Electronic Ohlins Question

[07 GT]

I just had my shock rebuilt by carver for my 07 GT. I got the skid put back in and the wiring routed correctly. I started the sled and adjusted the shock and everything appeared to be good. From soft to firm was a pretty good difference. I had the shock revalved too.

I went to adjust the shock tonite and its seems like its not doing much now. It worked fine last night. No oil leakage or anything. The shock indicator on the pod goes up and down when you adjust it.

Weird. I haven't even rode it yet. Am I missing something here?

 

[87gtNOS]

hmmm
I just installed one in my 06 RTX. It was used and I had it rebuilt and valved for me.

All the sleds come pre-wired for them, so it was simple plug and play.
My dash recognized it and the gauge goes up and down.

However, I do not experience anything like soft or hard when I compress the rear end.

Opinions vary on this....some think you can feel it, others say you don't? Could it be my valving and transfer rod settings?

I spoke to Shocktec.ca and he said the servo is silent and the movement is so little of the valve, that you wouldn't feel it.

I don't know??

 

[Super Sled]

Stock, I don't think you can feel it and you can't hear it -- it's silent. I've hear people on here say after a Carver or Pioneer re-valve they can feel the difference from hard to soft.....

But I spoke to Carver about a revalve or new spring (he's a straight shooter -- in my circumstance he advised against either for the time being.....) and he said you can't physically feel a difference as it adjusts, but out on the trail you can probably feel a difference at speed out on the bumps......

Make sense????? Clear as mud?????? That's how I felt!

Mike

 

[Fusion]

It is my understanding, after talking to many sources on this, you do not feel it just sitting and adjusting the selector up and down. You do not feel the difference except in bump damping, on the trail. There is virtually no way of knowing if this is functional unless you are on the trail and you don't feel a difference by just jumping up and down on it in the garage. Just my 2 cents. I'd like to have someone explain it to me better from a techincal point of view.

 

[Alatalo]

Since the damping of the shock absorber is velocity sensitive and not position sensitive, you will feel absolutely no difference when just sitting down adjusting a sled that is standing still. Simply put, the shock absorber does not produce any damping at all until the shock absorber is being compressed or extended at a certain velocity. Also, I doubt that you will feel much of a difference when compressing the skid by pushing the rear bumper down. This is usually creating a shock absorber velocity that is too low to notice much of a difference.
Furthermore, some service centers claim that their revalve increases the adjustment range of the electronic valve. This is nothing but bullshite. The electronic valve is impossible to open or modify without destroying it and it works only on the oil volume displaced by the piston shaft that goes into the shock absorber. Thus, unless the service center supplies a bigger piston shaft or an ECU with bigger power output, the adjustment range is always the same...

 

[Fusion]

Since the damping of the shock absorber is velocity sensitive and not position sensitive, you will feel absolutely no difference when just sitting down adjusting a sled that is standing still. Simply put, the shock absorber does not produce any damping at all until the shock absorber is being compressed or extended at a certain velocity. Also, I doubt that you will feel much of a difference when compressing the skid by pushing the rear bumper down. This is usually creating a shock absorber velocity that is too low to notice much of a difference.
Furthermore, some service centers claim that their revalve increases the adjustment range of the electronic valve. This is nothing but bullshite. The electronic valve is impossible to open or modify without destroying it and it works only on the oil volume displaced by the piston shaft that goes into the shock absorber. Thus, unless the service center supplies a bigger piston shaft or an ECU with bigger power output, the adjustment range is always the same...

Nice description, all the way from Sweden.

How are things in Sweden, from a weather point of view? 59 degree's, no wind, and overcast today, here in southern WI, USA.

 

[sgilbert]

I sent mine to pioneer and got the fatboy spring and revalve that is supposed to make the adjustments more noticable and less bottoming. funny though, although the machine is sitting here and haven't ridden it since, never thought to jump up and down on it playing with buttons to see how it rides. I have a brand new xtx with 0mi sitting next to the apex and reminds me of countless threads on people judging/nit picking about not topping out after compressing sitting there in garage. as far as I'm concerned, if you haven't ridden it, we have nothing to talk about. picture mike carver jumping up and down on a sled on a trailer to see how it rides

 

[Alatalo]

revalve that is supposed to make the adjustments more noticable and less bottoming

Are they actually advertising that...?

The oil volume displaced by the piston shaft (that is entering the shock absorber on a compression stroke) flows out of the main body and into the reservoir. On the way to the reservoir, the oil has to flow through the restriction created by the adjustable EC valve. This restriction is creating compression damping. The size of this restriction is determining the amount of compression damping. The size of this restriction is basically what you are adjusting from the handlebars.
The compression damping created by the adjustable EC valve is directly additional but in no way related to the compression damping created in the main valve attached to the piston rod. Simply put, changing the main valve does not affect the compression damping output and thus the adjustment range of the adjustable EC valve. The only way to change the compression damping output and thus the adjustment range of the adjustable EC valve is to tweak the EC valve itself (impossible without destruction), change the piston rod diameter or change the power output of the snowmobile ECU. Otherwise you will get ZERO change in damping output and adjustment range.

However, a bigger adjustment range and "more noticeable" is not necessarily the same thing. By making the main valve softer you would create a shock absorber with lower level of total compression damping, thus making the (still constant) adjustment range of the EC valve percentually bigger in relation to the total compression damping. This could very well be perceived as "more noticeable", but this would also be impossible if it is supposed to create "less bottoming".

 

[sgilbert]

the less bottoming is due to the fatboy spring and I'm sure it also has to due with feeling adjustment more noticable. haven't ridden it since, so don't know first hand and was actually making light of how some people insist on messing/judging suspension sitting there on the floor. I've had customers argue blue in the face that it needs to be topped out all the time to the point where I put bigger spring blocks in to satisfy them. they dont know or care how it rides, as long as it tops out, might as well weld brackets in to make it rigid

 

[snowbeast]

the less bottoming is due to the fatboy spring and I'm sure it also has to due with feeling adjustment more noticable. haven't ridden it since, so don't know first hand and was actually making light of how some people insist on messing/judging suspension sitting there on the floor. I've had customers argue blue in the face that it needs to be topped out all the time to the point where I put bigger spring blocks in to satisfy them. they dont know or care how it rides, as long as it tops out, might as well weld brackets in to make it rigid

Be very careful with big boy springs,if you really dont need one,the spring is primarilly for sag or ride height,it does effect the stutters alot,if you over sprung your sled and did not valve it properly,or did not valve it at all,alot of us think the bigger spring stops the big g-out bottoming when dropping into those lg. holes,it does not stop it from sending your spine crying when you hit those big ones,its the valving that stops most of that,the spring does help a little,but if its to big,its way worse,just a heads up,i have used heavy springs alot in the past,with little help from them.

 

[yves F 7]

i was once told that if the indicator in your cluster goes up and down,the wiring is ok so it's probably fine,wait and try it on your first ride