new rob
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I'm not totally satisfied with the tuners and thinking of snow trackers for next season . Would semis or the aggressives be best for 2011 apex se ???

kviper
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That's hard for someone else to say. If you ride real aggressive get the extreme's. I think the semi's bite as good as any normal wear bar and I wouldn't go extreme's unless you need them. That's the best I can tell you.

baggs66
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I would check your front end bushings if you have over 2000 miles on stock bushings they are shot and will cause a lot of darting. Duel runner skis shouldn't dart much if toe set correctly 0 to 1/4" Max toe out with bungy holding ski tips together. I run the pilot skis and have had good luck much easier to turn and only dart when real hard conditions hold ski up on center runner, slimjims work pretty good on stock skis but do push some if you ride aggressive.
marq
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I got a chance to verify my ski alignment and go for a ride today, this is what I encountered:
Alignment was way off. One ski was toed in 1/8" and the other was toed out about 3/8". I attribute this to some cartwheeling my sled has done in the past. I did a 10-12 mile trip on a not recently groomed rail bed in semi soft conditions with multiple ski tracks. Temps were about 20F. I did not experience any darting until I was below 5mph coming up to stop signs, otherwise the sled ran straight and where I wanted it. I could ride it one handed at 65-70 mph if I wanted. The next test will be to run it on hard pack. I plan to ride tomorrow morning but I might not get a true test until next season. Right now I feel pretty happy with the Tuners but not totally convinced yet. If they run true on hard pack I'll keep them, otherwise I'm getting Snowtrackers.
2006 Apex RTX
Fox Floats @ 85psi
Mono sprint set to stiff, dial set to middle
Transfer in the middle
Limiter strap set one hole tighter than stock.
Alignment was way off. One ski was toed in 1/8" and the other was toed out about 3/8". I attribute this to some cartwheeling my sled has done in the past. I did a 10-12 mile trip on a not recently groomed rail bed in semi soft conditions with multiple ski tracks. Temps were about 20F. I did not experience any darting until I was below 5mph coming up to stop signs, otherwise the sled ran straight and where I wanted it. I could ride it one handed at 65-70 mph if I wanted. The next test will be to run it on hard pack. I plan to ride tomorrow morning but I might not get a true test until next season. Right now I feel pretty happy with the Tuners but not totally convinced yet. If they run true on hard pack I'll keep them, otherwise I'm getting Snowtrackers.
2006 Apex RTX
Fox Floats @ 85psi
Mono sprint set to stiff, dial set to middle
Transfer in the middle
Limiter strap set one hole tighter than stock.
marq
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Oh, forgot to mention.. My sled has been apart to replace donuts and busted headers. While the sled was apart I shaved down the steering blocks to remove most of the excess play I've had in the steering. I'm not sure what impact this had but just about every Apex I've seen has a ton of slop in the steering.
number1kyster
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What is the proper procedure for checking the toe in the skis?
marq
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Somebody else might chime in with a better explanation. I didn't see a lot of the action. I sat on the sled and kept the handle bars straight while my dad did the adjustments.
Run a straight edge along your track, under the body and past the ski tips. We used a piece of lumber. Measure the back of the ski to the straight edge and measure from the front of the ski. I'm not sure where the best spots are for measurement, I think it's more important to just be consistent. Taking the two measurements will determine your toe in or out. Do the same measurements for the other ski.
Loosen the nut on the sway bar and then remove the bolt on the end of the sway bar that connects to the ski. You can twist the eye bolt in or out depending on which way you need to go. Twisting the bolt "in" to the sway bar will create a larger toe out, twisting the bolt "out" will create a zero toe or eventually a toe in.
Run a straight edge along your track, under the body and past the ski tips. We used a piece of lumber. Measure the back of the ski to the straight edge and measure from the front of the ski. I'm not sure where the best spots are for measurement, I think it's more important to just be consistent. Taking the two measurements will determine your toe in or out. Do the same measurements for the other ski.
Loosen the nut on the sway bar and then remove the bolt on the end of the sway bar that connects to the ski. You can twist the eye bolt in or out depending on which way you need to go. Twisting the bolt "in" to the sway bar will create a larger toe out, twisting the bolt "out" will create a zero toe or eventually a toe in.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
marq said:Somebody else might chime in with a better explanation. I didn't see a lot of the action. I sat on the sled and kept the handle bars straight while my dad did the adjustments.
Run a straight edge along your track, under the body and past the ski tips. We used a piece of lumber. Measure the back of the ski to the straight edge and measure from the front of the ski. I'm not sure where the best spots are for measurement, I think it's more important to just be consistent. Taking the two measurements will determine your toe in or out. Do the same measurements for the other ski.
Loosen the nut on the sway bar and then remove the bolt on the end of the sway bar that connects to the ski. You can twist the eye bolt in or out depending on which way you need to go. Twisting the bolt "in" to the sway bar will create a larger toe out, twisting the bolt "out" will create a zero toe or eventually a toe in.
The best way to check toe as well imo, but just be sure your track is perfectly centred/aligned first.



