Engine Break-in

[Superfletch]

I have built and broke in dozens and dozens of Yamaha R6 and R1 race motors. Some brand new and some rebuilds. I would heat cycle them twice (warm up to operating temp and let cool completely down) and put them on my dyno and go. They would then go to the race track and be raced with no failures (except a broken crank on an 06) in 12 years. Motors nowdays are already heat forged and easy break in is meant for muscle cars. Leting your engine warm up and frequent oil changes, especially the first after a few hundred miles, are the most important. In fact I believe a harder breaking, meaning full throttle acceleration runs, not holding it at WOT topped out, actually seats the rings better with higher cylinder pressures. This is all my opinion of course .

 

[Mooseman]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[freelance]

If I'm fortunate I should have it broken in by the book on the first ride. If not, by the second ride for sure. It only took me 2 rides to break in my '11 Cat and the full break-in period for that machine was 600 miles.

 

[wot-75]

Leting your engine warm up and frequent oil changes, especially the first after a few hundred miles, are the most important. In fact I believe a harder breaking, meaning full throttle acceleration runs, not holding it at WOT topped out, actually seats the rings better with higher cylinder pressures. This is all my opinion of course .

X2!

 

[dilligaf]

Follow what the manufacture says. These are not dumb people who design these sleds. You're breaking in more than just the engine. You just spent a ton of money on this sled, why not take a little time and break it in right? The 'ride it like you stole it' break in rule some have is one reason why I only buy new now.

Enjoy your new sled!!!

 

[skidooslayer687]

I have built and broke in dozens and dozens of Yamaha R6 and R1 race motors. Some brand new and some rebuilds. I would heat cycle them twice (warm up to operating temp and let cool completely down) and put them on my dyno and go. They would then go to the race track and be raced with no failures (except a broken crank on an 06) in 12 years. Motors nowdays are already heat forged and easy break in is meant for muscle cars. Leting your engine warm up and frequent oil changes, especially the first after a few hundred miles, are the most important. In fact I believe a harder breaking, meaning full throttle acceleration runs, not holding it at WOT topped out, actually seats the rings better with higher cylinder pressures. This is all my opinion of course .

I'm with you on this as well, heat cycle then giver!

 

[wot-75]

Follow what the manufacture says. These are not dumb people who design these sleds. You're breaking in more than just the engine. You just spent a ton of money on this sled, why not take a little time and break it in right? The 'ride it like you stole it' break in rule some have is one reason why I only buy new now.

Enjoy your new sled!!!

The conservative OEM break in procedure exists because they can't tell you to go ride it like a raped ape. Their lawyers would have none of that. Anyway, do some research on 4 stroke break in and it's pretty obvious they respond well to dyno style break in procedures. Steady throttle for long periods of time is the big no no, not rev range peaks.

 

[Superfletch]

My only reason for heat cycles is to "wash or flush" out the bigger chunks of initial metal pieces before adding alot of crank beiring load and forcing metal to be imbedded. I do not believe 2 cycles will be detrimental to a good hard ring seating. Now 10 cycle might be, lol.

 

[Studroes144]

Just did my second heat cycle. Next time my viper gets started it's gonna be making some passes down the field

 

[dilligaf]

Follow what the manufacture says. These are not dumb people who design these sleds. You're breaking in more than just the engine. You just spent a ton of money on this sled, why not take a little time and break it in right? The 'ride it like you stole it' break in rule some have is one reason why I only buy new now.

Enjoy your new sled!!!

The conservative OEM break in procedure exists because they can't tell you to go ride it like a raped ape. Their lawyers would have none of that. Anyway, do some research on 4 stroke break in and it's pretty obvious they respond well to dyno style break in procedures. Steady throttle for long periods of time is the big no no, not rev range peaks.

My point is don't ride it like you stole it. Done my share of research! Work for Cummins and design controls for the engines, gives me a little insight!!

 

[Frozenstiff]

Take the time to read what is in the link that Mooseman posted. If you want a fast one, drive it hard, from the get go. If you drive like a granny, do what the owners manual tells you.

 

[bleedyamaha]

heat cycle

Just did my second heat cycle. Next time my viper gets started it's gonna be making some passes down the field

Studroe maybe I missed it can you explain to me what you did in your heat cycles to break in your Viper?

 

[Studroes144]

First one was done by the dealer second by me. Let the sled warm up til the fan kicked on, roughly 195 degrees. Then shut it down and let it cool back down completely. Sled was up on a stand so we were running it some so it didn't just sit at idle for 5 mins.

 

[Alpha]

A piston gas engine no matter the make is a piston engine and break in is pretty much the same.

As with my 800+ hp supra and all of my other high HP cars and toys I always let the engine idle and warm up before its driven. ( this is always not just break in) When its warm I also take it easy for the forst few miles to let all the parts come up in temp before I get heavy on the gas. With a new engine I would not hold it at redline across the lake or field for the first 500 miles or so.

Just take it easy on the throttle and go different speeds so the rpms fluctuate.

OIL!!! During initial break in all parts are new and they have seat. Proper break in will allow them to seat right. Because they are new you will get contaminants in the oil. It is very important to change the oil and filter at 500 miles.

Again Oil is the blood of the engine and I can not stress how important it is to run good oil and change it on a regular basis. Oil is also cheap insurance, its allot cheaper than a new engine. In my high performance cars I change the oil every 500-100 miles depending on how hard I drive it. If I use it at the track or if the car goes on the dyno its changed immediately after.

On my sleds, atv's etc.. I like to change the oil around 500-1000 miles depending on how hard I ride. By doing this I have yet to blow a engine and I drive and ride hard.

 

[1049triple]

I broke-in my '09 Nytro by the book procedure, and I had the fastest stock Nytro I know of. Even on high speed runs on the lake my freinds pre-2011 Apex's could not catch me.
I would break-in the Viper the same way since it's the same engine.