fergdog93
Expert
Ok, I got everything but the rear skid ready to powder this weekend. I pressed all the bushings and baljoints out of the A-arms, and removed my footholds from the tunnel. After I got all that knocked out I removed my tunnel stiffeners and runningboard trim. Next I removed my entire bulk head from the tunnel. Also I got the front sub (clip) totally striped of the sway bar, and junk rivets, this is also ready to powder.
Here is the tunnel completely gutted and ready to coat. This thing only weighs about 30 pounds once you get it down this far. This will be powdered a dark matalic Yamaha blue. Basically the same as the YZ chassis in the back ground
Here we have the bulk head removed from the tunnel. I will leave this unit the way it is. (you don't see it anyway)
These are my A-arms which will be the same blue as the tunnel.
All these parts, foothold assem, tunnel stiffeners, trim, front & rear bumpers, and front spindels will be powdered neon yellow. Along with the rear skid rails (not shown)
Everything should be ready to rebuild in 2-3 weeks. in the mean time I will start on painting all my body pannels white. We will see how that goes, wish me luck as this is the only phaze that makes me nervious.
Any questions/comments anyone has are more than welcome.
Thanks fergdog93
Here is the tunnel completely gutted and ready to coat. This thing only weighs about 30 pounds once you get it down this far. This will be powdered a dark matalic Yamaha blue. Basically the same as the YZ chassis in the back ground
Here we have the bulk head removed from the tunnel. I will leave this unit the way it is. (you don't see it anyway)
These are my A-arms which will be the same blue as the tunnel.
All these parts, foothold assem, tunnel stiffeners, trim, front & rear bumpers, and front spindels will be powdered neon yellow. Along with the rear skid rails (not shown)
Everything should be ready to rebuild in 2-3 weeks. in the mean time I will start on painting all my body pannels white. We will see how that goes, wish me luck as this is the only phaze that makes me nervious.
Any questions/comments anyone has are more than welcome.
Thanks fergdog93
yamaslob
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Boy talk about tear down! Its goin look good and clean all back together. Good work
-James
-James
Curve Industries
TY Advertiser
How is everything going Ferg? Did you finish sanding the panels to get the matte texture out?
- Sean
www.CurveIndustries.com
www.RideWithRobbie.com
- Sean
www.CurveIndustries.com
www.RideWithRobbie.com
fergdog93
Expert
Curve Industries said:
Yes I did Sean, I used 300 grit paper, and 9 bazillion grit from my arms...all this sanding kinda sucked, but whenever I would second guess my goal, I would just check out all the other posts on the site for encouragement. I accually used a palm sander for most of the job, but I was unable to use it in the tighter sections, and creases. I'm almost done painting everything already, just need to finish the hood, and lower-inside covers. (where the tierods poke through) Does anyone know of a paint that would work on the rubbery trim peices like the tierod boots, or the dash trim? These peices are a black rubber material called Texuprene, and Santoprene.
I'll post pics later today!
fergdog93
Expert
Here is the body paintjob so far....
Lower side peices
RH & LH side covers
Front nose
Rear exshaust covers, end cap, and breake light housing
Front hood w/windsheild, and dash w/guages
Now that I have most of the body painted, should I clearcoat it? I know that would give me more of a glossy shine, but can I get clear with a flex additive? White doesn't show as much reflection or "shine" as a darker color like blue, or black anyway. Maybe some of the paint veterans can help me out with this one!
Thanks!
fergdog93
Lower side peices
RH & LH side covers
Front nose
Rear exshaust covers, end cap, and breake light housing
Front hood w/windsheild, and dash w/guages
Now that I have most of the body painted, should I clearcoat it? I know that would give me more of a glossy shine, but can I get clear with a flex additive? White doesn't show as much reflection or "shine" as a darker color like blue, or black anyway. Maybe some of the paint veterans can help me out with this one!
Thanks!fergdog93
Looks awsome! I would definitely clear it to give it shine and to protect the paint. You can get a flex agent for clear....it's done on every car out there so you can get it for your sled. This thing is gonna look amazing with your colour sceme.
T-Nytro
Extreme
What kind of paint did you use to paint the panels? I am changing my tunnel and I thought that was a good summer project, you take it to a whole new level.
