• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

FAQ: How do I do a Reverse Actuator Repair?

Status
Not open for further replies.

FrozenTows4

Lifetime Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2014
Messages
487
Age
65
Location
Brainerd Minnesota
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2014 XF7000 Sold
2017 ZR6000RS
2018 ZR6000 El Tigre
YOUTUBE
FrozenTows1

Does anyone have access to the photos for this procedure? I have a Viper LTX grinding this gear when trying reverse. I am thinking it needs to be "re-clocked" but the photos above are not showing up from Photobucket.

I am going to check out the service manual, but it looks like a simple snap ring to pull it out. Thanks for any help you can give me.
 
Images have been restored. Service manual will not describe this procedure. It Will list the torque specs for the fasteners. Do Not over tighten. Those little plastic ears are pretty fragile.
Let us know how everything worked out. Cheers.
 
Thank you so much for doing this. I just had it happen our on 2014 yesterday. And it was working perfectly in the spring. Does anyone have a theory on what causes this?

The only thing I can think of, was my chaincase oil swap was done by splitting the case just enough to drain out the bottom. It was not ideal, but I was getting lazy last spring. Is it possible that I caused some sort of mis-alignment in the chain case, to the point that the reverse actuator is seized causing this issue?

Either way, I will be pulling it apart tonight. We put on our first 40 miles yesterday. And drove the truck 250 miles to find it. I call that hardcore!

Thanks again!
 
One last question, do you think it's necessary to remove the entire unit to do this procedure? Or just leave it in place, and pull the snap ring while on the machine? TY.
 
One last question, do you think it's necessary to remove the entire unit to do this procedure? Or just leave it in place, and pull the snap ring while on the machine? TY.

Yes. Remove the actuator. All the gears have a little pressure on them. Removing the actuator relieves this pressure.

Once removed, one could use a power source to spin the stripped portion to the bottom. No removal of cir-clip necessary. I have not tried this, but in theory, it would work. I've just removed the clip, rotated the nylon gear, and re-installed.

The nylon gear comes off fairly easily, but will need a little finesse. Think through it, have patience, be gentle, but not wimpy.

What ever procedure you choose, be sure to mark the stripped portion with a sharpie pen.

You did nothing wrong to cause this problem. It's a design flaw. Every time reverse is activated, or the engine is turned off, the brass worm gear gives the nylon gear a sudden shock when it bottoms out. It's just a matter of time before they all fail. Good news is this is a free fix this time around.

Rumor has it that the new design has both gears made of brass. This rumor has not been substantiated yet.
 
When cracking the chaincase even just a little for the oil to drain, or even splitting the case completely to get in side, remove the actuator first, then proceed with task at hand.
 
Thank you so much for your directions and tips above guys. It was very straight forward and simple to pull this part and re-clock the gear. Once back together, I am finding that it is moving about half the distance it needs to shift from forward to reverse. So it is still wanting to grind the gears.

What I need to do is figure out what would cause this thing to be jamming up inside. Especially since the chaincase has never been apart. I'm guessing something had to have slipped when I cracked the oil tank to drain it. But it still runs perfectly in forward.

What were the symptoms related to the reverse service bulletin? the one that added the extension to the actuator? Below is a video of what I am experiencing. I have full video of the job, but without success, I don't care to edit it down. (note the blue is the stripped section that I re-clocked out of the way.

Thanks again for any help you can give me!

 
Ok, so after reading posts here, and on the Viper forum on Facebook, I have come to a conclusion. (and please forgive me if this has been documented here)

This fall, the battery in the viper was drained. I put a charge on it, and the battery started leaking, so I swapped it out for new. From what I have heard, these losses of power, have coincidentally caused the actuator to forget what position it is in. From what I am also reading, that was a safety feature as well for the actuator to always attempt to put itself, or be sure that the sled was in forward upon starting.

All of the above have caused the grinding of the gears. So, I figured I should go out, pull the cap and the actuator off and do a forward/reverse cycle while off the chaincase to just see if it was off. Keeping in mind, the beeper is triggered by the sensor on the extension, and not the reverse motor itself.

I noticed once I cycled this, my 9/3 oclock that I had marked were completely off. And not only were they off, it had tried to over rotate one way or the other and ground some more. At least when going into reverse now, it rotates just enough to set off the beeper, but may have run out of good gears to get fully into gear and makes a horrible chaincase noise. So that leads me to believe I will not be playing with this any more.

I suppose now I am in the market for a new $150 actuator. I can only hope that my chaincase is in good shape still. It still returns to forward and spins the track. So I am assuming it was only moving partial when going into reverse.

What are the guesses that a new actuator will solve my problems now that I figured this out? And, is the detent on the extension enough to be sure that it is in the correct position?

Thanks guys!
 
Your video show's that your in the forward gear.
That's good unless there's something else going one. Not likely.
You appear to have 2 stripped positions. Strange.
Mark, with a sharpy pen, where the 2 stripped positions occur. You didn't do that before. Your clocking was off, that's why you have another stripped position. Maybe?
Place the stripped positions well out of the way of the engagement point. See reverse actuator video at work video.
Please Do Not buy another reverse actuator until you try this!
This can be fixed without. If you weren't 2 1/2 hours away, I'd be coming over right now.
 
That was exactly my thought, as I marked and reclocked it before the actuator motor knew what position it was in. So yes, it did grind roughly half of the total gear.

So I am editing the video of what I did. I marked the half that was stripped, and re clocked it to the lower half and hoped that I had enough now to get it in and out of gear. One snap ring later, I was able to test it. There is still just a little grind and both ends of the stroke. So jury is out as far as how long it will last. But it's going in and out of gear.

Thanks for talking through this. I did find the new part for $106 shipped from Country Cat, so that is my worst case scenario if it fails again. Since this was a spring order 2014 that did have the full extended warranty, it may be worth a call to Yamaha. As they have been known to take care of the spring order guys that bought the extended warranty. I should double check the VIN, as my warranty may have just expired.

Video to come. (better close ups on the final re-clock)
 
Thank you so much for your directions and tips above guys. It was very straight forward and simple to pull this part and re-clock the gear. Once back together, I am finding that it is moving about half the distance it needs to shift from forward to reverse. So it is still wanting to grind the gears.

What I need to do is figure out what would cause this thing to be jamming up inside. Especially since the chaincase has never been apart. I'm guessing something had to have slipped when I cracked the oil tank to drain it. But it still runs perfectly in forward.

What were the symptoms related to the reverse service bulletin? the one that added the extension to the actuator? Below is a video of what I am experiencing. I have full video of the job, but without success, I don't care to edit it down. (note the blue is the stripped section that I re-clocked out of the way.

Thanks again for any help you can give me!

Our fellow member Frozen Tows has done a great job describing actuator indexing with the use off many photos. A picture is worth a thousand words. I originally covered this topic with many words. This topic is covered in the following post. Hope this helps.

http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/pro...-failure-four-stroke-procross-snowmobile.html

Your video shows only 1/4 turn actuation at which point you have stripped teeth. Normal full actuation is a little less than 1/2 turn. I do not know what caused stripped teeth with only 1/4 turn?? When my actuator only turned 1/4 turn I did not have stripped teeth instead I had bigger problems covered by this post.

http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/pro...-intermittent-failure-mechanical-reverse.html
 
Yup, video shows a bit more. Rather than that little clip of the first result, below is the full process. It's obvious that with the battery drain, that my actuator had no idea what postion it was in and ground off additional gear. I'm lucky to have enough left to allow it in and out of gear. It's working for now. Hopefully this video will help others that encounter this issue.

 
Status
Not open for further replies.


Back
Top