theCATman
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Well, I said goodbye to my oldest Vector and my Apex LTX GT, and scooped up two MINT '11 XTX's. 2250 & 2450 miles on them respectively.
I searched at nauseam about ridding/disabling them of EXUP when that time comes(and it will from what I've gathered) , and never came across any definitive answer to whether or not it's a noticeable difference in drivability or performance without it functioning.
So, that's my question, is there any seat of the pants feel with the valve always in the open position or removed all together from the chamber?? Real world experience??
I searched at nauseam about ridding/disabling them of EXUP when that time comes(and it will from what I've gathered) , and never came across any definitive answer to whether or not it's a noticeable difference in drivability or performance without it functioning.
So, that's my question, is there any seat of the pants feel with the valve always in the open position or removed all together from the chamber?? Real world experience??
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neither one of mine has broken yet. i know viper_dave went through this with his and runs the ulmer header now.
theCATman
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neither one of mine has broken yet. i know viper_dave went through this with his and runs the ulmer header now.
How often do you check it? Any preventive measures to keep the cables good to go??
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i check the cable adjustment every year during pre season as per mrsled exup adjustment video. i have replaced the exup cables on the 2011 2 seasons ago as they had failed along with the dounuts around the 12000mi mark. never lubed the cables, only set them. once set they seem to hold their adjustment, for me, until they fail. 11 has around the 18000 mi mark atm and have only had to do the cables once.
03RX1-ER-LE
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Had a bad exhaust rattle on my 11 XTX while in the UP, pulled into garage and found both cables broken. Checked exhaust doughnuts and they are fine and the clamps are not loose. What is interesting when running and moving the Exup valve by hand the exhaust rattled/vibrated real bad when rolled forward and back from the alignment hole. The only place to position the valve without noise/rattle was with it in the alignment hole lined up. Watching Travis video for the delete and looking at 100.00 for new cables not sure which way to go. He mentions the Exup valve with his bracket is rotated and when I move to that position and it sounded bad. For know I locked the valve into the alignment position and will ride it and see what happens before deciding which way to go on this. Tried to loosen bolts for valve and was out of acetylene so removing valve was not happening until get some heat. Also reading on here it looks like that is all titanium and the Ulmer header is not in this years budget with the skid and seat upgrades done this year.
theCATman
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Had a bad exhaust rattle on my 11 XTX while in the UP, pulled into garage and found both cables broken. Checked exhaust doughnuts and they are fine and the clamps are not loose. What is interesting when running and moving the Exup valve by hand the exhaust rattled/vibrated real bad when rolled forward and back from the alignment hole. The only place to position the valve without noise/rattle was with it in the alignment hole lined up. Watching Travis video for the delete and looking at 100.00 for new cables not sure which way to go. He mentions the Exup valve with his bracket is rotated and when I move to that position and it sounded bad. For know I locked the valve into the alignment position and will ride it and see what happens before deciding which way to go on this. Tried to loosen bolts for valve and was out of acetylene so removing valve was not happening until get some heat. Also reading on here it looks like that is all titanium and the Ulmer header is not in this years budget with the skid and seat upgrades done this year.
Interesting....
You rode it with it not functioning and didn't know it, other than a rattle that you figured was bad donuts.
That said, there was no noticeable difference in power or throttle response?
74Nitro
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Catman, I would leave the EXUP in place until they start to give trouble. It varies greatly depending on how the sled is ridden. Easy riders on smooth trails they will last a long time. Hard riders on rough trails I have seen some done at 7000miles. They are horrible to repair and I refuse to attempt the flex kits as I have done one in the past. If someone comes to me the option is a new Yamaha exup box or the complete header pipe replacement eliminating the exup.
The exup delete has zero effect on top end power, but the exup in place does add power in the low and midrange as intended. One other draw back of the exup is they are rather noisy especially at cruising speeds. I immmediately notice this anytime I hop on one compared to the Winder.(or any other Yamaha sled). The aftermarket replacement header would have no drone I would think.
Hope this helps.
The exup delete has zero effect on top end power, but the exup in place does add power in the low and midrange as intended. One other draw back of the exup is they are rather noisy especially at cruising speeds. I immmediately notice this anytime I hop on one compared to the Winder.(or any other Yamaha sled). The aftermarket replacement header would have no drone I would think.
Hope this helps.
03RX1-ER-LE
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I just took it for a ride around the neighborhood and did not seem to notice anything at launch, hard to really rip it in the suburbs however it still picks up the skis 2 feet on accel so....heading to cabin in a couple days so we will see how it does on the trails.Interesting....
You rode it with it not functioning and didn't know it, other than a rattle that you figured was bad donuts.
That said, there was no noticeable difference in power or throttle response?
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In the closed position you’ll have all the torque, where you might notice a difference is up top down a lake. Your fuel mileage may also take a bit of a dump running in the fully closed position.
03RX1-ER-LE
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Well heading back up Thursday for another seven day ride, will see what effect it has on top end and FE.In the closed position you’ll have all the torque, where you might notice a difference is up top down a lake. Your fuel mileage may also take a bit of a dump running in the fully closed position.
Will then decide on new cables at $100 or Travis delete bracket for $35
The only concern I have is the god awful noise it makes at idle unless locked into place the way I have it, what is going on inside the header with the valve in any other position then straight up????
Someone on here said place the notch at 3 o'clock, it rattled and vibrated sled at the position.
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Travis’ parts are always well thought out and tested, so it’s a good value in my opinion. I went the Ulmer route with my Ape back in the day, but that had just as much to do with performance and simplicity as it did with avoiding future issues with the exup.
74Nitro
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Ok Stubby, how did the sound change with the Ulmer headers?Travis’ parts are always well thought out and tested, so it’s a good value in my opinion. I went the Ulmer route with my Ape back in the day, but that had just as much to do with performance and simplicity as it did with avoiding future issues with the exup.
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Can’t say that it changed things much from the saddle, but sounded much closer to a ‘06-‘10 at an idle. This was very noticeable when my old man’s stock ‘11 was running side by side with my header equipped sled.Ok Stubby, how did the sound change with the Ulmer headers?
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I have a 15 XTX with 33000kms. Every time I change the oil I check exhaust donuts and the exup cable ends. I lubricated the ends at the valve with copper never seize, don’t be shy put a lot at the cable ends and all of the exposed cable. Never had one break.
Stubbs
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Had a similar experience with my Father’s ‘11 Apex. He never rode it that hard, and it spent most of its life on well groomed trails. He sloped copper never seize on everything yearly and the sled has gone over 20k on the original cables with no other exup related issues either.I have a 15 XTX with 33000kms. Every time I change the oil I check exhaust donuts and the exup cable ends. I lubricated the ends at the valve with copper never seize, don’t be shy put a lot at the cable ends and all of the exposed cable. Never had one break.
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