Bluebullet
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Marq, That's pretty much the way I do it also. Yes, it it hard to find a common point on the tuner, I use a couple points and stay consistent on each ski. You got it! should see an improvement. something of note: there are locking nuts inside your body down low in front of the engine,( same as outside) check them for locking and secure as mine loosened up and sled just wouldn't stay aligned. if all right now, check when you have it torn down and opened to do next years oil change. I have added this to my preseason checks.
Blue



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monte1214
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I came off of an '08 LTX GT Apex that had stock skis with the Semi Agressive Snowtrackers and that sled railed! I was really impressed!!!
I got to take my '11 Apex XTX out for the 1st time yesterday, and it's bone stock. Even with the PS, she was darting and hunting.
I've got the Tuner's, (4 & 6) but haven't put them on yet.
I'll be trying them next year, and comparing them to the stock skis with Snowtrackers.
From what I read, the Tuner's are the way to go, but at least I'll have the stock skis/snowtrackers as back up.
I got to take my '11 Apex XTX out for the 1st time yesterday, and it's bone stock. Even with the PS, she was darting and hunting.
I've got the Tuner's, (4 & 6) but haven't put them on yet.
I'll be trying them next year, and comparing them to the stock skis with Snowtrackers.
From what I read, the Tuner's are the way to go, but at least I'll have the stock skis/snowtrackers as back up.

lockburner2000
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I am not having luck with the tuners. They dart bad. Handle well in a corner. I had snowtrackers and they are the best to stop darting i have found. I will go back to them. I did not get many miles out of the trackers. But it was a poor last year so i will give them another try as you can drive one handed with them.

kviper
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There are a number of us in our group that have Tracker's with excellent wear. I have gotten 6K out of them and a friend now has I think around 4K and they still look good (agressive's).
I do have another friend that had the semiagressive's that had wear problem's but he thought it had to do with having a M20 and the rear of the sled being very high loading the front of the ski.
How many MI did you get out of them?
I do have another friend that had the semiagressive's that had wear problem's but he thought it had to do with having a M20 and the rear of the sled being very high loading the front of the ski.
How many MI did you get out of them?

lockburner2000
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I had them on for 2000 miles but that was to long as i wore them to far and wore out the corrector blades.
I have the limit strap in the original holes and the front springs set with no preload. It was a poor year last year and might have been the biggest reason. I did get 3200 miles out of my slides so i was in good snow but i think they were going through the poor snow pack because there was not a good pack on the trails.
I had the aggressive trackers on also.
I have the limit strap in the original holes and the front springs set with no preload. It was a poor year last year and might have been the biggest reason. I did get 3200 miles out of my slides so i was in good snow but i think they were going through the poor snow pack because there was not a good pack on the trails.
I had the aggressive trackers on also.

kviper
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Well they sure have been better than that for us but for the Control and confidence they give I would pay the price every 2K if I had to.lockburner2000 said:I had them on for 2000 miles but that was to long as i wore them to far and wore out the corrector blades.
I have the limit strap in the original holes and the front springs set with no preload. It was a poor year last year and might have been the biggest reason. I did get 3200 miles out of my slides so i was in good snow but i think they were going through the poor snow pack because there was not a good pack on the trails.
I had the aggressive trackers on also.

lockburner2000
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Here is what they look like so they were more then likely bad at 1500 miles.
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