Curve Industries
TY Advertiser
Ferg, your paint selection should have consisted of a single stage or two stage (base/clear). If you selected a two stage, PPG, House Of Kolor or the like, you absolutely must apply the clear. In fact, there is typically a time window you shoot for when applying a two stage system, say after the base, apply the first layer of clear within 15 minutes, then subsequent layers of clear within 45 of each. Prior to applying the base, you'll want to spray on an adhesion promoter along with a flexible primer as well. It looks like your application is spot on!
After you clear, you'll need to wet sand. If you've never done this before, don't be scared - just be careful! As with the first two stages, sanding is usually recommended within a window as well - say, 24 to 36hrs after completion. If you let it harden a bit more, no biggie but it will take more work... not a bad idea to be scrapping at a harder surface for your first time around. If you squirt like a pro, it is likely that you wont have any runs and your corners and edges will be the same thickness as your continuous surfaces. You'll want to end with 2000 grit paper but may need to start a bit lower (1500 grit) depending on how much orange peel there is. Orient the panel so you can see a reflection of another object, distortion in the image is caused by 'orange peel'... tiny pits and discontinuities in the clear application.
TRY NOT TO SAND EDGES AND CORNERS... if you cut through to the base it's game over.
Next you'll want to polish the sand paper scratches out. You can use a power buffer but your panels are small and it might be more trouble than it's worth. Start with a rough cut polish working an area of 6"x6" by hand. Finish with a swirl remover.
One of the important tricks is moving the part around in many different angles to view reflections and the surface finish kind of like looking down the barrel of a gun. Almost nothing with show up if you inspect perpendicular to the surface. You'll want to again, view it from all angles.
It's going to to take a LONG time to do it right Ferg. The best feeling of all will be when it comes to public inspection time.... The first thing people try to do is pick apart a custom job... but your painted parts will be impervious!
A pneumatic DA comes in VERY handy when sanding plastic parts however, it is always good practice to go over everything by hand afterward. It's amazing what pops out after you wash parts with soap and water... just when you think you are finished!
I am an absolute perfectionist when it comes to painting (and performance snowmobile products) so I hope this helps!
- Sean
www.CurveIndustries.com
www.RideWithRobbie.com
After you clear, you'll need to wet sand. If you've never done this before, don't be scared - just be careful! As with the first two stages, sanding is usually recommended within a window as well - say, 24 to 36hrs after completion. If you let it harden a bit more, no biggie but it will take more work... not a bad idea to be scrapping at a harder surface for your first time around. If you squirt like a pro, it is likely that you wont have any runs and your corners and edges will be the same thickness as your continuous surfaces. You'll want to end with 2000 grit paper but may need to start a bit lower (1500 grit) depending on how much orange peel there is. Orient the panel so you can see a reflection of another object, distortion in the image is caused by 'orange peel'... tiny pits and discontinuities in the clear application.
TRY NOT TO SAND EDGES AND CORNERS... if you cut through to the base it's game over.
Next you'll want to polish the sand paper scratches out. You can use a power buffer but your panels are small and it might be more trouble than it's worth. Start with a rough cut polish working an area of 6"x6" by hand. Finish with a swirl remover.
One of the important tricks is moving the part around in many different angles to view reflections and the surface finish kind of like looking down the barrel of a gun. Almost nothing with show up if you inspect perpendicular to the surface. You'll want to again, view it from all angles.
It's going to to take a LONG time to do it right Ferg. The best feeling of all will be when it comes to public inspection time.... The first thing people try to do is pick apart a custom job... but your painted parts will be impervious!
A pneumatic DA comes in VERY handy when sanding plastic parts however, it is always good practice to go over everything by hand afterward. It's amazing what pops out after you wash parts with soap and water... just when you think you are finished!
I am an absolute perfectionist when it comes to painting (and performance snowmobile products) so I hope this helps!
- Sean
www.CurveIndustries.com
www.RideWithRobbie.com
fergdog93
Expert
Thanks Sean, lots of great info! I have a good friend of mine who is helping me with the paint prosess. He got me hooked up with the right stuff from the start, and now he is laid off, so he is helping me with the rest of the clearcoat and sanding. He has been painting Harley's, cars, you name it for over 15 years, and he said you know what your talking about 100%. Thanks!
