• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

EXPERIENCED SUSPENSION TUNERS WANTED!!

Yammydanny

Newbie
Joined
Dec 7, 2017
Messages
20
Age
41
Location
Ottawa
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
07 Apex RTX
Talking about an 07 RTX here guys and the dreaded ck skid!! I've been reading threads all evening and there's gotta be something I'm missing! I took my sled out for the first time today after completely redoing my my rear suspension including shocks rebuilt and revalved from shoktec up here in Ontario. Sled rides better than ever very pleased but I can't seem to keep the track from ratcheting at higher speeds? When I give it the beans from slower speeds it pulls hard but when I get up in speed (80km/h ish)and try to bar it it seems to make a ratcheting feeling/sound..if I gradually feed her the flipper and let it gain speed I can eventually get to the bar but will inevitably do it..What gives? Could it be something else..I'm guessing not reading about the concerns surrounding this skid? Is the track ballooning that bad? Here's a little background on the setup I'm 170lbs fully dressed front track shock spring rattling loose on the stand..limiter strap in stock position..torsion springs on soft..shock set to full soft..transfer set to almost full (one line showing) 144 studs and track is already too tight in my opinion but I'm new to Yamaha. Is the only way to fix this by taking away the transfer or is there some other hole in my setup? The only other thing I noticed that seems different than before aside from me adding the transfer is the suspension won't return to the top when I get off without a little lift is that due to the springs being on soft or the transfer? Sorry for the long detailed story any advice from this amazing site is both trusted and appreciated..cheers!!
 

Here's a couple pics showing what I consider too tight..for clarity that measures 5/8" from base of track to bottom of hyfax..thoughts?
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
Wow so the track does need to be super tight than! No wonder they are hard on slides! I will move those straps thanks..that would put more pressure on the ski's correct? Should I be worried about suspension not fully rebounding when I get off the sled?
 
Have you had a 4 stroke Yammy before? A little static sit in is not the end of the world as long as the measured sit in with you on the sled, fully geared, is within spec. With the CK skid I’d run the factory spec to the tight side to avoid ratcheting if you’d like to keep that much transfer dialed into your rear suspension.
 
Last edited:
Wow so the track does need to be super tight than! No wonder they are hard on slides! I will move those straps thanks..that would put more pressure on the ski's correct? Should I be worried about suspension not fully rebounding when I get off the sled?

Tighter is better but the problem is it doesn't have enough wrap on the drivers.. pulling the limiter up one hole and keeping the track tight will help keep the wrap needed to stop the ratcheting. It really need extrovert drivers. What track are running? Fully clipped track will hold the driver better then every 3rd.
 
This is my first Yamaha and 4 stroke was a lifelong Polaris guy before...love the sled and although lots complain I don't find it rides that bad with the shocks done but it is a learning curve. I do want the transfer but not for wheelies more for overall traction and comfort I will tighten up on the straps that makes sense about providing more wrap on the drivers!! The track is the stock 1.25 "I believe and studded up the middle...not a bad track but definitely not fully clipped..my end game is a suspension swap but would like to see if I can get this one working decent and its close! Appreciate the tips!
 
This is my first Yamaha and 4 stroke was a lifelong Polaris guy before...love the sled and although lots complain I don't find it rides that bad with the shocks done but it is a learning curve. I do want the transfer but not for wheelies more for overall traction and comfort I will tighten up on the straps that makes sense about providing more wrap on the drivers!! The track is the stock 1.25 "I believe and studded up the middle...not a bad track but definitely not fully clipped..my end game is a suspension swap but would like to see if I can get this one working decent and its close! Appreciate the tips!
Keep me posted on your results.
 
image.jpeg
went out tonight to move the limiter straps and tighten track and upon further inspection noticed straps appear to be at their tightest point..am I seeing this right? So this would be maximum wrap on the drivers guess only thing to do is keep tightening track until the ratcheting stops? Should I loosen these back to hole 2 what would the effect be of doing this? Thanks
 
View attachment 135522 went out tonight to move the limiter straps and tighten track and upon further inspection noticed straps appear to be at their tightest point..am I seeing this right? So this would be maximum wrap on the drivers guess only thing to do is keep tightening track until the ratcheting stops? Should I loosen these back to hole 2 what would the effect be of doing this? Thanks

Leave them and tighten the track..
 
The track should be tensioned to 1.125" to 1.375" sag with 22 lbs of weight pulling down, looks like you might be on the loose side.

I would try loosening those front straps a few holes and tightening up the transfer in the rear. The suspension will not work very well when it is strapped down that tight, you are loosing a bunch of travel. I like to run all my sleds at full strap length and control transfer from the rear, this gives you more usable travel and better bump compliance. Make sure to tighten the front track spring so it doesn't rattle off.
 
Good stuff thanks from what you guys have been saying the track is definitely too loose and I've since tightened it and am just waiting to do a test hit Sunday I will post results..as far as the front strap is concerned I'm starting to understand its function I guess my only concern is that by loosening it off I will be taking weight off of the ski's and it turns fairly well right now but I definitely don't want to lose any corner bite from what I have now...that being said I would like to improve the ride any way I can so there is going to have to be a balance struck somewhere! first priority is to get this beast to take a handful of throttle without skipping!!
 
You're right about finding a balance, try the strap in a few different locations just to get a feel for what it does and find the spot that allows acceptable cornering but still provides a good ride in the bumps. Remember that your transfer will affect ski lift in the corner as well.
 
Thanks for the help fellas good ride today with zero ratcheting the ape definitely saw some WOT so it got tested well..what a beast!! I also went from fully tucked to hole three on the limiter strap..noticeable ride improvement but also noticeable steering loss next question would be how can I get some of that steering back without yanking that strap all the way back up? Cheers!
 
Another question also..how much sag is acceptable before I should be moving up a level of spring? I'm on soft but when I stop and get off the machine I can go around to rear grab handle and lift it up to full height what would seem like a couple inches..I'm going to measure this just wondering what the measurement should be?
 


Back
Top