Darren Betker
Expert
I want to put an extra 10 rear skid into my 91 Phazer. Does anybody know a site for the measurements for install?
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is that suspension narrow enough? phazer has a narrower tunnel with the 14" track.
Yamajon1
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Former Yamaha sleds:
2004 Venture 600 2002 SX Viper 700
1997 Vmax 600 SX 1994 Vmax 600 1989 Exciter
1986 Vmax 540 1986 Phaser 1981 SRX 440
91 would be a Phazer II correct? Weren’t they 15 inch? I know the earlier Phazers were narrow.
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all the fan cooled phazers are 15" wide track. the I was only 116" track, the II was 121" track.
Darren Betker
Expert
Its 15"
blueironranger
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Came over from Reddit I see, I'm the guy that commented on the xtra10. I sold that Phazer II and I never wrote down the measurements but from what I remember the front arm mounted almost exactly in place and I had to move the rear hangers some. Just make sure to get the center to center off the Polaris sled the skid came as that is the only critical measurement. I know I wasn't the only one to install one in a Pogo Phazer, might have better luck on the 2 stroke side of this website.
DGZRT
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From a different forum. might help ........
I did not write this article but I found this article to be very intresting and a great help when swaping rear suspensions. A must read!!!
XTRA 10 Swap step by step
This article explains how you can swap a Polaris Xtra 10 suspention out of a newer snowmobile to an older snowmobile.
Note: This is one persons personal experience. Slednutz takes no responsibility in the accuracy of the information presented below.
Donor Sled: 2000 XC 700sp
Recipient sled: 1994 XCR 440
The measurements I used came from a 96 XCR 440 that came factory with an XTRA 10. If you’re unsure find a similar sled that came with an XTRA 10 and used those measurements. DON’T USE AN XTRA 12 AS THEY ARE COMPLETELY DIFFERENT.
You should be able to do this in an evening or two. You are going to need a big rivet gun, rivets or Stainless steel bolts and nylock nuts, drill, and other small common shop tools.
The biggest thing here is to measure accurately and make sure your measurements are square on both sides of the tunnel. Always measure from the top of the tunnel and not the foot board as this differs from year to year. The following instructions are from my own swap using the above sleds. I have sent this to several others on this form and they have had success as well.
To get the old plates off your best bet is to grind the rivets off from the inside of the tunnel as this won’t mark the part you can see. Once you get the old mounts off your going to have to modify the rear mounting plate to get around your cooler. If your original skid is either an XC 100 or XC 101 then your front plate is probably in the right spot as these skids were the predecessor the XTRA 10. Your front plate should be between (12"-13" back from the center of the jack-shaft). You will then have to drill new hole in the front mounting hole up to the next hole in the plate.
The measurement you need are as follows:
From center of Jack-shaft to center of front mounting hole - 12 1/2 " (if your off by 3/4" or less don't worry about it right now) and 4 1/4" down from the top of the tunnel (this is more important right now)
From the center of front mounting hole to the center of the rear mounting hole 23" (this is the important one) and 5 1/4 " from top of tunnel. Some people have told me that this varies from 22 ½ - 23 ½ depending on the sled.
Rivit the rear bracket on, put the new skid in, tighten the track as normal and your ready to hit the bumps. The measurement discrepancies that are within 1 inch can all be made up with the track tensioning adjustment.
That should be it. The biggest mistake people make doing this swap is the distance between the front and back holes. You could take that xtra 10 skid and bolt it into the sled with out changing any holes and it would fit but it wouldn’t work. The last few pictures are what the sled should look like once you’re done. You might also want to find a set of spindles from a 97, 98 or 99 and swap them out. They are about 1 1/2 longer and will raise the front of the sled putting more weight back on the skid. This helped my darting problem. I also filled the old holes with rivets and bolts so it looks good.
Finished results
Hope this helps, i will try and find more sites with better, more detailed infornation
I did not write this article but I found this article to be very intresting and a great help when swaping rear suspensions. A must read!!!
XTRA 10 Swap step by step
This article explains how you can swap a Polaris Xtra 10 suspention out of a newer snowmobile to an older snowmobile.
Note: This is one persons personal experience. Slednutz takes no responsibility in the accuracy of the information presented below.
Donor Sled: 2000 XC 700sp
Recipient sled: 1994 XCR 440
The measurements I used came from a 96 XCR 440 that came factory with an XTRA 10. If you’re unsure find a similar sled that came with an XTRA 10 and used those measurements. DON’T USE AN XTRA 12 AS THEY ARE COMPLETELY DIFFERENT.
You should be able to do this in an evening or two. You are going to need a big rivet gun, rivets or Stainless steel bolts and nylock nuts, drill, and other small common shop tools.
The biggest thing here is to measure accurately and make sure your measurements are square on both sides of the tunnel. Always measure from the top of the tunnel and not the foot board as this differs from year to year. The following instructions are from my own swap using the above sleds. I have sent this to several others on this form and they have had success as well.
To get the old plates off your best bet is to grind the rivets off from the inside of the tunnel as this won’t mark the part you can see. Once you get the old mounts off your going to have to modify the rear mounting plate to get around your cooler. If your original skid is either an XC 100 or XC 101 then your front plate is probably in the right spot as these skids were the predecessor the XTRA 10. Your front plate should be between (12"-13" back from the center of the jack-shaft). You will then have to drill new hole in the front mounting hole up to the next hole in the plate.
The measurement you need are as follows:
From center of Jack-shaft to center of front mounting hole - 12 1/2 " (if your off by 3/4" or less don't worry about it right now) and 4 1/4" down from the top of the tunnel (this is more important right now)
From the center of front mounting hole to the center of the rear mounting hole 23" (this is the important one) and 5 1/4 " from top of tunnel. Some people have told me that this varies from 22 ½ - 23 ½ depending on the sled.
Rivit the rear bracket on, put the new skid in, tighten the track as normal and your ready to hit the bumps. The measurement discrepancies that are within 1 inch can all be made up with the track tensioning adjustment.
That should be it. The biggest mistake people make doing this swap is the distance between the front and back holes. You could take that xtra 10 skid and bolt it into the sled with out changing any holes and it would fit but it wouldn’t work. The last few pictures are what the sled should look like once you’re done. You might also want to find a set of spindles from a 97, 98 or 99 and swap them out. They are about 1 1/2 longer and will raise the front of the sled putting more weight back on the skid. This helped my darting problem. I also filled the old holes with rivets and bolts so it looks good.
Finished results
Hope this helps, i will try and find more sites with better, more detailed infornation
DGZRT
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- 2008 Vector shorty, 17 Shitdoo 1200X, 2000- pullmyass-340 for Grandkids
More Reading ......
https://www.snowmobileforum.com/threads/xtra-10-swap-with-pics-video-to-follow.87434/
This guy said he would post a video on YouTube. Maybe do a search on there .
Maybe this
https://www.snowmobileforum.com/threads/xtra-10-swap-with-pics-video-to-follow.87434/
This guy said he would post a video on YouTube. Maybe do a search on there .
Maybe this
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