Well, I got stupid today, and stoped in at my Yamaha dealer to pick up some parts, blue snowflap, GYTR front bumper, some rivets, and I figured I'd pick myself up a new Yamaha snowmobile hat, and walked out with this.
2009 Rhino 700FI sport edition. This thing has everything, power steering, FI motor, sweet paint scheem, bed rails, trick shift nob, fake carbon fiber steeringwheel inlay, and euro tail lights. I only put about 4 miles on it, and let my dad and his buddy take it for a ride, and they where gone for 2 1/2 hours. It was covered in mud (the last pic was the last time I saw it clean) so I spent the rest of the night cleaning it up.
Oh, well, at least they didn't roll it orcrack it up! LOL!
Fergdog93
I have a good friend of mine who is helping me with the paint prosess. He got me hooked up with the right stuff from the start, and now he is laid off, so he is helping me with the rest of the clearcoat and sanding. He has been painting Harley's, cars, you name it for over 15 years, and he said you know what your talking about 100%. Thanks!Well, I got stupid today, and stoped in at my Yamaha dealer to pick up some parts, blue snowflap, GYTR front bumper, some rivets, and I figured I'd pick myself up a new Yamaha snowmobile hat, and walked out with this.
2009 Rhino 700FI sport edition. This thing has everything, power steering, FI motor, sweet paint scheem, bed rails, trick shift nob, fake carbon fiber steeringwheel inlay, and euro tail lights. I only put about 4 miles on it, and let my dad and his buddy take it for a ride, and they where gone for 2 1/2 hours. It was covered in mud (the last pic was the last time I saw it clean) so I spent the rest of the night cleaning it up.
Oh, well, at least they didn't roll it orcrack it up! LOL!Fergdog93
Curve Industries
TY Advertiser
Nice one Ferg! You'll do great with the paint, just take your time and it will come out perfect! The trouble is now - hhhmmmm work on the Nytro or rip on the Rhino???
Nice truck by the way. I always tell everyone, 'Once you puff black, you'll never go back!' I don't know about you, but I frequently prefer listening to the turbo instead of the radio.
- Sean
www.CurveIndustries.com
www.RideWithRobbie.com
Nice truck by the way. I always tell everyone, 'Once you puff black, you'll never go back!' I don't know about you, but I frequently prefer listening to the turbo instead of the radio.
- Sean
www.CurveIndustries.com
www.RideWithRobbie.com
fergdog93
Expert
'once you puff black, you'll never go back' Thats funny, I like it! 
yea, the ol' Duramax blows the socks off my old Z71 serria....real noticable when pulling an inclosed 4 place w/5 sleds packed in it.
Na, I'll be working on the Nytro hard untill its finished, I don't like to lose momentum. The Rhino isn't going anywhere, I have the key's.
Its just a matter of time before I tear into the Rhino anyways. At least thes what everyone keeps telling me
By the way, I talked to my powdercoat guy, and he said all my parts will be done by the end this month. Guess I better get a move on and get this paint knocked out. My plan is to have the sled about completed by the end of July, mid August. Aim high Willis, aim high!
Fergdog93
yea, the ol' Duramax blows the socks off my old Z71 serria....real noticable when pulling an inclosed 4 place w/5 sleds packed in it.Na, I'll be working on the Nytro hard untill its finished, I don't like to lose momentum. The Rhino isn't going anywhere, I have the key's.
Its just a matter of time before I tear into the Rhino anyways. At least thes what everyone keeps telling me
By the way, I talked to my powdercoat guy, and he said all my parts will be done by the end this month. Guess I better get a move on and get this paint knocked out. My plan is to have the sled about completed by the end of July, mid August. Aim high Willis, aim high!
Fergdog93
QUADSCRIB
Expert
Whos yer dealer and W(where)T.F is sandusky Michigan Ferg?
fergdog93
Expert
Well, after about two months of waiting on the next guy, my powder is finally done and ready to pick up. I'll be picking it up Friday afternoon sometime, I'm pumped to get this project rollin' again! 
YEAH!
YEAH!
Would you hurry up and post some more pics already lol....I'm dying to see this sled put together!
fergdog93
Expert
shaddow44 said:
Hahaha, I'm trying shaddow, I can't wait eathier. I'm thinking of putting together a slide show of the assembly of this sled.
Like I said, I'll be picking up the powdered parts tomorrow around 1:00
