Exhaust/muffler removal

Thanks. I do have studs. So they don't need to be super tight, just held in place. Makes sense. I will flip the screws around so just the pan head is exposed on the underside.
 
exactly. sound perfect just make sure there are no sharp edges that the track could get caught/cut on.
 
Ok, this seems a lot better. :) I had to pull the seat and just loosen the muffler and lift it a bit. There was enough play without forcing it up to let me get to the screw.
I was able to get to the rear screws by reaching up from inside the tunnel. Does this seem ok? Not sure I have much choices at this point, since I can't rivet, unless I fabricated some type of U bracket that held the tubes from the sides. I put it all back together though, as I'm pretty sure this won't present a problem.

Under1.jpeg Under2.jpeg
 
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Looks Great I would have no concern with that set up.
 
Well, another project fully wrapped up. Got a set of used mountain exhaust tips on eBay for $45 delivered. They are in great shape and bolted right up. Looks nice.

tip1.jpeg tip2.jpeg
 
I'm undergoing replacing my donuts for the second time. Should have done them all when I had it apart last time! Biggest issue I have with the project is separating and reconnecting the muffler exhaust pipe from the 2 Y pipes. I have to beat it with a hammer so hard I'm concerned about damage. Any suggestions?
 
what I have done many times is leave the front part of the system connected. i.e. headers etc to enging. Then loosen the clamps up good. Take a rubber mallet and tap the muffler back. Simple for sure. You can also wiggle the muffler around a bit to stretch open the joints but tapping is the ultimate resolve. In reassembly I use new gaskets on all parts. Cheap insurance. Hopefully it's your donut. I've had flex pipes go a couple of times. Take them off the engine and check the seams,etc. I cover one end also and blow hard to see if air leaks out.
 


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