Fix Power Sports Clutch Kit AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The yammi spider is a one-piece with the center shaft, not threaded on like the poo's.

Mach, we are not talking about 2 separate things here. You can machine the split collars to change the side gap whether you are doing the OD or not, it makes no difference other than the fact that you have machined for OD only means you have to cut the collars further than if you hadn't machined for OD. I don't think you are really understanding how the size of the split collar effects the geometry of the clutch.

Do whatever you want though...
 
machzed said:
SRXracer said:
First of all, i don't know of anyone that shims the spider on a yamaha clutch, i personally would not want a .020 thick shim in there floating free at 8500 rpms. I believe other manuf. sleds allow for this, but i don't think yamaha does, the primarys are built different.

As far as the dial engage is concerned, trust me, the right way to fix this problem is to put the split collars on a surface grinder and machine them to the right thickness. When you reassemble the clutch, the entire movable side of the clutch will slide over whatever the amount you took off the split collars, keeping the relationship between weight and roller the same. This will not change how far the the clutch will shift out. This is exactly how we used to set up our race sleds.

Eric


actually ive spoke to several well known tuners from this site who shim....I personally do not like the idea of something spinning in there either...so Im going to dial engage.

you are still not getting what I mean though....sure you can machine down the split collar to get sheave over more,but if you dont machine face of sheave it will not go any further to OD which is what this whole thread is about....Once you machine faces of sheaves to get OD,then you have more sidegap to belt clearence...therefore the jerky engage and why they either shim or use dial engage...

what you are talking about is more like what FIX KIT does...but in there case the wide belt is used then to get OD.

I think we might be talking about two separate things here...

dan

I shim the primary in my kits...spider gets milled and shim is bonded to the milled area....it stays put...no problems in my drag/radar sled or my guinea pig Apex
 
SRXracer said:
The yammi spider is a one-piece with the center shaft, not threaded on like the poo's.

Mach, we are not talking about 2 separate things here. You can machine the split collars to change the side gap whether you are doing the OD or not, it makes no difference other than the fact that you have machined for OD only means you have to cut the collars further than if you hadn't machined for OD. I don't think you are really understanding how the size of the split collar effects the geometry of the clutch.

Do whatever you want though...

you are saying you can get OD by ONLY working the split collar?...the only way to get OD is to cut the face,which includes the split collar....for OD.

you are talking about maching the collar in another way if I understand you correctly...

Its hard to understand exactly what you mean,maybe you can be much more specific with what youre saying...so I can get a much clearer picture of what you mean.

what I am saying began with the use of the dial engage product to take UP the space clearence to belt...and then you said you can take up the space by somehow machining the split collar differently....Now if this is true,then explain exactly how you can take up that space AND still achieve OD from the face cut.....I just want to understand what you mean,but like i said i have a feeling you and I are talking about two different theories of what we are aiming for....

I just want OD face cut AND no side clearence for smooth engage,and from everyone ive spoke with about it,there are two ways to do it...one is to shim,as the wolfman does(he knows!) and other way would be to use something like the dial-engage which basically moves OVER the moveable sheave closer to belt.

I dont see how ANY other maching of a split collar can bring those sheaves closer to belt,UNLESS you arent cutting it for OD...but we are.

Dan
 
hey Wolf...How is that shim BONDED to spider?...I thought a LOOSE shim in there would be just a problem waiting to blow up...but the bonded shim sounds much better idea...

I recall we spoke about this,and Wolf showed me one of his MULE sleds,which has the smoothest engage ive seen on a OD cut clutch....nice job wolf!

Dan
 
I personaly think there has gt to be something missing in this whole clutch debate. Altough Muskoka Tom and machzed have hot running sleds it is not like they are making a stock sled loo like #*$&@ as other kits do in other sleds. I was very impressed with Toms sleds when riding it, but any other sled I have rode with a clutch kit picked up way more.

I run a stock GT with 144 and I run these two once and a while. Although they beat me it is not like I am getting killed and on most runs am right there till the top.

Is there not a kit out there that makes thse things really wake up? I might just call Allen for shits and giggles to see if I can make this heap faster.

I will be up thursday night Dan Tom and Dan, with or without the kit we are riding so plan something.

Cheers,

Kye
 
Although he didn't say this, maybe he found a wider belt like Fix? What are the OEM Apex belt dimensions? Overall length, width, side angle? Isn't there a belt out there that can be used, ala Fix? How much wider is the Fix belt? rr
 
Machining the split collars brings the fixed sheave closer to the sliding sheave.

It doesn't matter whether the sheaves are machined for OD or not you can still tighten up the belt side clearance by machining the collars (more machining required if the sheaves are machined for OD).

Machining the collars has nothing to do with OD, just side clearance.

Note that the weight geometry changes differently depending on which method you use to adjust side clearance. The dial-engage won't affect the shift rpms but may affect engagement rpm. Machining the collars will somewhat affect shift rpm but won't affect engagement rpm.

