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EXUP guys...heads up!

steiner said:
I wonder if a good coating of Never Seize would help the cable last longer?
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Well I took mine apart this afternoon and I would say the never seize helps but not the answer it really get washed off by the track throwing snow in there all the time. The cables just plain RUST!! Time to get some stainless ones made.
 

Do I really need to worry about this?? I haven't checked mine....( I only have about 1,200 miles on it since I bought it used at Pats..he said it was gone through)....I take good care of my equipment, it's stored in doors and covered...I don't beat it.
How much does it cost to have a dealer do this?? (I am not very mechanical)
 
Heritage said:
Do I really need to worry about this?? I haven't checked mine....( I only have about 1,200 miles on it since I bought it used at Pats..he said it was gone through)....I take good care of my equipment, it's stored in doors and covered...I don't beat it.
How much does it cost to have a dealer do this?? (I am not very mechanical)
Click to expand...

I would say every 2000 miles they should be checked.
 
MrSled said:
I would say every 2000 miles they should be checked.
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Same as Mr sled, just check once in a while and goop them up with anti seize will help a little. I am trying some rust converter for steel this time around but I have a spare cable and going to see if I can get stainless ones made.
 
i'm leaving my exup in, there's a reason why it's there and it has been proven to work, just keep it adjusted properly. Don't think Yamaha would just add it for no reason. When a pipe cracks or breaks then i'll decide whether to eleminate or replace.
 
I broke my cables when adjusting. They were out of stock and took a few weeks to get new cables. I rode about 500 km's with the valve in full open. Ran just fine maybe a little louder but not much of a noticeable difference. I feel with the cable fixed that there is a very small but noticeable power difference in the mid range. That's just me. I a pain to always take everything off to adjust these cables. I don't trust my dealer to adjust as I asked them before and they didn't do it. I don't think my dealer knows how to go through the diagnostic mode. Thanks to Mr. Sleds video piece of cake.
 
Ok....Three seasons on the new cables and all "appears" to be well. I've been opening the inspection cover once a year and dabbing on antiseize. The cable barrels are not rusty, and twist freely. That's what I believe causes them to break; the barrels rust and can't twist in the pulley eyelets as it rotates, and they snap. I'm sure other factors eventually come into play, but I believe rust is at the forefront.

My valve is slightly out of adjustment, but I'm leaving it alone for this season.

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Thanks for the reminder/heads up 'Angry Acorn' (you can thank Rock for that one ;)!) as I just finished adjusting my '18 Apex with a little over 5000 miles. Mine was a little off, more than yours is, but Tom's video literally made it a breeze. The only thing I did not do was add the anti-seize. Thank goodness I saw your post while everything is still off as I polish the tunnel but will be sure to do this as well. IMHO, it certainly can't hurt.
 
too late for me on the antiseize front as both have been done since about beginning of september. i did make sure that the cable ends did move in the holders on the valve though. only had to adjust the 16 as the 11 held its adjustment perfectly from when i put new cables on it last year.
 
So, why does the diagnostic check break them? Mine was intact and working until i cycled it like Mr Sleds video shows. Thats when they snapped. 2660 miles, kinda pisses me off. I feel like i should not have even checked them.
 
mikextx said:
So, why does the diagnostic check break them? Mine was intact and working until i cycled it like Mr Sleds video shows. Thats when they snapped. 2660 miles, kinda pisses me off. I feel like i should not have even checked them.
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I agree, bud! However, most guys, like me, only check them before winter. That means those components have 8 months to sit there and corrode. In addition, I believe the diagnostic mode cycles the pulley farther than it actually travels during operation...then snap!

Just a hunch...
 
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