Few minor issues

RaWarrior

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Hi all, new to the forum (and to Yamaha's this season for that matter). Been sledding for about 8 years. Started out on an old skidoo formula 380 fan, moved up to an 03 REV, lost both over last summer in a garage fire. Found an 05 Warrior in mint condition with only 2500 miles and some extras for only $4500 and was curious about 4 strokes, so here I am.

So far, I've been loving it. Motor is always easy to start and no plug fouling/adding oil seems trivial but it's refreshing to ride all day and not have to pop the hood to add oil or swap plugs.

This season (bought it in Sept.) I've put about 600 miles on it so far. No major issues, but it has a few quirks that I haven't identified as either "that's part of the sled" of if it's an actual problem.

First one is that something rattles at idle speed. I tend to think it's coming from the primary but can't be sure. The second you touch the gas it vanishes, and when the motor is returning to idle when it hits about 1500RPM the rattle returns. When the rattle happens, the engine speed drops about 300RPM. Any ideas what I should look for?

Second, the secondary clutch has (seemingly to me) a lot of play in it. If you grab it you can wiggle it in/out probably a good 1/8 inch. Belt wear is normal, never broken one.

Third, I was involved in a minor crash (if you can call it that) with another sled last weekend. The other sled was parked on the right side of a trail, around a blind left turn. Guy was taking a leak in the woods. Smart, huh? I managed to avoid a direct rear-end and slid in broadside, thankfully not hooking my right ski in the other sled's left a-arms. It poked a hole in the right side panel, missed the coolant line, but kinda squashed a metal tube that I can't figure out what it's for. It also bent a strut in the right footwell that causes the hood to not shut quite right now. It doesn't look like it goes anywhere but I'm afraid it was a coolant line. The overflow bottle was empty after riding another 50 miles after the incident, no overheating though. Topped it up again and I can't find a leak anywhere, doesn't seem to be using any coolant now.

Fourth, sorry for the long post, sometimes it just doesn't want to idle. NOTE: since my garage burnt down, the sled is outside 24/7. I have a factory cover for it, and it's covered whenever it's not in use but outside nonetheless. I'll start it up like normal, but when it's "warm up cycle" ends, as in when the light stops blinking and the RPMs drop a little, sometimes this stalls the motor. If I ride it and it gets warmed up it idles better but still awfully slow (6-700). Other times(most of the time) this doesn't happen.
The motor is stock except for a pipe the previous owner installed. It doesn't use any oil I've noticed, In the 600 miles I only added maybe 1/8 of a quart.
I'm thinking old fashioned water in the gas for this since I can do absolutely nothing to the motor and it typically goes away on it's own?

Fifth, the top end seems....lacking. Like I said stock machine, new stock track. It hauls #*$&@ to 100 like I can't believe, then just "runs out of steam". The dream-o-meter registers 114 on perfect conditions, my GPS unit shows only 93. My 600HO REV did 98 on GPS with 30 less HP. The motor goes to about 10500 when you first nail it, then once the clutches backshift or whatever it goes WOT at about 9500.

Sixth, the reverse kinda sucks. Like sometimes the handle won't slide over until I "bump" the sled forward a bit. That normal?
 
Well, I can answer #6
yes, thats normal. when you engage reverse you are physically making 2 gears mesh. when you stop, there is no way to be sure that the gears are perfectly lined up so that you can mesh the gears. sometimes it take a bit of a nudge to move the bottom gear so that they mesh.

as for #1, that seems to be par for the course as far as i know. mine does it. I dont know why though.
 
the rattle is from the gear reduction in the engine, and is normal. turning up the idle to 1500-1600 will quiet it down a bit. you say it looses about 300rpm and then picks back up, sounds like plugged pilot jets, carbs need to be pulled and cleaned. the secondary floats on the jackshaft in and out aprx. 1/8 th. inch, this is normal. it will also roll foreward and back without moving the sled, also normal. not sure about your crash, sounds like you dented the right side tube or frame above the footwell, not a coolant line. keep an eye on coolant level and check for leaks. as for it stalling after the lite goes out, its likely pilot jets and or idle not up at 1500 when warm. lastly, top rpm at wide open should be 10200-10500, any less and your power is not there. dont know if your running stock setup, if yes, an orange-silver-orange yamaha primary spring is the best bang for the buck using stock weights.
 
