FIXPOWERSPORTS
Extreme
The kit costs $499, you receive primary and secondary springs, new split collars, new rollars, overdrive ring, rivets for weights, gearing, performance belt and a few other small things to bring this kit togeather.
me and my bro just took some meat of the bottom of are primer and are going to take some more off , the first time we did the mod the clutch did close up more but were still not happy so were going to do are own split ring mod and then are clutches are going to close and the belt will ride on the top of the sheaves 
Been There Done That Got the Tshirt have fun replacing belts every 3-400 miles!!!! this is what makes Fix kit so nice i have now been just under 500 miles and no visable belt wear at all.
ROCKERDAN
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tofast said:me and my bro just took some meat of the bottom of are primer and are going to take some more off , the first time we did the mod the clutch did close up more but were still not happy so were going to do are own split ring mod and then are clutches are going to close and the belt will ride on the top of the sheaves
What TOM(muskoka) is referring to is IF you cut too much material on the primary,you will get belt wear at engagement...keep material down to a max of 30thou of each face,totalling 60 thou....this will get belt CLOSE to top...you will need a special cutter on lathe to cut the split collar.or Buy one from hauk i think it was who sells them cut already to widths.
A local guy here was taking too much material off ONE SIDE(fixed sheave) and it resulted in belt wear,TOms was one of those sleds that had too much take off...IF clutch is cut properly it WILL yeild same belt life as stock setup....without issue.
I have another thing now Ill be adding to take away the jerky engagement when cutting primary...Ill post about it when I install it.
Dan
the Wolfman
Veteran
wow! that's amazing....
ROCKERDAN
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The Wolfman said:
Wolf..have you heard of the dial-engage?....nice and simple way to take out the excess side to side clearence after clutch cut...similar to shimming and adjustable...gonna try it...sick of the jerky takoff like we spoke about earlier..
also,Im sure by now you heard of the belts going eh?..LOL...i did another sheave here much better now....
lol
Dan
the Wolfman
Veteran
have my own remedy...I cut shims on the lathe and space out the spider...no jerk and no wear...
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
has anyone compared this clutch kit to ulmers or any other?, it is very expensive and you have to have the dealer use the grunt tool, is it worth it, does it blow the others away?
ROCKERDAN
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The Wolfman said:
I had mine apart other day...was gonna come to you for some shims but had to go riding so put it back together....lol.
But i saw this dial adjust and am gonna check it out...i do want to take out the jerking at engagement like we talked about...it didnt bother me much before but gonna try this now..
thanks
dan
ROCKERDAN
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SharkAttak said:
AS i said a few times..the FIX kit is a great different approach to clutching..it works well but uses other ideas...I tested it along with dalton components and feel they are about same in the end....the difference is with dalton clutching or any other,youll have to add the 23 gear to make it work....while the FIX kit addresses this by adding the 23 gear to their kit...its slick.
IMO,it depends what you already have in your sled....many guys here got the 23 already installed,so you might want to go another route..Ulmers is supposed to work well,and I know my proline(dalton) runs awesome...but i have 23 in it already.
the nice thing about FIX kit,is it addresses two major issues which you would need to do with other kits...the 23 gear,AND the Overdrive.....you would need to cut clutches with other kits,when adding the 23....with FIX kit you get the 23 gear and wide belt setup so no cutting.
Its a great approach to clutch kit for apex...they took what they KNOW makes these sleds rock and made a kit....its not a typical clutch kit but it does make it go!...its abit more money then others but you get Overdrive and gear...so in the end its all up to you.
you can make your own grunt tool,or have dealer do it...takes 2 minutes to change out split collar with tool....dealers shouldnt charge much if anything....most guys know their dealers and this is a quick easy thing to do...
TOM loves his..and I agree its a true competitor.
Dan
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
machzed said:
Dan:, i already have the 23 top gear, i have the attak and it came with that, i have the ulmer stage 2, cr10ek's, windages plates and ram-air, what benefit's would i get if i machine the clutches, do i gain more top end?, do i have to machine both the clutches?
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
machzed said:
I have never understood why you guys are always talking about needing to machine the clutches when only running a 23/38 gear. I had a look at the numbers and can't figure out how you guys are gaining by machining.
Stock these clutches will give you at least a 5% overdrive so you shouldn't run out of gear until 120 mph on radar or about 138 mph on the speedo without revving above 10,750. If you let it rev to 11,000 (from what I've read most of you are doing this even with machining the clutches) you should see 122+ on radar or 140+ on the speedo.
Am I missing something? Are your speeds higher than 122 mph on radar?
ROCKERDAN
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ReX said:
REX,
Ive spoke about this before...and this is true..ive tried to tell people that cutting wont do a damn thing until you get to 120+ on radar...some guys(like me) with certain mods and good radar ice want to KNOW IF we had the opportunity,we would have more GEAR(OD) to go....
I ran 120+ on radar already BEFORE any major cutting...I had only taken off about 20thou at that point...but I was damn close to END of my shift with the 23...had clutches marked.
I dont believe yammie clutches will allow 5%OD stock....i think its much closer to 1 to 1 ration at full shift....
sharkattak:
If youre running 23 with allens kit,Id stick with it...you wont gain anything major with other setups...these are all close,and apex only can go so fast with clutching...
If you have the opportunity to run over 120 on radar,on ICE or roads,ect....you MIGHT want to cut clutches,to be sure you will have more to go,if you had that perfect day.
just remember,cutting too much will yeild major belt issues,as the vertical cut will push against cord on belt...,so keep cutting to 25 thou or so each side,30thou might be on the edge...25 is safer per side IMO...But you still should address the BELT jerk issue...when cutting out material you then have side clearance on each side of belt..you can shim spider to make it more stock like at engagment,or purchase a megapower dial engage.
IMO,cutting is really only for a certain few people who have the power to pull these speeds...
Dan
i have one, it works no better than my straight line kit and it cost a lot more. a waste of money. very lazy feeling, slow back shift.
RacerDave
Expert
You are the first to say anything bad about this kit. Anybody else? rr
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