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FPP Trail Turbo Apex build-up with MoTeC and other tricks

gouldsjett1

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Any help you need, let us know. :rocks:
This site definitely rocks. I appreciate all the members who are willing to help and save others headaches. I'll post results of my project when I can get some run time. We have no snow here in Maine right now, so it may be a while. Bummer.
 

kinger

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Mounting the MoTeC and Harness

After getting the engine installed and most of the sled back together, and after also converting the sled from a 121" Apex to a 136" Attak (BTW, I compiled an electronic Excel list of required parts for that conversion with yamaha p/n's I can share), now it was time to install the MoTeC ECU and Plug & Play harness from Martin.
I had him wire it out of the chute for a switch for the dual Calibration Map, a stutter / 2-step button, and a switch for data logging. Pretty much just unplug & remove the stock ECU and plug-in the adapter harness he supplies with the kit. I removed the factory ECU mounting bracket all together, but because you still have to run the stock baro sensor that mounts to that bracket, I just zip tied it off to one of old ECU bracket mounting holes.

I had already made the decision to mount the MoTeC ECU in the nose of the sled because of the un-used space. I dont have a whole lot of options behind or under the bulkhead where the stock ECU was since it's pretty cramped with the Weldon oil scavenge pump for the rear mount turbo setup, etc.
This made the routing of the adapter harness from the stock harness real easy with no tight bends or rubbing potential, running the harness thru the right side large port in the bulkhead.

The bulkhead made a good heat sink to mount the KTC and IGN4 modules to, and also made the CAN plug easily accessible to plug a USB cable into for downloading logs or making quick changes to tables, etc.
I fabricated a mounting plate that also served as a mounting point for a bigger fuel pump that was planned in the future. The ECU mounts on the underside using the insulated mounting brackets and hardware that was provided with the kit. This keeps it protected and out of harms way, as well.
I mounted the relay on the inside of the hoop in front of the battery, next to where I have my additional Bosch relays for my turbo oil scavenge pump and supplimental fuel pump. Also protected from the elements by the intercooler, as well.

I got my motec in and ready to install. Mine has the knock sensor add on. Is the install just plug it all in then mount it securely? There is about 5lbs of wire that come with it with added plug ins I'm sure for more accessories or modules later. You just tie them away from everything? No special wiring for the IGN4 to the coils it just uses stock wiring to drive them? Thanks for the help!
 

kinger

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Intake Air Temperature Sensor mounting in intercooler

Typical of turbo or SC kits using a piggyback controller, the factory IAT sensor just gets hung in the ambient air. The MoTeC, like the factory ECU, uses the intake air temperature readings to adust fuel and ignition via compensation tables, which with boosted applications results in very fine control and more safe HP.

FPP Justin simply drilled a hole with a lead-in chamfer for the tip of the sensor to protrude into the airbox nearest the throttle bodies so it reads the air temp AFTER the intercooler that the engine is actually seeing. He threaded a M5 hole to fasten it and it is sealed in the chamfer by the o-ring it already has on it. All I had to do was lengthen the OEM harness in order to reach the new location, relative to where it normally is located in the stock plastic air box.

Interesting point, I actually re-configured the MoTeC dash output signal so that the factory BARO display at the bottom of the Speedo Gauge now reads out the intake air temp in Deg Celsius...
NOTE dont get fooled... the Baro display only goes down so far in low digits before it stops changing, like 3 deg C because it becomes out of range for a barometer reading. So what happens when its really cold out and you first start up, or your intake air temp is below that display threshold, the display appears to be frozen and not change misleading you to think your sensor is bad... or the signal is lost.
In reality there is no trouble code or warning light triggered so it just needs to get above that display threshold before it starts to display real time again


I did this exact same thing and on cold start my intake air temp measures 11,822 degrees until it warms up, lowest I saw was 32 degrees as it was warming up. You say that the baro range cannot display it but it may be the IAT sensor only goes so low. I had a cold start issue and I don't think I am using IAT on cold start but I would like to find a sensor that will read accurately when cold.
 

mbarryracing

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My Baro read out on my stock dash only goes so low before it freezes and won't display any lower digits but the true IAT sensor readings via the motec are fine for me, behind the scenes functioning as intended.
The factory Apex IAT sensor is perfectly adaquate, trust me because it has to be for the stock ECU to work under 32 deg... The stock ECU doesn't guess.
For the motec you set the sensor calibration so the range corresponds. Check your sensor cal under adjust/sensor setup/input setup, double click on the Inlet Air Temp (IAT) and then click on "Table" to see the range voltage cal. It should be setup for 140 at min voltage to -20C at max voltage.
No way a 0 to 5 v sensor range will tell the motec 11,822 deg unless a fat finger entry in the table...

Also the Motec would throw an error if the IAT signal was that far wacked to read 11,822 degrees
 
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kinger

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My Baro read out on my stock dash only goes so low before it freezes and won't display any lower digits but the true IAT sensor readings via the motec are fine for me, behind the scenes functioning as intended.
The factory Apex IAT sensor is perfectly adaquate, trust me because it has to be for the stock ECU to work under 32 deg... The stock ECU doesn't guess.
For the motec you set the sensor calibration so the range corresponds. Check your sensor cal under adjust/sensor setup/input setup, double click on the Inlet Air Temp (IAT) and then click on "Table" to see the range voltage cal. It should be setup for 140 at min voltage to -20C at max voltage.
No way a 0 to 5 v sensor range will tell the motec 11,822 deg unless a fat finger...

Also the Motec would throw an error if the IAT signal was that far wacked to read 11,822 degrees
My sensor is set up exact same as yours when comparing the files. I wonder if mine is just bad? I should have hooked up my PC when it was cold, missed opportunity!
 

mbarryracing

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It's reading +11,822 Deg C on the motec screen or data log?
There are Lo and Hi Diagnostic limits set, so when it reaches the ends of the ranges the Motec sets an error flag because the sensor is going out of range and then the Motec defaults to a defined deg like 30 deg in the input setup. If your sensor is bad and is out of range, the Motec will have set an error flag and will have assumed the default temp. If it's -20 deg out and it is defaulting to +30 deg, could be your cold start issue.
 
Last edited:

mbarryracing

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kinger,

Oh Ok, yeah just a dash reading is more likely a data configuration then a real sensor problem. The only way to dispel that one way or another is hook up the laptop and monitor the direct IAT value, now you just need cold enough air temps to test in.
Since the sensor calibration is correct, a bad sensor signal (if wired correctly) has to be between 0 volts and 5 volts so with the corresponding temp range in the calibration it can't even get you to a 11,882 deg value.
Your cold start fuel % are higher than mine so you might just be as simple as you are flogging it with too much fuel when cold starting.
 

kinger

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kinger,

Oh Ok, yeah just a dash reading is more likely a data configuration then a real sensor problem. The only way to dispel that one way or another is hook up the laptop and monitor the direct IAT value, now you just need cold enough air temps to test in.
Since the sensor calibration is correct, a bad sensor signal (if wired correctly) has to be between 0 volts and 5 volts so with the corresponding temp range in the calibration it can't even get you to a 11,882 deg value.
Your cold start fuel % are higher than mine so you might just be as simple as you are flogging it with too much fuel when cold starting.
0240195C-BA7E-45A2-AA7A-0B30EB8B03F4.jpeg


That might be right. You can see the IAT matches the ET which is not correct. I wish I would have plugged in my laptop and looked at what the Motec was seeing. When I started this I was hopeful this dash would be an exact replica of the Motec because of the canbus communication. It good be a dash issue.
 


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