sledsearcher
Extreme
Okay, newb question I am sure. I don't have my manual available and cannot get the bottom bolt out of the shock/bracket. It appears you have to remove the idlers which I am struggling with as well. Any help?! I have removed skids/shocks before but I am irritated to no end here.
mach9
TY 4 Stroke Master
Yep, you will need to pull the front lower shaft out. Look for the set screws that hold the alum. end blocks on the shaft.
Then slide the blocks off and the wheels will move and you can slide the lower shock bolt out.
Then slide the blocks off and the wheels will move and you can slide the lower shock bolt out.
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
Drill a hole in the wheel if you want to be able to remove the bolt with out removing everything else next time. I believe this is what Polaris does/did. OK if you want it to be balanced then drill two holes, take it to the local balancing company and pay 1 million dollars to have them build a idler wheel balancing tool. Then you should be good. OR... just drill the hole, and don't worry about it, cause the bearings are only $3.00 anyway, I don't think you'll feel any vibration.
xtxcaptain
Lifetime Member
rear skid shock
get your self an impact gun that is the only way i could get mine apart with out rounding off the bolt heads, and yes i was using the proper size socket and i even tried heat thinking there maybe thread locking used but once i got it apart there was no thread locking its just held together by torque.
xtxcaptain
get your self an impact gun that is the only way i could get mine apart with out rounding off the bolt heads, and yes i was using the proper size socket and i even tried heat thinking there maybe thread locking used but once i got it apart there was no thread locking its just held together by torque.
xtxcaptain
sledsearcher
Extreme
Yeah, I got everything apart and the shocks are off to be re-valved. I didn't notice the set screw in the spacer. I still think its sill to have to remove all of that to get the shock out.
One thing I will say for my Nytro, they torque the crap out of nuts and bolts or use red loctite!
I should preface that I am coming off an F7 which was put together by a 10 year old and most bolts rattled loose anyway so maybe my expectations of torque are a bit off...
One thing I will say for my Nytro, they torque the crap out of nuts and bolts or use red loctite!
I should preface that I am coming off an F7 which was put together by a 10 year old and most bolts rattled loose anyway so maybe my expectations of torque are a bit off...
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
Yeah, gotta love the coarse thread bolts on the Cats. If you don't use loctite on the F7 you'll be sitting on the trail with a seat and a pile of parts around you.
yamahabandit
Expert
Not to mention the weight saving by drilling holes in the wheel. LOLLJ 452 said:Drill a hole in the wheel if you want to be able to remove the bolt with out removing everything else next time. I believe this is what Polaris does/did. OK if you want it to be balanced then drill two holes, take it to the local balancing company and pay 1 million dollars to have them build a idler wheel balancing tool. Then you should be good. OR... just drill the hole, and don't worry about it, cause the bearings are only $3.00 anyway, I don't think you'll feel any vibration.