Redbeard
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Not trying to hijack Tom's thread, but I wanted 2011+ Apex owners to see this.
I just checked the EXUP valve adjustment on my 2012 Apex and one of the cables snapped during the diagnostic service mode. The sled only has 6000 miles and it broke without effort, right where the barrel is crimped onto the cable.
You guys may want to check yours if you never have. MrSled has a good video on how to check it:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/how-to-adjust-your-apex-ex-up-power-valve.119905/
I just checked the EXUP valve adjustment on my 2012 Apex and one of the cables snapped during the diagnostic service mode. The sled only has 6000 miles and it broke without effort, right where the barrel is crimped onto the cable.
You guys may want to check yours if you never have. MrSled has a good video on how to check it:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/how-to-adjust-your-apex-ex-up-power-valve.119905/
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Those cables are pretty crappy. I have broke them as well on one of my Apex's and then on the other, I ripped the entire thing out like I did on my Stratoliner DLX and added a Ulmer Header.
Redbeard
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I'm interested in hearing feedback on the replacement header from Ulmer. If I continue to have issues, I may go that route.Those cables are pretty crappy. I have broke them as well on one of my Apex's and then on the other, I ripped the entire thing out like I did on my Stratoliner DLX and added a Ulmer Header.
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I'm interested in hearing feedback on the replacement header from Ulmer. If I continue to have issues, I may go that route.
I will keep you posted.
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Or you could just eliminate the headache completely. 
http://www.ulmerracing.com/Apex-OEM...htm?productId=-3687853&catalogId=-11683&fpg=1
http://www.ulmerracing.com/Apex-OEM...htm?productId=-3687853&catalogId=-11683&fpg=1
Redbeard
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Would my sled need a tune with this header?Or you could just eliminate the headache completely.
http://www.ulmerracing.com/Apex-OEM...htm?productId=-3687853&catalogId=-11683&fpg=1
Bigbluemachine
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Check mine every 1500 miles. Then grease the cable and shoot WD 40 into cable housing as much as possible. Nearly 4K miles with no issues so far.
Redbeard
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Keep checking every season. My cable broke where the barrel is crimped on the end, so it's not a cable lube issue, at least in this case.Check mine every 1500 miles. Then grease the cable and shoot WD 40 into cable housing as much as possible. Nearly 4K miles with no issues so far.
The barrel is frozen in the pulley, so I'm guessing that not being able to pivot as the pulley rotates weakened the cable and broke it.
I put in a call to Pat's Yamaha and they're taking care of me. I'm replacing both cables.
I wonder if a good coating of Never Seize would help the cable last longer?
Redbeard
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Yes! Like Bigbluemachine said, I'm starting to think a guy should service this area at least once during the season and definitely at season-end before it sits and time gets a hold of it.I wonder if a good coating of Never Seize would help the cable last longer?
whitedust1
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My cable broke too and Pat's replaced under YES. If it happens again I'm shutting exup down. I really didn't notice any performance difference prolly put on 1500 miles in season after breakage so had it fixed in off season.
Redbeard
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Tom, you replaced your header already, so in your opinion, could the internal rotating valve just be removed and then the side be capped off with a home made cover plate? This would delete the valve, but keep the existing header in tact?
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Tom, you replaced your header already, so in your opinion, could the internal rotating valve just be removed and then the side be capped off with a home made cover plate? This would delete the valve, but keep the existing header in tact?
I guess you could do that. But I have 16000 on ours and the one of the header flanges cracked and the cables broke once before. I was tired of the headache.
Redbeard
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Understood. I guess a guy could remove the valve and run the header until it cracks, then go the stainless route, as I only have 6000 miles on this sled.I was tired of the headache.
You could just secure the valve in the full open position instead of trying to take it out.
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