craigjschr
Extreme
I am going to change the oil and filter grease the jack shaft and lower bearing change the chain case oil and open the case look it over check the spark plugs grease all zerks change the coolant and check the exhaust doughts and y pipes and check front bushings. is their any thing else i should do to the sled i have (2) 2006 apexs with about 2700 miles on them one GT and one ER. i am also going to have the shocks rebuilt in the fall.
Thanks
craig
Thanks
craig
APEX 06
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I think you got most of it. Or you will fine it when looking.
Snowmobileaddict
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Pop a seal off each idler wheel bearing with a dentist type pick and regrease them. If you do this at least every spring you'll be shocked how long they will last.
You can get picks like that from harbor freight for cheap.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1816
A small flatbalde jeweler screwdriver will work too.
You can get picks like that from harbor freight for cheap.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1816
A small flatbalde jeweler screwdriver will work too.
craigjschr
Extreme
how hard is it to change the sliders out.
APEX 06
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Just pull the skid out and it will go easy. Look at this it will help out big time http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
If you don't want to pull the skid to change the hifax it can be done easy.
Loosen track and remove screws in slider. Hard part is going through the holes in the track to get the slider out enough to grap with vise grip. Take your time it will sled out easy. Spray WD40 to the inside of the sled and slide them on, put srew in with blue lock tite and your done.
When you grease the wheels use a good low temp grease like: Amsoil low temp wet grease its purple. Stuff sticks and stays in the bearings. DON"T over GREASE.
Loosen track and remove screws in slider. Hard part is going through the holes in the track to get the slider out enough to grap with vise grip. Take your time it will sled out easy. Spray WD40 to the inside of the sled and slide them on, put srew in with blue lock tite and your done.
When you grease the wheels use a good low temp grease like: Amsoil low temp wet grease its purple. Stuff sticks and stays in the bearings. DON"T over GREASE.
Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Get your W arm strengthend by the guy on this site...Welterracer??? Or buy a 08 arm. 08 arm is more expensive.
Grease upper and lower drive bearing on clutch side. They are probably nice and dry now!
Take rear suspension out and go over it. Get shocks rebuilt while its out.
Check the RA cable.
I'll think of more....
Grease upper and lower drive bearing on clutch side. They are probably nice and dry now!
Take rear suspension out and go over it. Get shocks rebuilt while its out.
Check the RA cable.
I'll think of more....
craigjschr
Extreme
Thanks keep it comeing
craigjschr
Extreme
is thier a post on doing those upper and lower bearings or is it in the service manual. just looking for it and cant find it. also is the yamaha snowmobile grease any good.
craigjschr
Extreme
the RA cable is just on the ER rite bc the gt is electric controled
APEX 06
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craigjschr said:
Its every easy to do you just pull off the clutch and then take the seal out with a pick and clean out the old with carb cleaner or WD40. For the other one Pull off the 3 nuts that are on the bottom one and the one nut that holds the gear on and there is the bearing.
craigjschr
Extreme
ok i know what your talking about the spedo bearings and jack saft thanks
craigjschr
Extreme
do the apex have the bleed bold in the rear of the sled
craigjschr
Extreme
also i was wondering if i should just buy new doughts for the exhuast so i have them or wait and see what they look like.
Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I would buy the donuts so you have them. Even if it doesn't need them now, it will.
Bleed valve is under the black piece of plastic at rear of sled. 4 bolts in tunnel to remove it.
I think if you look at the track removal link, you'll be able to get a good idea on how to remove the clutch side lower bearing. Its easier if the skid is out. I always use brake cleaner to flush them, compressed air to blow them out and then a coating of WD-40 and then blow out again with compressed air. At this point the bearing should rotate very smoothly. If not, replace. Then I use a syringe pump (with no syringe on it!) to pump grease in. Use anti-sieze on the driveshaft where the bearing goes...makes it easier to take off next time and blue loc-tite on the 2 set screws. The upper bearing is useally not near as bad as the lower.
I do all my idler wheels this way and still use 3 of the originals with 14,000 miles on them.
The ER has the RA cable.
I would assume the Yamaha grease is good to go but I use sythetic low temp grease.
Bleed valve is under the black piece of plastic at rear of sled. 4 bolts in tunnel to remove it.
I think if you look at the track removal link, you'll be able to get a good idea on how to remove the clutch side lower bearing. Its easier if the skid is out. I always use brake cleaner to flush them, compressed air to blow them out and then a coating of WD-40 and then blow out again with compressed air. At this point the bearing should rotate very smoothly. If not, replace. Then I use a syringe pump (with no syringe on it!) to pump grease in. Use anti-sieze on the driveshaft where the bearing goes...makes it easier to take off next time and blue loc-tite on the 2 set screws. The upper bearing is useally not near as bad as the lower.
I do all my idler wheels this way and still use 3 of the originals with 14,000 miles on them.
The ER has the RA cable.
I would assume the Yamaha grease is good to go but I use sythetic low temp grease.