i have the same sled. what grader said is true about everything. i know on mine i have hit 100mph+ but the trail was hard as ice and the spedo read 126 mph but i have clutched mine. never gps'd this sled yet. the best cure for the clutching is to install ulmers stage 2 kit like i have. it put all the rpm #'s right where they are supposed to be.

there are some guys on here that have put the rx-1 top gear in for some extra top end as the war's are geared down 1 tooth in comparison.
 
Thanks for the tips about the rattle and the "loose" secondary. The play in the secondary just didn't seem quite kosher to me when I first noticed, but if that's normal then it's no cause for concern. I replaced the belt with a new stock one within the last 100 miles, the original was on the wear limit.

The sled is stock except for the rear exhaust and has just shy of 3100 miles.

As for the bad idle, it's very intermittent and by far in the minority of the time. It'll go for several days and idle perfectly fine through 100+ miles, right around 1300 RPM warm, slightly slower before it's totally warmed up. Then all of a sudden it'll idle poorly for a bit, then suddenly go away again. I ride in mostly in the Adirondacks in remote areas(i.e. gas pumps that still have rotary dials, no LCD screens), and I've has issues with bad/water contaminated gas before both in my truck and 2stroke jet ski so I'm leaning toward that but at the end of the season I do plan to remove/clean the carbs and some mods, such as better skis (I've heard almost undisputed that stock Yamaha skis are garbage) and perhaps a set of K&N's. No NOS or turbo's, don't have that kind of money to throw at a toy I use 3 months of the year.

Maybe I'm being nitpicky, but the sled also has an intermittent lag right around 6000RPM if you hammer on the gas. From and idle/slow speed and you nail it, the motor launches to 6000, sounds like one cylinder momentairly cuts out(.5sec at most), then goes like crazy. If you gradually speed up this doesn't happen, and doesn't happen all the time
 
a few simple tune up tips include: remove all 4 coils and clean them with solvent eg. brake cleaner to remove carbon dust, inside and outside. the dust can cause intermittant spark and loss of rpm. remove foam in airbox and clean in detergent and hot water. it may look clean but actually holds a lot of belt dust that can restrict airflow and hurt performance. check clutches center to center and offset. buy the tools from a vendor on this site, its an investment in free horsepower. if you dont plan on pulling your carbs this season, add some seafoam to the gas, it might help clean the pilots, and wont hurt anything. it also absorbs water from the fuel system.
 
I always thought that seafoam was to be sucked through a vacuum line, like the brake booster hose on a car, though I guess there's no reason you can't just put it in the tank.

Put a good 50 miles on it today and the idle was fine, albeit a tad slow, the whole time. It idled right around 1000. A bottle of drygas seemed to clear up the bad idle quick.

Would partially clogged pilots cause the WOT speed to be slower, as in engine speed? Like I said it's only doing about 9500 with the flipper pinned to the handlebars. I might clean out the filter foam like you suggested, bad airflow can definetly rob RPM's
 
checking the plugs will tell you if each cylinder is running rich or lean, they should all be very similar. the pilot jets flow fuel at all rpm all the time, but i dont think that is your top rpm problem. if they were that bad the sled would not idle at all. install an orange-silver-orange primary spring from your dealer. this spring has a higher rate and final shift and works very well on these sleds.
 
1 - bump your idle up to 1600 rpm or so and it goes away
2 - normal
3 - can't tell ya
4 - that's odd
5 - 113 mph was the best I ever pushed, GPS is less 4 - 5 km/h than speedo
6 - normal

That money in your pocket leftover and the smell that you don't have on your clothes when you're done at the end of the day, also normal!!
 


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