gearing question

boondoggle

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I'm doing some research, getting ready to buy a 151 track for my mtx. I'd like some info about clutching and gearing. Basically I'd like to know if I really need to change anything and if so to what.

What is the stock gearing?

A basic explanation of how different gearing setups work will also be appreciated.
 
what is your altitude ? for low elavation its 19 top tooth and theres rivets in the weights . but high elavation the mtx got 17 top tooth , and only one rivet in the weight . Im at sea level and i geared down to 17 top and added alot of hp . 151 makes this sled totaly different . you can go alot more places . well worth it . i got 2.3 inch challenger track on mine .
 
yzman, I'm at low altitude but the sled was a leftover that yamaha sold to the dealer I bought from. So, I'm not sure where the sled came from originally. The dealer doesn't know. I'm going to guess that it is set up for low altitude.

Are you saying you got a hp gain just from going to the 17 tooth?

I'm not too concerned with losing some top end if that happens. I just want to know if the sled is going to perform poorly if I change the track length and not the gearing/clutching.

Did you do an extension or move the skid back?

I probably won't go with a taller lug. I think I'll stay with 2" since I necessarily do a lot of trail riding also.
 
i did a extension . but i gained alot of track speed while in powder with the 17 top .i dont know if theres a hp gain to the track . but it makes a difference
 
There is a secret to to clutching when trying to gain track speed while climbing witch puts everything under load, you can spend lots of money on different clutching set ups and hope to find what works or you can gear down witch makes a big improvement and you will only loose about 2-3 mph on the top end. If you ride sealevel you can keep 19t top gear and add heavier rivets to primary and stiffen up secondary and it will work great. IMO this sled could handle a 3 inch paddle and still turn it no problem. Im in the prosses of doing skid set back witch will save you over a 100 bucks when going to the 151. (eliminate the rail extentions) But you will have to fabricate some brackets for rear suspension attatch point.
 
Thanks guys.

So it sounds like the lower tooth gear means more track speed at first (torque) but less on the top end. Is that right?

Right now I'm leaning toward leaving the clutching and gearing stock and seeing how it does. But I prefer not to do the work twice. So if there is something I should definitely do now while I have the sled apart, I'd rather do it. How big a job is switching out that gear?

Tbyrd, keep me posted on how your setback works out. Pictures are always welcome.
 
Switching the gear is pretty strightforward . If you have done it before . But for my clutch set up . I got a smb clutch kit . plus custom helix . ive got the 3.6g rivet on my outter weight hole and 4 g on the inner . my helix settings is b-1 . ive had it on c-2. good back shift . but it over revs times ten .. ive also got a shim on my primary spring to higher my engagement . if you want some clutching help call chris at smb . he will hook you up with a good clutch kit .
 
Switching the gear is pretty strightforward . If you have done it before . But for my clutch set up . I got a smb clutch kit . plus custom helix . ive got the 3.6g rivet on my outter weight hole and 4 g on the inner . my helix settings is b-1 . ive had it on c-2. good back shift . but it over revs times ten .. ive also got a shim on my primary spring to higher my engagement . if you want some clutching help call chris at smb . he will hook you up with a good clutch kit .

You lost me there Yz. All greek. It sounds like I will definitely need help if I mess with the clutching. What is smb?
 
i wrote it wrong , sorry it supposed to be sbm , and thats short for Schmidt Bros Motorsports. They make a bunch of parts for yamaha sleds
 


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