JeremyF6
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2007
- Messages
- 8
06 Apex gt- sled was running fine...pulled up to an intersection and stopped, sled stalls spedo says ER-1 and wouldnt start. Towed 12 miles to next intersection and turned the key and it fired right up? Any have any ideas what could cause this and what that error code means? Also if there are any tricks to get it to start when it does this....thanks for your input.
new06apexgt
Veteran
Drive Shaft Bearing
In my case it was a blown drive shaft bearing that took out the speedo sensor...
How many miles does yours have? Mine is 7600 currently.
In my case it was a blown drive shaft bearing that took out the speedo sensor...
How many miles does yours have? Mine is 7600 currently.
new06apexgt
Veteran
Well, looks like I am the latest casualty of Er-1 code. The wife and I took a vacation day and headed up north. Unload sleds, head down the trail life is good. About 10 miles later, ripping up a railroad bed, the motor starts to sputter then stalls/quits. Pull over to the side of the trail and restart the sled with no problem. Go to throttle up and the sled stalls. Repeat this sequence several times. Sled will idle, but will not run under load. Head back to the truck on the wifes Rev 500ss, shes not happy cussing Yammy. Pick up the truck and try to load the sled. Now the fuel pump won't cycle and the sled won't fire at all. Now I'm thinking faulty fuel pump relay switch. I just happen to have one in my jacket from reading this great site. Replace fuel relay switch, pump will not cycle. Replace with the old one and head home. Best 10 minute ride ever.
Pull into the driveway and try to start the sled again. This time the fuel pump cycles and the sled starts. I let it warm up and set the rear on a jack stand. I give it throttle and the sled stalls again. Just won't run under load. Restart and have the same thing happen several times.
I read the post about the broken speedo sensor. My sled was running fine, with no indication of a drive shaft bearing problem. Wouldn't the sled vibrate or you would hear when the bearing let go? Motor was running perfect then just quit. I will look at the bearing tomorrow, then report back.
I called a dealer up north to check the code for me. I remember reading it but could not remember what it meant. Er-1 is the ecu code. My first thought was I fryed the ecu with the handlebar fix. I made this repair last month and have logged 1,000 miles with no problems. I am going to guess this is not the problem and the drive shaft bearing problem. I will let you all know.
Pull into the driveway and try to start the sled again. This time the fuel pump cycles and the sled starts. I let it warm up and set the rear on a jack stand. I give it throttle and the sled stalls again. Just won't run under load. Restart and have the same thing happen several times.
I read the post about the broken speedo sensor. My sled was running fine, with no indication of a drive shaft bearing problem. Wouldn't the sled vibrate or you would hear when the bearing let go? Motor was running perfect then just quit. I will look at the bearing tomorrow, then report back.
I called a dealer up north to check the code for me. I remember reading it but could not remember what it meant. Er-1 is the ecu code. My first thought was I fryed the ecu with the handlebar fix. I made this repair last month and have logged 1,000 miles with no problems. I am going to guess this is not the problem and the drive shaft bearing problem. I will let you all know.
attakred06
Pro
try to find a clear.white connector under air box on main wiring harnest this is a ground for start fuel pump and other good luck bye
new06apexgt
Veteran
No warning when mine failed. Sled was running fine, speedo was working, Etc.
I'm betting its the drive shaft bearing/speed sensor. Simple enough to just look at the bearing/speed sensor below your secondary clutch and inspect for damage.
When I brought mine in the dealer orginally called me and said the reason my sled failed was because the oil level was off which triggered a code #30 and prevented it from running. I explained that I didn't see a code #30 but Err-1 instead. They told me all that means is I had one error stored and it would say Err-2 if 2 codes were logged...
Anyway after they checked it out closer and I sent them the details from posts on here they found the bad bearing/speed sensor.
How many miles are on yours? Mine had approx. 7600 when it failed.
