finally hot hands..but 81 code***solved***

[unchained]

Im surprised that the problem was fixed with a different set of grips. It seems like the problem would lie in the juice being sent to them if the issue is no heat under a certain rpm??

 

[mryamaha]

So let me get this straight. you used the same circuit as the stock grips but you wired them in series and used the switch out of the hot grip kit?

 

[Crewchief47]

mryamaha,
Please fill out your location in your profile, site rules.

The way I read it, he installed the HotGrips on a seperate circuit with the HotGrips switch. He had to add a resistor to the stock Yamaha circuit to eliminate the error code.

 

[DITCHBANGER]

So let me get this straight. you used the same circuit as the stock grips but you wired them in series and used the switch out of the hot grip kit?

no i wired the hotgrips into the 12volt acc harness,with a toggle switch mounted on the black console under the bars..i kept the plug ends from the stock grips and plug'd them back into the harness by the headlight(right and left)and used a resistor to trick the comp into thinking they are still there..ill be putting on some miles tues and wed and will update how it went for the ride..so far everything is great

 

[KING OF THE LAKE]

If your stock grips have 6 to 7 ohms of resistance that is why no heat - out of spec. Max resistance should be 3 ohms for each grip. Get your grips fixed under warranty. Leaving where the grips pluged into the harness empty will cause the code light to flash. Might want to rethink leaving the 10 ohm resister in there as damage may occur down the road. Same problem as new bars for the apex - junk from the start with too much resistance which prohibits voltage to pass thru the grip to create heat.

 

[DITCHBANGER]

i have the shop manual..it clearly states that resistance is 6-7 ohms per grip..not 3..i tested with a 10ohm and i put a 3 ohm resistor,i cant see how a resistor can cause damage,as the handwarmer toggle switch is set to zero bars thus basically no power going through the jumper.the ecu just needs to see there is some ohms in the circuit..thats like saying if you never turn your grips on you will damage something....i absolutely love the sled but i cant sit around and wait 2 winters for yamaha to do something,riding at -30c with frozen fingers is not fun,the big problem is the bar cooling off under a certain rpm,when the grips do heat up 20 miles later they are not too bad in warmth..stop for 3 mins and the darn things are stone cold..my grips were within yammies specs

 

[KING OF THE LAKE]

Ditchbanger, Yes the manual states 6.12 to 7.48 ohms measured at 68 degrees f. That I wont argue with you on , but do you believe everything you read. The 08 apex and vectors use the same replacement heating element part number but there manuals state 1.53 to 1.87 or 1.83 to 2.24 ohms measured at the same temp. Why the differance in resistance spec then if measured the same way? You are going to do what ever you want in the end but just try a set of grips with the lower resistace spec and see what happens. The spec in your 08 nytro manual is wrong - trust me. I am not looking to argue with you or anyone, only trying to help you guys. I have fixed alot of these handwarmer issues for people including myself.

 

[DITCHBANGER]

no problem,i never looked at this as an arguement,and appreciate your comments..;-}..i have no idea on why the apex and nytro have different values,but part of my issue was the non-heat under a certain rpm's even if the lower resistance grip was hotter they dont run under a certain rpm..is this the case on the apex as well?when i pulled the rubber off the bar to see the heating element i wasnt to impressed,no wonder there were cold spots ,with the hotgrips its an even heat with no cold spots,i hope yamaha does have a fix as most would not want to take the route i did,but i couldnt wait..thnx again for posting your info

 

[KING OF THE LAKE]

With the new element bar style on the apexes, yes I believe it to be the same non heat porblem at lower rpms because of the bar wicking away heat from the element since it is glued to the bare bar with no form of insulation between bar and grip element. On a normal grip the element is in the middle so it has an insulation factor. The power is supplied/controlled/varied to the grips thru two ways when plugged into the factory harness - both with a voltage change and electrical pulse width that leave the power going to the grips in shorter or longer durations depending on where you have the setting at. Personally myself, I would plug/splice your new grips into the original harness where the factory ones plugged into, making sure they are wired in parallel. That way you can control them with your setting adjuster just like stock.

 

[unchained]

i have the shop manual..it clearly states that resistance is 6-7 ohms per grip..not 3..i tested with a 10ohm and i put a 3 ohm resistor,i cant see how a resistor can cause damage,as the handwarmer toggle switch is set to zero bars thus basically no power going through the jumper.the ecu just needs to see there is some ohms in the circuit..thats like saying if you never turn your grips on you will damage something....i absolutely love the sled but i cant sit around and wait 2 winters for yamaha to do something,riding at -30c with frozen fingers is not fun,the big problem is the bar cooling off under a certain rpm,when the grips do heat up 20 miles later they are not too bad in warmth..stop for 3 mins and the darn things are stone cold..my grips were within yammies specs

Exactly! Foam insulation in the bar may help a little bit, but the grips need juice at idle so they cant loose all of what little heat was generated before you stopped. I wonder if Yami could develop a reflash for this?????

 

[DITCHBANGER]

With the new element bar style on the apexes, yes I believe it to be the same non heat porblem at lower rpms because of the bar wicking away heat from the element since it is glued to the bare bar with no form of insulation between bar and grip element. On a normal grip the element is in the middle so it has an insulation factor. The power is supplied/controlled/varied to the grips thru two ways when plugged into the factory harness - both with a voltage change and electrical pulse width that leave the power going to the grips in shorter or longer durations depending on where you have the setting at. Personally myself, I would plug/splice your new grips into the original harness where the factory ones plugged into, making sure they are wired in parallel. That way you can control them with your setting adjuster just like stock.

i was going to do that..but the no heat at low rpm made me change my mind..90kms breaking trail today and grips were perfect..

 

[unchained]

I just got a PM from HCS and the person said:

"To get heat, wire the bars in parrell from series. You can find the schematic on Totally Yamaha if you do a search. On 3 bars it's awesome."

Im not an electrician, does this sound logical?

 

[parkindale]

I just got a PM from HCS and the person said:

"To get heat, wire the bars in parrell from series. You can find the schematic on Totally Yamaha if you do a search. On 3 bars it's awesome."

Im not an electrician, does this sound logical?

This is the same question I asked ealier. Someone must know how to do this??

 

[nytrochic]

not enough wind deflection tried a pair of gauntlets & I had 2 turn warmers down 2 low

 

[DITCHBANGER]

not enough wind deflection tried a pair of gauntlets & I had 2 turn warmers down 2 low

but at extreme temps -25c to -40c you need lots of heat