run shims and it is better but no one is running shims on the tuners. As I said my next move is to take my transfer all the way to minimum per talking to Bluebullet. It's on my list for next year. The next would be letting limiter strap out one hole.
KevinS
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Sasquatch said:You have your carbide on the wrong side per Yamahas recomended carbide setups. Most people I know with trackers are running 4 and 0 with the 4 on the inside. Couple I have talked to did not like 4 and 0 and went to 4 and 2. Longer carbide to the inside always. One guy is running 6 and 4 as a combo.
Try swapping your 6 inch carbide to the inside.
Sorry,
I was going on memory but was incorrect. I mounted them as per Yamaha's guidelines. I put the carbide on the inside and wearbar on the outside.
Kevin

kviper
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There is no suspendtion set up or change that will completely solve your problem, it may help but than you are changing a lot of setings that will effect ride and handling in other ways and in the end you will still be darting and if you think they are bad now just follow another dual keel ski. Letting limiter strap out will do nothing for darting but many have pulled the strap up one hole to help with slide wear. Going to minimum on transfer will keep the front planted tighter and will also give you a harsher ride and no transfer for drag racing if you do any of that. My point is you are willing to make all kinds of sacrafices to eliminate darting/tracking. I know there are some that will disagree but in my opinion aftermarket ski's are a huge waste of money unless you need to go wider for floatation. I have spent a lot of time and money in this area as well and finally found something that works with out sacrifice. Tracker's, no shims, toe to 0, done!
wpgwarrior
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what a fair price for snowtrackers?? anybody know where the best deal is?? 


kviper
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I usually get mine through Royal Distributors, should be able to google them. I think my last pair were $220 ish with shipping. There was some on EBay for $149 but they were for pre 2011.
marq
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KevinS said:Chasx7 said:Marq,
I am having the same problem you are. I am out of snow now and have put my sled away so no more adjustments for me until next season. Try putting your transfer to minimum. That would be my next adjustment. I just bought a set of trackers but am not giving up on the tuners. There is something simple we are missing.
What do you have for carbides on the tuners? I am running 6" on the outside and just a wearbar on the inside. I have the GT GYTR shocks and springs on my front end and have them all the way loose. The compression and rebound in the middle. I am also running the stock swaybar.
I'm running 4 inch on the inside, 2 inch on the outside with transfer set to the middle or slightly more, but not to full transfer. I'm running the ice ripper 121 inch track. Fox floats up front.
I checked the Yamaha Canada website today and I see they are now showing Snow Trackers for the Tuner ski????

kviper
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LOL, Aparently the tuner's don't solve anything if they need the Tracker's. Save the price of the ski's and just buy the Tracker's. Than you won't have the top end and MPG loss of the dual keel ski.icon said:I checked the Yamaha Canada website today and I see they are now showing Snow Trackers for the Tuner ski????


Sasquatch
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icon said:I checked the Yamaha Canada website today and I see they are now showing Snow Trackers for the Tuner ski????
Not the same! Just a taller more agressive carbide to stop push!


Sasquatch
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kviper said:There is no suspendtion set up or change that will completely solve your problem, it may help but than you are changing a lot of setings that will effect ride and handling in other ways and in the end you will still be darting and if you think they are bad now just follow another dual keel ski. Letting limiter strap out will do nothing for darting but many have pulled the strap up one hole to help with slide wear. Going to minimum on transfer will keep the front planted tighter and will also give you a harsher ride and no transfer for drag racing if you do any of that. My point is you are willing to make all kinds of sacrafices to eliminate darting/tracking. I know there are some that will disagree but in my opinion aftermarket ski's are a huge waste of money unless you need to go wider for floatation. I have spent a lot of time and money in this area as well and finally found something that works with out sacrifice. Tracker's, no shims, toe to 0, done!
Tuner skis work best on the Nytro's. Having said that I have rode with a couple Apex guys with tuners and they love them! They both run 4 and 2.
I think the biggest problem is people think that a sled should run like a car down the road. Maybe trackers can do that! But the reality is all skis dart and track! The degree that they do this is the differance! That is based hugely on trail or better said snow conditions. Some days my sled tracks most it does not. It has been like this with stock skis and aftermarket skis. Shimming the skis is the best way to improve handling I have ever found. Get the weight off the front of the carbide and transfer it to the center/rear of the carbide. Might still track but it will pull out of it way easier with little effort.
As the stock Yami skis have zero floatation I have moved over to aftermarket skis and can not try the trackers so I do not know anything about them. My Curves are worn to the point (10,000 miles) I'm thinking of replacing them. Yami mountin skis with trakers might be the next setup if I can figure out which will fit my Apex XTX!


Sasquatch
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