Float plate vs. skid plate

[AKrider]

I can see pro's and con's to either skid plate. The Roest plate will be stiffer and do a better job protecting the bottom of your motor. The float plate helps keep the front end up in deep snow and also protects the areas under the clutches and oil tank.

In XC racing, one of the biggest issues I've had is the body panels flexing/separating and allowing snow to infiltrate around the drive clutch. In one race in wet sloppy conditions I had snow much snow packed around my clutches that the belt kept slipping and the motor kept over revving and hitting the limiter. That was with the Yamaha skid plate that is a similar design as the Roest. I've also had my clutch side panel flex so much from hitting holes that it pushed the panel into the clutch and rubbed a hole in it. Since I've switched to a Float plate those problems were eliminated. For my riding a float plate is a better choice. Also, you don't have to buy a different front bumper to run the float plate. Just heat it up a little and it will bend to fit your stock front bumper.

 

[Mountaintech]

Good points. I would like to add that the Roest plate works with every bumper out there, that I am aware of. It was not designed to be a XC racers underbody armor. I could have made it larger, but then it would have overlapped or stacked onto plastic body panels. Once you do that you introduce all the problems associated with doing that.......icing, separation, tearing out fasteners etc. Some people thaw their sled out after every ride, others don't and aggravate the problem. I can see why the float plate works for you and that's great.

 

[AKrider]

Whoops, I didn't mean to imply the Roest plate needed a new front bumper, I was referring to the Float plate. I got into a small debate with the parts kids at the Yamaha shop when I said I was going to mount it without the new bumper. He was adament it wouldn't work.


You are right about icing causing issues. My Yamaha's have been the worst sleds I've owned when it comes to icing. Fortunately I can thaw my sleds out after almost every ride. I don't spend much time in the mountain forum but I'm surprised that I don't read about more guys having side panel issues when jumping and landing or sidehilling in wet snow or firm snow. Must not be a problem for the majority because Yamaha hasn't done anything to correct it.

 

[BordnBill]

Good points. I would like to add that the Roest plate works with every bumper out there, that I am aware of.

Actually I had to mod my Roest plate to work with my Timbersled Boonie bumper. I had to notch (2) 1/2" x 1/2" of the plate in order for it to clear the rivets on the Boonie. I also had to taper the front of the plate a little in order for the thickness to work with the boonie because of the tight tolerance between the nose cone and the boonies front plate. Really not a major issue, but it wasn't just a simple install of the bumper, which I thought it was going to be. If I had to do it over, I would still buy the Roest plate.

 

[Mountaintech]

Good points. I would like to add that the Roest plate works with every bumper out there, that I am aware of.

Actually I had to mod my Roest plate to work with my Timbersled Boonie bumper. I had to notch (2) 1/2" x 1/2" of the plate in order for it to clear the rivets on the Boonie. I also had to taper the front of the plate a little in order for the thickness to work with the boonie because of the tight tolerance between the nose cone and the boonies front plate. Really not a major issue, but it wasn't just a simple install of the bumper, which I thought it was going to be. If I had to do it over, I would still buy the Roest plate.

You should take some pics of the affected area.

 

[BordnBill]

Good points. I would like to add that the Roest plate works with every bumper out there, that I am aware of.

Actually I had to mod my Roest plate to work with my Timbersled Boonie bumper. I had to notch (2) 1/2" x 1/2" of the plate in order for it to clear the rivets on the Boonie. I also had to taper the front of the plate a little in order for the thickness to work with the boonie because of the tight tolerance between the nose cone and the boonies front plate. Really not a major issue, but it wasn't just a simple install of the bumper, which I thought it was going to be. If I had to do it over, I would still buy the Roest plate.

You should take some pics of the affected area.

I will try to see if I can get some good angles for pictures. As it sits now, the Boonie Bumper is super tight to the nose plastic. If you add any thickness to it, then the boonies lower mounts will not line up. Just that little few inches that the Roest Plate tucks under the nose plastic causes this issue. And the rivets for the boonie bumpers skid plate sticks out far enough at the very top of the Roest Plate causing it not to line up that way as well. Like I said, I will try to snap a few photo's.

 

[akvector]

This was from my last ride. Can not wait for the shorty to be available!!!

 

[BordnBill]

Here's the best pictures I could get of the tight fit between the Roest Plate and the lower rivets of the Boonie Bumper. Rivets in the Boonie are located about the same spot, on the bottom as the mount bolts you see.

 

[BordnBill]

These are the rivets on the Boonie that are in the way of the Roest Plate.

 

[BordnBill]

And this is the best angle I could get of the back of the rivet that seems to be in the way. Like I said, you just notch out a small part on the very front of the Roest Plate and it will be enough to clear these rivets. I also had to remove about 1" of the bottom of the plastic nose cone. With the plastic and Roest Plate on top of each other, it cause too much thickness so the bottom mounts of the Boonie would not line up.

 

[wackmandoo]

Wider is better when talking skiis. The skid is the way then get your floatation from Simmons GenII's. I've ridden both alot and the skid is FAR cleaner and doesnt shovel ever.