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Exhaust/muffler removal

steveg_nh

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Messages
560
Location
Southern NH
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2007 Attak
I need to remove the muffler (silencer) only on my Attak. I read a couple of threads on the hard time some folks have had getting the pipes to release and the exhaust to slide back one the two exhaust clamps are removed. But that's the part I'm not at yet. Do I get to those clamps from under the sled, or do I have to pull the gas tank and remove the cover panels under the seat? I have the seat off and all the bumper junk and covers off. Just can't see how to best get at the clamps.

Any tips? A bit nervous to break something.
 

90% of the exhaust on the apexes are under the tunnel. you have your expansion pipes under the gas tank, y pipes under the tunnel and then it comes back up at the end of the tunnel. 9 times out of 10 it is hard to get to the pipes above the track so I recommend just taking out the suspension, 4 bolts total but you only need to remove the back 2. Get a strap and hook one end to the bumper and the other end to something high. I recommend making the rear of the sled high enough to work on from above but not too high to where you can't reach anything on your back for down below. Drop the rear of the suspension out of the tunnel and you shall see everything the exhaust has to offer. If you decide to take all four bolts off and remove the suspension all together this would be the time to check your hyfaxes.

Bonus note: The only place where you are going to break something is when removing the plastic pieces, if you got that far you're not going to break anything. Get yourself a rubber hammer and give it a few love taps and be amazed on how heavy that boat anchor comes out. Also pics or it didn't happen!
 
This is great thanks.

I did find the black wrap around trim was broken at the rearmost two bolts. I already ordered a new used one from a sponsor here. But I thought I might need to drop the skid out. I might put this on hold them. I have a jack stand coming this week and already planned on pulling the whole skid to change all the bearings.

But from what you said it is what I thought. The exhaust separates from the Y pipes under the sled via the tunnel. The previous owner told me "15 minute job to swap them." Lol

Anyone interested in an aftermarket exhaust? :)
 
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There should be a rubber plug in the tunnel under the seat. Pull this out ,and using an extension, you'll be able to reach the clamp that holds the muffler. It's either a 12mm or 14 mm.No need to drop the skid. Take the bolts that hold the muffler to the tunnel out. Keep track of the rubber and steel isolators. Using a twisting wiggling motion you should be able to pull the muffler. Sometimes you'll need some persuasion with a plastic or rubber hammer. I've even had to use a block of wood and a small 4lb hammer.
 
Sometimes you'll need some persuasion with a plastic or rubber hammer. I've even had to use a block of wood and a small 4lb hammer.
You forgot the getting mad at it and swearing at it. Careful doing it while it is up on stands in case it tips over off of the stands.
 
You are correct lol! I did this the first time without any TY help in 07 on my new to me 06 Attak. I was cussing WAY before I got to the muffler. Yamaha designed these things like you'd NEVER have to work on them. They've made significant improvements with the 11's and up. But you've still got limited access to the muffler clamp, Exup and flex pipes.
 
As Viper Dave mentioned. Remove the 4 bolts with the rubber isolators. Then remove the gas tank. Under the tank there are two oval grommets and two round grommets. The grommets near the motor are for the Y pipe hangers. The most rearward are for the two claps between the muffler assembly and the Y pipes. Remove these grommets to expose the bolts for the clamps. Once the clamps are loose the muffler assembly can be pulled back and off. It may require some help with a large hammer and a block of wood to "tap" it loose.
IMG_5470.JPG
 
Awesome thanks guys. A question though - since I plan on pulling the skid out anyway to really go through and check all wheel bearings, can I just get to the clamps being discussed from the underside? Would prefer to not pull the tank if I don't have to, as I already have the front end all back together, unless it really is simple and you don't have to start pulling the dash panels and stuff.
 
Ok thanks. So I guess I need to see how to remove the tank, unless I can get to the rear ones as shown in picture above without removing the tank. I'm only swapping the muffler. I was told by previous owner (and have receipt to prove it), the exhaust donuts were replaced with copper donuts.
 
I use a little heat on the muffler flanges before I move them side to side. the bolts can be removed without removing the tank but it makes it alot easier removing them from the top.
 
So you are saying you don't have to remove the tank, but it makes it easier if you do? Sorry, not following fully.
 
the clamps are orientated in a way to get a socket on them from the top. there are two nuts on the rear most area of the fuel tank they are what holds the tank in. you may be able to take them loose and prop up the tank to get at the plugs and get in the holes with a ratchet. It is not that hard to remove the tank but you do have to take that dash back out. Just the flat panel. then the plastic that covers the tank. then the fuel line and sending unit wires and a vent tube up front. remember to replace the vent tube up front or you will be upset when you get it on the trail. it is quite simple just takes some time.
 
there is an awesome write up in the FAQ'S on the top of this forum
 


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