mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Len Todd said:Direct to the Battery with a fuse as close to the battery as possible.
I am not an expert when it comes to wiring. Why should the fuse be close to the battery?
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
If a short occurs between the fuse and battery, you will have a mess. Consequently, you minimize the amount of unprotected wire by putting the fuse as close to the battery as possible.
hemiram
Extreme
NytroFIB
Extreme
Hey Guys,
I just installed a heated shield plug that came with my Scorpion EXO shield kit.
I ran it directly to the battery pos and neg and attached the ring terminals right on the battery.
Do you think I should put a fuse in somewhere?
It didnt come with one, and has the rings on the end of the wires, so it doesnt seem like they find one necessary on the setup.
The wire is so small, Im not sure what I would use for a fuse if I add one.
What do you all think.
Thanks
FIB
I just installed a heated shield plug that came with my Scorpion EXO shield kit.
I ran it directly to the battery pos and neg and attached the ring terminals right on the battery.
Do you think I should put a fuse in somewhere?
It didnt come with one, and has the rings on the end of the wires, so it doesnt seem like they find one necessary on the setup.
The wire is so small, Im not sure what I would use for a fuse if I add one.
What do you all think.
Thanks
FIB
favarcat
Expert
NytroFIB said:Hey Guys,
I just installed a heated shield plug that came with my Scorpion EXO shield kit.
I ran it directly to the battery pos and neg and attached the ring terminals right on the battery.
Do you think I should put a fuse in somewhere?
It didnt come with one, and has the rings on the end of the wires, so it doesnt seem like they find one necessary on the setup.
The wire is so small, Im not sure what I would use for a fuse if I add one.
What do you all think.
Thanks
FIB
That is how I did mine last year with the HJC wires, only directly to the extended battery leads. No problems with 4300 miles.
hayastusa
Pro
Installed my HJC directly to the battery posts as well on both my wifes Arctic Cat (4 seasons) and my Attak 4000ks, no problems. One would think if a fuse was necessary they would have one inline.

Bigger Hammer
Extreme
I would put a fuse inline, close to the battery. Just because it dosn't come with a fuse, doesn't mean you don't need one. I have purchased HJC installation kits that have instructions to wire into the rear light, which is already fused. For the couple of bucks and few minutes it takes to add a fuse, the protection is well worth it. I will get really nasty if you ever get a short anywhere as the wires will melt down, maybe even catch fire.
stealth800
Extreme
Like Big Hammer said, You need to have a fuse. The bad thing about wiring directly to the battery with no fuse is that a short could happen at anytime and potentially cause a fire, this could happen in your trailer, garage, on the trail. Atleast if you wired to a source on the sled already like the headlight or tail lamp it is already protected by the sled's fuses. I feel better having it hooked up to a source that is only powered up with the sled running. There are too many places on sleds where wiring can rub and become chaffed. I also like to run my wires inside that corregated wiring protector tubing that you can by at autoparts stores. It might be overkill but atleast I know I did my best to prevent a problem.
Iceman57
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Just tap into the auxiliary power outlet power and ground wires and run the shield cord up the riser with the other cables and harnesses. This way you are using the existing fuse for the aux. outlet and you don't have to run the wire very far.
Mighty
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I tried this last year and it kept blowing the fuse. Ended up tapping into the headlight circuit like I did on my Warrior and RX-1.mrance111 said:Just tap into the auxiliary power outlet power and ground wires and run the shield cord up the riser with the other cables and harnesses. This way you are using the existing fuse for the aux. outlet and you don't have to run the wire very far.
Iceman57
TY 4 Stroke Guru
MightyAttak said:I tried this last year and it kept blowing the fuse. Ended up tapping into the headlight circuit like I did on my Warrior and RX-1.mrance111 said:Just tap into the auxiliary power outlet power and ground wires and run the shield cord up the riser with the other cables and harnesses. This way you are using the existing fuse for the aux. outlet and you don't have to run the wire very far.
That shouldn't be a problem because Yamaha makes a heated shield adapter that plugs into that auxillary outlet.
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/appar ... etail.aspx
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trailnazi
Extreme
Just wondering how long i would be able to sit and have a break with the engine off and the visor still powered, before i would get low on power.


**sj**
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it draws low wattage...as I recall like 5?
It will be okay for some time...although it might be fine I see no reason to keep it lit for hours
It will be okay for some time...although it might be fine I see no reason to keep it lit for hours
snomobubl
Extreme
I agree with T-Bones reply above as I did it the same way. I dismantled female part of accessory plug for cig lighter adapter (easy to do with tiny screwdriver). It is the white plastic connector plug located below panel that cig adapter mounts to. Dismantle, wrap wires around base of metal plug leads, snap back together and youre there!
No splicing required. The circuit is already protected with a fuse.
Call me if you have questions
Rich 630-406-7690


Call me if you have questions
Rich 630-406-7690


**sj**
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the circuit is only protected to 3a and others have blown fuses this way..especially if you use the outlet also for a gps etc. and shield at same time..
one wire to batt with fuse in line next to and a ground wire ....nice constant current ...protects your item plugged in and your sled
one wire to batt with fuse in line next to and a ground wire ....nice constant current ...protects your item plugged in and your sled
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