Fix Power Sports Clutch Kit AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[BADSLED]

Not to hijack the thread, but what do you find is the ideal belt clearance to run on Yamaha primary clutches??

 

[ROCKERDAN]

REX,thanks...I totally now understand what you mean....and I have a feeling this is what SRXracer was trying to relay in his post to me..this does make sense now to me...

I was thinking machining split collar was cutting it for OD,but you mean machine it so fixed sheave basically screws Onto shaft FURTHER,therefore taking up more sidegap to belt....I would think that may throw of the alignement to secondary as well somewhat,wouldn't it?

EXACTLY!! I think we are all on the same page now. This will not effect alignment at all, since you align based on the position of the fixed sheave of the primary.

If you don't realign after machining the split collars the alignment could be out a little.

As SRXracer said, alignment is based on the position of the fixed sheave so if you align the clutches (which I'm sure you guys check on a regular basis) everything will be correct.

this was my first thought,alignment!....

when maching a split collar(thinner overal) this allows fixed back sheave to screw onto the shaft FURTHER,which will work perfectly to take OUT the excess belt sid clearence AFTER a face cut for overdrive.

the fact that we are MOVING that fixed sheave to a different position on the shaft,will now throw OFF our 15mm primary to secondary alignment.

the GOOD thing here is we have moved sheave away from motor,which we can align simply by adding a shim behind secondary,which would be same thickness as what we cut off the split collar.Or simply use the straight bar method and offset to 15mm.The secondary then can eithe be locked down or remove a FRONT shim to allow float.

My question now is,HOW does the FIX KIT allow for proper alignment of 15mm offset?...The FIX kit uses a FATTER split collar for WIDE BELT,which moves fixed sheave CLOSER to motor.....On my apex there is NO WAY to move that seconday CLOSER to frame(back).....so to get that same 15mm offset with fix kit would be impossible.

I know there are some clearance allowances on the alignment specs...I beleive they are +- 1.5mm.....so In reality the 15mm spec could range from 13.5 to 16.5.....I dont think the FIX kit moves the fixed sheave toward motor anymore then 1.5mm,probably less....So i assume alignment is less the 15mm but still falls into the proper spec realm.

FIX POWERSPORTS Im sure did their homework on this kit...I do like the whole theory and approach to this kit,It really is nothing like your typical clutch kit....and for guys who dont want to get into cutting clutches,this really is a nice setup and we know its strong...sure it has some thing other kits dont and some things other kits do..it does react more stock like in its shift patterns with stock flyweights too....

TIM at Fix is a great guy to deal with too...Tom couldnt be happier with his setup...

Dan

 

[ReX]

My question now is,HOW does the FIX KIT allow for proper alignment of 15mm offset?...The FIX kit uses a FATTER split collar for WIDE BELT,which moves fixed sheave CLOSER to motor.....On my apex there is NO WAY to move that seconday CLOSER to frame(back).....so to get that same 15mm offset with fix kit would be impossible.

I know there are some clearance allowances on the alignment specs...I beleive they are +- 1.5mm.....so In reality the 15mm spec could range from 13.5 to 16.5.....I dont think the FIX kit moves the fixed sheave toward motor anymore then 1.5mm,probably less....So i assume alignment is less the 15mm but still falls into the proper spec realm.

Since they are running a wider, longer belt, it will sit up higher in the secondary which moves the face of the belt closest to the center of the sled inwards. So instead of moving the secondary inwards to compensate the surface of the belt itself moves inwards (at the secondary).

Basically the offset spec changes by running a wider, longer belt.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

My question now is,HOW does the FIX KIT allow for proper alignment of 15mm offset?...The FIX kit uses a FATTER split collar for WIDE BELT,which moves fixed sheave CLOSER to motor.....On my apex there is NO WAY to move that seconday CLOSER to frame(back).....so to get that same 15mm offset with fix kit would be impossible.

I know there are some clearance allowances on the alignment specs...I beleive they are +- 1.5mm.....so In reality the 15mm spec could range from 13.5 to 16.5.....I dont think the FIX kit moves the fixed sheave toward motor anymore then 1.5mm,probably less....So i assume alignment is less the 15mm but still falls into the proper spec realm.

