Fuse Box Access

[rebmo]

I just got past a defective battery warranty replacement and took the 15 R-TX-DX for a ride today. It fired up in the very cold 0-12F temps the last couple days. But, I noticed another issue. None of the idiot lights are coming on at start up or when high beams are activated, the oil pressure, overtemp, High beam, etc.. (the 4 lights across the top of the cluster). I don't recall them ever coming on and I was thinking they must come on at startup as a check. The manual refers to them and does not give any info that would indicate they could be toggled off.

So anyway, I thought I'd check the fuses. I don't have a shop manual so don't know if there is a separate fuse for the "idiot lights". The 2 white gauges and the Yamaha light come on below the idiot lights on the cluster. I went to check the fuse box and discovered you have to take the hood off to get to it? What? So now after multiple problems on a brand new sled (stripped screws, missing seat heater switch, defective battery) now a partially dead gauge cluster. I'm getting a bit frustrated. The dealer has been taking care of me but I have more miles on my trailer than the sled so far.

Can anyone tell me if there is a separate fuse for the idiot lights, so I don't have to remove the hood just to check the fuses. I did check the owners manual and of course no reference to the fuse block.

Any advice appreciated.

BTW, My first ride today the sled REALLY pushed bad in corners. I did not expect it to be that bad. The skis did not bite at all (stock) and it was very tippy/unstable when I did get the back end out exiting turns. So far not at all impressed but need to dial it in. Currently My 2001 SXR-700 would kill this sled in cornering. I'm 190lbs, 6'-1". Any advice on where to start to get the massive push out? Sled is stock.

 

[cannondale27]

Dual aggressive offset carbides would be biggest bang for $ then revalve

 

[rebmo]

It seems like the back end is hooking up like glue and the front wants to lift at even at a blip of the throttle. So pulling the front end up is nice, but with the skis off the ground or one of 2 it pushes badly. Even with dual carbides if they are not touching/or barely touching the trail surface I would think I'm still going to have push. What is the first step to get less back end transfer(hookup) without mods. If I could get the back end to break loose a little easier I think the skis would be more effective and get the pivot to get me around the turns. It seems odd that the sled would push this much?

Also, I might be the idiot. I started up the sled and checked the high beam indicator and that works. I just didn't recall the "low temp" indicator flashing when I started it. On a 2015 shouldn't you see a warning low temp and the idiot light flashing until it reaches safe operating temp? This is what the manual says, but I don't recall seeing that. I did let it warm up to about 185-192F before operating. Also, what temp does the light go out, the owner's manual does not specify.

Thanks!

 

[JTSKIR222]

fuse box location sucks..
if there was a little extra wire you could flip it towards the belt so you can at least get to it..
but not enough..
anyone else try anything?

 

[rebmo]

It looks like they could have mounted it 90 degrees and you could see/access it. Just a component shoved in there I guess without any concern for access. Well at least I don't think my issue is a fuse blown if the hi-beam indicator is working. Looking to find at what temp F the low temp warning lights are supposed to stop.

 

[NosGTSR]

68f If I remember correctly.

 

[WVTurboLTX]

Are you keeping the sled in a heated garage? The low temp light turns off pretty early. If I store mine in my garage I never see it come on.

 

[rebmo]

I keep it in a 2-up outside. Since it turns off early in the warm up cycle I may have missed it focusing on the replacement battery. I was thinking it probably came on when near full operating temperature. It was still 140f when I checked the high beam indicator so my expectation of seeing it on was wrong. I'll try it cold today and see if the "low temp" warning activates. Thanks for the info. I need to become a member and get the shop manual, hopefully some of this info is in there.

 

[rebmo]

Sure enough. I got out today and started it up cold and the "low temp" warning light went on as well as the gauge warning. So false alarm, I thought my indicator was not working but it does come up to 68F and then go out. So no blown fuse in my gauge cluster. I also notices just a slight flicker across all 4 idiot lights when I started it up. They did not fully light, just a flicker. So thanks again for the info. Now I need to work on the excessive push before I go up to Hayward in a couple weeks.

 

[john ca 99]

Well I just got back from northern quebec ride 600 miles sled started -33 C one day and ran fine my gauge cluster also didn't come on for some time next day -24 C sled started then quit wouldn't start turned out fuel pump relay froze nice to have to tear sled apart to get to relay at these temps once relay was warm sled ran good all day but if this is going to happen when it gets cold on a regular bases I only ride in winter. I will now just change relay hoping a new one wont fail but im told this is normal.

 

[Wannaviper]

Well I just got back from northern quebec ride 600 miles sled started -33 C one day and ran fine my gauge cluster also didn't come on for some time next day -24 C sled started then quit wouldn't start turned out fuel pump relay froze nice to have to tear sled apart to get to relay at these temps once relay was warm sled ran good all day but if this is going to happen when it gets cold on a regular bases I only ride in winter. I will now just change relay hoping a new one wont fail but im told this is normal.

Must be something in the air of northern Quebec. My buddy's Vector had the same issue in sub-zero cold when we were at Lac St. Jean a couple of years ago!