I'm betting its the drive shaft bearing/speed sensor. Simple enough to just look at the bearing/speed sensor below your secondary clutch and inspect for damage.
When I brought mine in the dealer orginally called me and said the reason my sled failed was because the oil level was off which triggered a code #30 and prevented it from running. I explained that I didn't see a code #30 but Err-1 instead. They told me all that means is I had one error stored and it would say Err-2 if 2 codes were logged...
Anyway after they checked it out closer and I sent them the details from posts on here they found the bad bearing/speed sensor.
How many miles are on yours? Mine had approx. 7600 when it failed.
7,900 miles on the sled. Original driveshaft bearing. Greased and packed at the beginning of this year by the dealer. Where is the speed sensor located and what does it look like?
Did your fuel pump ever not cycle? Strange how sometimes the pump worked and other times it did not. Seems it would all or nothing.
Did your fuel pump ever not cycle? Strange how sometimes the pump worked and other times it did not. Seems it would all or nothing.
Update,
Just pulled off the secondary and sure enough, the drive axle bearing was toast. When the bearing failed, it chewed up the speedo sensor which resulted in the er-1 code.
Question, why do you have to pull the collar with the 2 set screws to remove the bearing? The collar is behind the bearing holding it in place. Shouldn't you just be able to pull the bearing off the drive shaft. It looks like that collar just holds the bearing in place, but are not connected to each other.
As usual, thanks for the great info. Otherwise I would still be trying to figure out why my sled quit and what this code means.
Just pulled off the secondary and sure enough, the drive axle bearing was toast. When the bearing failed, it chewed up the speedo sensor which resulted in the er-1 code.
Question, why do you have to pull the collar with the 2 set screws to remove the bearing? The collar is behind the bearing holding it in place. Shouldn't you just be able to pull the bearing off the drive shaft. It looks like that collar just holds the bearing in place, but are not connected to each other.
As usual, thanks for the great info. Otherwise I would still be trying to figure out why my sled quit and what this code means.
new06apexgt
Veteran
Glad we were able to help.
I had the dealer do the work so I'll have to defer to others on the set screw question but know from other posts it said to remove them.
FYI - My fuel pump was doing the same thing.
Mine was intermitent but seemed that as soon as you put weight on the suspension it would die out and if you gave it throttle it would die out.
I had the dealer do the work so I'll have to defer to others on the set screw question but know from other posts it said to remove them.
FYI - My fuel pump was doing the same thing.
Mine was intermitent but seemed that as soon as you put weight on the suspension it would die out and if you gave it throttle it would die out.
renegadeoffunk
Veteran
Ok just another lucky person to have the bearing crap out on me. Whats the best way to replace it? I have the metal shield off. Can see the bearing is toast. Whats my next step? Do I have to undo the bolt now to get that bearing off or???? something else??
renegadeoffunk
Veteran
renegadeoffunk said:
Searched a little more and answered my own question!!! This sites search function is pretty awesome. I use it ALOT!!!!
I needed a break anyways from riding so much this season!!
You have to remove both set screws to get the bearing off, it's one peice
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
rx1pat said:
The problem is that it was greased at the begining of this year, if you don't want to replace it every season you need to clean and repack it at the end of the season, of if the sled is going to sit for a month or two. The issue is the seasons over, you park the sled, the bearing has little grease left from the season, water is also in the bearing from snow and ice and just general moisture. The water settles to the bottom of the bearing and begins the rusting process. You then run your sled, mixing the rust and grease, then decide to clean and regrease the bearing. The areas than rusted are pitted and create a hot spot. the bearing is a time bomb waiting to go off. If you don't believe me, part your sled agian and next Oct. before moving the sled/track pull the bearing seal. You'll see an area were the moisture pooled at the bottom and rusted the race. It seems dumb that they don't have a fitting there but it's probably to prevent people from over greasing it and having it spray all over the speedo sensor and clutches. Either way pulling the seal isn't hard to do and just takes maybe a half hour.
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