chadman
Expert
I would have to agree with Dan. You should always pound on or press on the area that has the friction aplied to it.
chadman said:You should always pound on the area that has the friction aplied to it.
I would have to disagree on that one....You Should NEVER really Pound on anything......other than a HOTT BLONDE, but that's just me
**sj**
Lifetime Member
BOUNTYHUNTER said:chadman said:You should always pound on the area that has the friction aplied to it.
I would have to disagree on that one....You Should NEVER really Pound on anything......other than a HOTT BLONDE, but that's just me
and I have to disagree with you bounty...
ADD to a HOT BLONDE, a HOT BRUNETTE AND HOT REDHEAD....and if theirs friction involved...ones definately doing something wrong! :exc:
shanksyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Guru
sj said:BOUNTYHUNTER said:chadman said:You should always pound on the area that has the friction aplied to it.
I would have to disagree on that one....You Should NEVER really Pound on anything......other than a HOTT BLONDE, but that's just me
and I have to disagree with you bounty...
ADD to a HOT BLONDE, a HOT BRUNETTE AND HOT REDHEAD....and if theirs friction involved...ones definately doing something wrong! :exc:
Im gunna have to add the "semi good looking girl that is still at the bar at 0200.."
dave_dj1
Pro
I yanked my skid to check for cracks and put in new sliders, sure enough there was a small crack on the right side top, and a cracked weld in the same area, fixed that and added gussets. I also was shocked to find that every single bearing on every wheel was shot! After i rebuilt the skid i took the drive axle bearing out and it wouldn't have made it much longer!
we tore my nephews attack apart last night for the same reasons and found his arm cracked in the exact same place! welded that up and added gussets also. his rear wheel bearings were fine as was his drive axle bearing. All his idler wheels are shot though. We both have similar miles, mine is 5500 and his is at 5200.
I highly recomend taking the skid out and checking everything before the season or at the end of the season so it will be ready to go for the next time out.
we tore my nephews attack apart last night for the same reasons and found his arm cracked in the exact same place! welded that up and added gussets also. his rear wheel bearings were fine as was his drive axle bearing. All his idler wheels are shot though. We both have similar miles, mine is 5500 and his is at 5200.
I highly recomend taking the skid out and checking everything before the season or at the end of the season so it will be ready to go for the next time out.
shanksyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Guru
dave_dj1 said:I highly recomend taking the skid out and checking everything before the season or at the end of the season so it will be ready to go for the next time out.
Absolutely.... I say if you want your sled to be tip top shape for riding season, in the spring it is absolutely necessary to take your skid out and put it on the bench, check everything for cracks and repair, check all wheels for wear and replace, grease all wheel bearings or replace if necessary and throw on some new slides.... With all the 2 joke sleds on the market you gotta do all kinds of engine maintenance, with ours, you just change your oil, and do lots of suspension maintenance...
Also.. You must grease your drive shaft and jack shaft bearings every season or they will definately be shot by 5000 miles.... for some stupid reason yamaha didn't put grease fittings on either of these bearings...
05candyredrx1
Veteran
bearings
Yeah, always check that drive shaft bearing. Pulled one out that was new last year...it had ice in it. Cleaned it all out, put in fresh grease... better than new. They never put much grease in these things.
Yeah, always check that drive shaft bearing. Pulled one out that was new last year...it had ice in it. Cleaned it all out, put in fresh grease... better than new. They never put much grease in these things.
sherlock29
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Before the season did the same to both sleds.... speedo and jackshaft bearings.. drilled seals so i can use a small neddle tip on the grease gun, now i can grease on a regular basis and not have to tare anyhting apart to do it. also changed all wheels to removable bearings....
Crazy-wezz
Veteran
Remember...over packing will burn a bearing up. Be careful.
I agree, check your drive shaft and jackshaft bearing too! One bearing had very little grease and the other the grease looked dried up. I added grease but not overloaded. This will be a annual inspect in the spring.
sherlock29
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Depending on your driving conditions and mileage i'd check more than just at the end of the year... last winter i put a new driveshaft bearing in... drove the last month in wet spring conditions... and when i checked it... water dribbled out... thats why i drilled the seals.. now i can put alittle in ever 3-4 rides... and have a place for grease to excape if i get over zellas with the gun...
dave_dj1
Pro
Crazy-wezz said:Remember...over packing will burn a bearing up. Be careful.
why is this? unless your talking realy packing it in, i smear it in on boh sides and roll the bearing a few times.
shanksyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Guru
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
i feel you can never check and grease them enough, grease is cheap
danq
Expert
As part of your yearly maintenance, make sure to grease the needle bearings on each end of the transfer rod too. Not sure there is a huge amount of movement there, but the grease will get washed out..
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