(Note I used to do tons of clutching with Polaris's (still have a shelf full of helix's and springs) but I haven't done much with Yamaha's so I don't know exactly how machining the collars affects shift rpms).
 
kurtz said:
I personaly think there has gt to be something missing in this whole clutch debate. Altough Muskoka Tom and machzed have hot running sleds it is not like they are making a stock sled loo like poop as other kits do in other sleds. I was very impressed with Toms sleds when riding it, but any other sled I have rode with a clutch kit picked up way more.

I run a stock GT with 144 and I run these two once and a while. Although they beat me it is not like I am getting killed and on most runs am right there till the top.

Is there not a kit out there that makes thse things really wake up? I might just call Allen for shits and giggles to see if I can make this heap faster.

I will be up thursday night Dan Tom and Dan, with or without the kit we are riding so plan something.

Cheers,

Kye

LOL...kyle,clutch kits arent gonna give ya that much...remember these are 150hp sleds,heavy too....if you get 3-5 sled lenghts in 660 ft that is all you could ever ask for a clutch kit to do...remember the stock clutching on these is pretty decent...

and also rememeber we only ran a short distance on my lake,If we ran a mile or more the distance ahead would be much more...I think youre asking too much from any clutch kit.

We have had all different setups here,we now have a guy with Allens kit too,Doubt it will be any different then the other setups...most kits all achieve similar results but with different means to the same END...improved bottom and mid with similar top....Im just glad mine has more TOP as well!

you missed an amazing ride last friday....ended up at blue mountain ski resort with all the rich hotties!..LOL!

Dan
 
ReX said:
Machining the split collars brings the fixed sheave closer to the sliding sheave.

It doesn't matter whether the sheaves are machined for OD or not you can still tighten up the belt side clearance by machining the collars (more machining required if the sheaves are machined for OD).

Machining the collars has nothing to do with OD, just side clearance.

Note that the weight geometry changes differently depending on which method you use to adjust side clearance. The dial-engage won't affect the shift rpms but may affect engagement rpm. Machining the collars will somewhat affect shift rpm but won't affect engagement rpm.

(Note I used to do tons of clutching with Polaris's (still have a shelf full of helix's and springs) but I haven't done much with Yamaha's so I don't know exactly how machining the collars affects shift rpms).


REX,thanks...I totally now understand what you mean....and I have a feeling this is what SRXracer was trying to relay in his post to me..this does make sense now to me...

I was thinking machining split collar was cutting it for OD,but you mean machine it so fixed sheave basically screws Onto shaft FURTHER,therefore taking up more sidegap to belt....I would think that may throw of the alignement to secondary as well somewhat,wouldn't it?

Who was it that sells the cut split collars?..was it hauk?



thanks
dan
 
machzed hauck powersports sells all different size spit collars
 
REX,thanks...I totally now understand what you mean....and I have a feeling this is what SRXracer was trying to relay in his post to me..this does make sense now to me...

I was thinking machining split collar was cutting it for OD,but you mean machine it so fixed sheave basically screws Onto shaft FURTHER,therefore taking up more sidegap to belt....I would think that may throw of the alignement to secondary as well somewhat,wouldn't it?

EXACTLY!! I think we are all on the same page now. This will not effect alignment at all, since you align based on the position of the fixed sheave of the primary.
 
pro116 said:
machzed hauck powersports sells all different size spit collars

thanks!....i thought I heard Hauck sold these...great to know!


SRXracer...thanks for input here...I just wasnt understanding your wording but now totally got it...

a thinner split collar(overall) would allow fixed sheave to spin on further and reduce belt side clearence..perfect!...love it!...

I was thinking you were talking about when front side(OD cut) of split collar gets cutout...but you mean machine split collars total width.

thanks all...these yammie clutches are as FAR FROM MY DOO clutches that Ive been messing with for 20 yrs as it gets!..LOL..nice to know split collars can be machined in more then the one way i was doing them.

Dan
 
seems to be alot of debate about split collars here...and this is good reading too..but unless the sheaves are cut (sans wide belt kit)..the belt will never ride to top..I have my own method of cutting, blending and shimming that gets the belt up showing it's top cogs with smooth predictable engagement. The spider shim is like I said bonded and also has a .002" interference fit on the mainpost with no trouble so far..I admit I haven't been playing with the Apex for top as much as I'd like to this winter for top end, but I am concentrating more on the extra spectrum that full sheave shifting gives you in the gearing world, and belt reliability.It hasn't been a good year for radar stuff...but I've great results in grass and ice drags with both my V4 and marks Apex.
 
SRXracer said:
REX,thanks...I totally now understand what you mean....and I have a feeling this is what SRXracer was trying to relay in his post to me..this does make sense now to me...

I was thinking machining split collar was cutting it for OD,but you mean machine it so fixed sheave basically screws Onto shaft FURTHER,therefore taking up more sidegap to belt....I would think that may throw of the alignement to secondary as well somewhat,wouldn't it?

EXACTLY!! I think we are all on the same page now. This will not effect alignment at all, since you align based on the position of the fixed sheave of the primary.

If you don't realign after machining the split collars the alignment could be out a little.

As SRXracer said, alignment is based on the position of the fixed sheave so if you align the clutches (which I'm sure you guys check on a regular basis) everything will be correct.
 


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