Since they are running a wider, longer belt, it will sit up higher in the secondary which moves the face of the belt closest to the center of the sled inwards. So instead of moving the secondary inwards to compensate the surface of the belt itself moves inwards (at the secondary).

Basically the offset spec changes by running a wider, longer belt.

actually the belt is same length,just wider not longer....we had to remove all shims in secondary to get belt to set in correctly...it does work well.

I totally understand what you mean though...luckily there is that +- Offset spec built in to alignment....I want to dive into toms sometime and see how it all looks now with some miles on it and throw my bar on it to see where the alignment actually is.

Dan

 

[ReX]

My question now is,HOW does the FIX KIT allow for proper alignment of 15mm offset?...The FIX kit uses a FATTER split collar for WIDE BELT,which moves fixed sheave CLOSER to motor.....On my apex there is NO WAY to move that seconday CLOSER to frame(back).....so to get that same 15mm offset with fix kit would be impossible.

I know there are some clearance allowances on the alignment specs...I beleive they are +- 1.5mm.....so In reality the 15mm spec could range from 13.5 to 16.5.....I dont think the FIX kit moves the fixed sheave toward motor anymore then 1.5mm,probably less....So i assume alignment is less the 15mm but still falls into the proper spec realm.

Since they are running a wider, longer belt, it will sit up higher in the secondary which moves the face of the belt closest to the center of the sled inwards. So instead of moving the secondary inwards to compensate the surface of the belt itself moves inwards (at the secondary).

Basically the offset spec changes by running a wider, longer belt.

actually the belt is same length,just wider not longer....we had to remove all shims in secondary to get belt to set in correctly...it does work well.

I totally understand what you mean though...luckily there is that +- Offset spec built in to alignment....I want to dive into toms sometime and see how it all looks now with some miles on it and throw my bar on it to see where the alignment actually is.

Dan

Thinking about it a little that would do the same thing. By removing the shims the moving sheave on the secondary will move towards the center of the sled and correct for the change in offset at the primary.

Basically what you've done is move both sheaves closest to the center of the sled further towards the center of the sled by about the same amount. This offset would remain during the entire shift out as well so everything should work out fine - including checking the alignment using a standard clutch alignment tool.

 

[wayno]

Machzed; How do you figure that machining the split collar will change the offset of primary to secondary? The fixed sheave is set on the crank shaft in the same position as it was before machining. The only way to change that position, would be to remachine the taper on the clutch or crank. The fixed sheave does not move.

 

[RacerDave]

The way I understand these Yammie clutchs, the taper is in the post that the fixed sheave threads onto. The taper depth is not changing. By useing the fatter collar the fixed sheave is not threaded on as far, hence its closer to the motor? The threads must have some type of shoulder at the top to stop against the collar? Or am I confused also?

Are the split collars # 2 in the pic?

 

[wayno]

Ricerocket; Thanks for the photo , I can now see how machining the split collar would indeed move the rear sheave further over, and therfore would change the offset between clutches. Like the old saying, a picture is worth a 1000 words.

 

[BlueByYou2000]

Yes, the split collars are #2...BBY

 

[RacerDave]

Yes, the split collars are #2...BBY

BBY, is there some type of shoulder above the threads on the post, that stops against the split coller? Or does their taper tighten against the post stopping it from threading further in?

 

[BlueByYou2000]

Yes, the split collars are #2...BBY

BBY, is there some type of shoulder above the threads on the post, that stops against the split coller? Or does their taper tighten against the post stopping it from threading further in?

I just found some old pics from a bit back that I shared with another member. This first pic is what a stock split collar looks like. The second pic shows where and how much machining gets done. When machined correctly, from cross section fiew it will look like an "L" or a backwards "L" depending on which way you look at it. Hope this helps...BBY

 

[BlueByYou2000]

Also, the fixed sheave is part that tightens against the split collars...BBY

 

[BlueByYou2000]

I dont have any pics of what they look like after they are machined, but the second pic shows how much and where they are cut. Ill check around to see if I can come up with some pics for ya...BBY

 

[badcats]

bottom line its not very good!!!!! and very expensive and you have buy your belts from them.

 

[viperyder]

why how much for his belts badcat?