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EFI kit for Rx-1's?

Neonblue

Newbie
Joined
Aug 17, 2006
Messages
9
I've got an aftermarket EFI kit on my yamaha motorcycle (used to be carberated), is there one available for the RX-1 as well?

I'm getting an 04 RX-1 in a week. It looks like it's been tuned pretty well, but I'm sure I'll have to mod it for my height/weight (6'3"/220lbs). Will the stock springs in the back be sufficient for my weight or will I need to look at upgrading? How much will I be able to adjust the handle bars (so I can get my long legs under them)?

I'm really excited to jump into a 4 cycle. Any other suggestions for things I should do pre-season?
 

Don't mess with EFI. Those are the most advanced carbs anywhere, and there is NOTHING to be gained with EFI, except chokeless starting, which is hardly a major problem.

As for the rear skid.... you won't be needing any other springs. You would only need one for 05+. For suspension adjustment, start with the FRA (full rate adjuster) set to MAXIMUM, preload on MINIMUM, transfer on HALFWAY. Now start bumping the preload up until the transfer rod gap is about 50/50 with you sitting on it. Now adjust the transfer to MINIMUM. From here, you need trails to adjust. When you can ride it, set the STRAPS to precisely the point where it plants the skis in the snow AS HARD AS YOU will EVER want it (make it drive kinda like a bulldozer), and now you can easily adjust ski pressure by adjusting the transfer rods.
 
I was doing some more reading about the Rx1 and found someone talking about a bearing that needs to be replaced with a locked bearing... Which bearing is this?
 
It is the Jackshaft bearing on the clucth side but since yours is an 04 it already has the updated bearing collar.
 
I wouldn't exactly call CV carbs the most advanced. They are pretty much as simple of a design as you can get. Harleys have used them for years.
 
Convert said:
LB you forgot to mention throttle response when i rode the Apex's that was the most significant noticable difference.

I assume you mean the apex has much greater throttle response. While I agree with LB about performance when properly tuned, I would rather have the EFI. I would think the mountain guys (and gals) would like the EFI for more consistent performance, and less chance of fuel starvation. I would consider swapping to EFI myself.
 
I'd rather have EFI as well. However, I will wait till I get a factory EFI sled.
 
Mongo 1 said:
Convert said:
LB you forgot to mention throttle response when i rode the Apex's that was the most significant noticable difference.

I assume you mean the apex has much greater throttle response. While I agree with LB about performance when properly tuned, I would rather have the EFI. I would think the mountain guys (and gals) would like the EFI for more consistent performance, and less chance of fuel starvation. I would consider swapping to EFI myself.

Actually, once boost is added to the sled; tuning the FI (in its infancy) was more baffeling than the Carb version. I dialed my jetting set @ 5# boost in Dec. Once adjusted, I turned up the boost to 10# and never touched the jets all season. I have ridden in temps from mid 30s to -20s and an elevation swing of 5370' at the house to 10,400'+ on top of Beartooth Pass. My A/F meter is consistantly within .2 through these different conditions at idle through WFO.

I believe this is because the carbs are pressurized by the "hair dryer" to regulate the fuel feed through the jets in addition to the air hose that goes to the regulator on the electric fuel pumps. As my boost changes due to effects of air density; the air pressure in the carbs bowls that forces the fuel through the jets is affected the same. In their infancy early last season; the FI kits relied on a manual controller. Alot of the guys running FI had to constantly adjust the mapping to suite the changes in climate/air density conditions. Now the boost companies have designed controllers that react on their own to these changes.

Jim
 
Neonblue said:
I was doing some more reading about the Rx1 and found someone talking about a bearing that needs to be replaced with a locked bearing... Which bearing is this?

It is also the drive axle bearing on the PTO side. This bearing failure can cause a real headache too - $$$. I lost my speedometer pickup, and gear, plus it wrecked that stamped housing, the race siezed to the shaft, and since I had no choice but to ride it out, I ended up overhauling the chaincase as a preventive measure - $$$

Check-it lube-it and/or replace it each season.
 


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