Getting the viper to hook up

[Studroes144]

My question is: how many people have started playing with their viper and getting it to hook up better? I have plenty of studs in mine and they are 1.5" so traction isn't the issue I'm seeing. This is only something I've notice with a real hard packed snow. From a dead stop or even rolling at like 15 mph and punch it the sled will instantly hook and pull the front end up just a little bit but then it feels like the rear suspension almost let's loose and the track will spin and then hook up again. I haven't adjusted anything on the skid so that is just how it came and I'm not familiar with the procross chassis as far as setting it up for conditions like this. What I'm looking for is if anyone has made adjustment on their viper or even cat sleds to eliminate this issue. We just got 24"+ of fresh snow and put about 10 miles on tonight and the sled is awesome in the deep stuff. Gets on top of the snow and floats. I know others complained they thought the sled felt front heavy and would just trench but I didn't notice this one bit.

 

[sk-rx1]

Any more talk of bringing your sled to Woodgate? Or especially a audio clip of the quiet exhaust, maybe with a db measurement? Are the exhausts available yet? Must be nice to get some real snow, hope to get out next week. My RTX got delayed until tomorrow so it's time to start accessorizing.

 

[Studroes144]

Not for sure if my sled will be at the Shootout or not. I know there has been a lot of preparing to other sleds that will be running in the shoutout so haven't been able to focus a lot on my viper or getting an exhaust on it. Would love to post some pics and videos for u guys to check but I'm just the customer so I can't push them to hard to keep moving on the viper when there are other sleds that need to be ready by the weekend. Fingers are crossed and still hoping that I'll have an exhaust on it soon. Gonna be doing some final touches on the clutch kit tomorrow. I was asked if my clutches could be used for the dealer prep viper at the shootout so even if my entire sled isn't there the clutches will atleast be there lol. Hopefully the clutch kit on the viper at the shootout will feel as good and look as fast as mine does. Mine is clutched for a sled that is making full hp. A brand new viper is going to be close to 10 hp less so the clutch kit may not show much if any results but believe me it rocks!

 

[snowbeast]

My question is: how many people have started playing with their viper and getting it to hook up better? I have plenty of studs in mine and they are 1.5" so traction isn't the issue I'm seeing. This is only something I've notice with a real hard packed snow. From a dead stop or even rolling at like 15 mph and punch it the sled will instantly hook and pull the front end up just a little bit but then it feels like the rear suspension almost let's loose and the track will spin and then hook up again. I haven't adjusted anything on the skid so that is just how it came and I'm not familiar with the procross chassis as far as setting it up for conditions like this. What I'm looking for is if anyone has made adjustment on their viper or even cat sleds to eliminate this issue. We just got 24"+ of fresh snow and put about 10 miles on tonight and the sled is awesome in the deep stuff. Gets on top of the snow and floats. I know others complained they thought the sled felt front heavy and would just trench but I didn't notice this one bit.

Where are your transfer blocks set at,and how about your straps,if your straps are lose and your blocks are set to full transfer you should be able to stand it straight up.

 

[vsmpowered]

what day n time is woodgate shootout?

 

[Studroes144]

Shoot out is Friday I believe. Do the ltx models have transfer blocks? If so could someone point me in the right direction there. Brand new to this chassis so some help from the cat guys will come in handy!

 

[Studroes144]

My straps are on the loosest setting and suspension is set at it's softest so with those two things like that I feel the sled should not spin at all with the conditions I was in and the number of studs I have. The 2 xf7000 sleds I drove both def had more weight transfer. Just need to find those adjusters so I can slowly dial them in

 

[vsmpowered]

maybe the rear shock needs to be softer

 

[Studroes144]

Does anyone have a definite yes or no answer to wether or not the sled has anyway to adjust weight transfer?

 

[sk-rx1]

Don't have mine yet but I'm 90% sure that it does. Look at the rear arm in the suspension. You can see that as the suspension compresses the arm will move rearward and hit a stop block. The block is not symmetrical about it's mount, you can rotate the block so the arm moves further before it hits the block stop. More free movement gives more transfer, less free movement couples the suspension to reduce ski lift. I believe you may have to loosen the bolt to rotate the block, not sure on that. Hope this makes sense.

 

[Studroes144]

Don't have mine yet but I'm 90% sure that it does. Look at the rear arm in the suspension. You can see that as the suspension compresses the arm will move rearward and hit a stop block. The block is not symmetrical about it's mount, you can rotate the block so the arm moves further before it hits the block stop. More free movement gives more transfer, less free movement couples the suspension to reduce ski lift. I believe you may have to loosen the bolt to rotate the block, not sure on that. Hope this makes sense.

Will check this out tomorrow. Thanks for the info and will report back if I find it or need more guidance

 

[snowbeast]

Don't have mine yet but I'm 90% sure that it does. Look at the rear arm in the suspension. You can see that as the suspension compresses the arm will move rearward and hit a stop block. The block is not symmetrical about it's mount, you can rotate the block so the arm moves further before it hits the block stop. More free movement gives more transfer, less free movement couples the suspension to reduce ski lift. I believe you may have to loosen the bolt to rotate the block, not sure on that. Hope this makes sense.

Will check this out tomorrow. Thanks for the info and will report back if I find it or need more guidance

If you look at the bar that sits behind the rear torque arm,where your torsion springs are,near the bottom just above the rail,this rod goes from side to side on the inside of the skid,and each side has a retangle black plastic block,now you can move each block by itself,you have to losen the nut and bolt,and turn it to either the shorter of the ends or the longer,if you want more transfer you want the skid to slide back to the rear more before it starts to couple to the front arm,so make the blocks shorter,so the arm has to travel further back before it starts to transfer wqeight off the front.

 

[Studroes144]

Thanks for the help guys. This will totally change how the sled will launch once I get it dialed in

 

[snowbeast]

Almost forgot,if your torsion springs are in there stiffest setting that may also prevent transfer,soften them up to there sofest setting,you have 3 settings on the block,and you adjust it with a spark plyg wrench.

 

[Studroes144]

Almost forgot,if your torsion springs are in there stiffest setting that may also prevent transfer,soften them up to there sofest setting,you have 3 settings on the block,and you adjust it with a spark plyg wrench.

Those are set on the softest setting