OneBadWarrior
Expert
Hey guys I am taking the step over to the wonderful world of boosted sleds! I am very new to this but have good knowledge of the systems involved. (20+ years as a mechanic) My question here is do you think it is better to buy a kit or build one from scratch? Is it wise to buy a used kit? I'm not looking for a stage 3 300 hp set up but something with a smooth 220 sounds nice!!! My sled is an 05 Warrior which is carbed. Hopefully this won't complicate the process too much. Also I have an Excell exhaust which I don't want to give up so I'm looking for a front mount style. Bring on the recommendations!!! 
FLYBYU
VIP Member
Give up the Excell exhaust and go with Mcxpress and be done with it. Speaking out with alot of experience with front mount and now currently dead in the garage with a cracked front mount header. You won't have that with a rear mount
rx1 fern
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
you still have your headaches with a rear mount also.you have cracked pipes and donuts leaking.plus nothing pulls as hard as a front mount turbo set up right.thats the joy of having all that power.lol
Nytro19
Veteran
Lots of heat and weight with the front mount system. Rear mount with the OFT exhaust doughnuts and you'll be laughing. The long charge tube helps deliver a cold charge to the intake as well.
mbarryracing
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Ah, the old front mount versus rear mount debate... I can't speak for front mounts but I personally have over 3K miles on my rear mount at 12 psi with no cracked headers or pipes, but did have the normal donut leaks (that is typical on the stocker) until I put in the copper donuts and solved that.
A few front mounts I rode with had habitual cracked headers after almost every ride (some, not all) until they got tired of always wrenching on them and dumped them for SC's. One had a log manifold that worked good and the other ones are just for racing so don't get ridden often.
The front mounts do spool quickly, no doubt, but in reality that ends up being pointless when you can't get all that power to the snow and have to take it away with clutching anyhow??? With the right turbo combination the rear mounts are responsive. My rear mount FPP is responsive enough that I still have to subdue it with clutching so it doesn't just blitz the track and so it actually accelerates harder on the trail, cruising at 25 mph and hit the throttle it almost rips your arms out of their sockets and you really need to be paying attention. However, boost level has a lot to do with this too, 7psi doesn't rip as hard as 12...
I think turbo lag on the trail turbo's has everything to do with the heavy clutching and helix angles you have to run to keep all that power harnessed... and rear mounts got a bad rap in the past for some real bad clutching, I know because I had it.
Clutch tuning options have come a long way in the past few years...
There might be a reason that the current fastest time on asphault is with a rear mount turbo???
For trail riding I have logged enough data to show that the intake temps stay pretty cool on my rear mount with the snow cooler in the tunnel (within 30 degF of ambient temp when cruising) and under 90 degF after short several second blasts under boost). I actually am displaying the intake air temp on my dash now. This way I found a pretty good correlation between charge air temps and slider lubrication, when there is low snow dust and the sliders are on fire (melting and smell) then there also isn't enough snow to cool the tunnel snow intercooler either and hence the intake temps are higher. When the sliders have enough snow dust to lube correctly, the temps also stay down... Total proof to me the rear mount tunnel snow intercooler / charge tube is a benefit.
A few front mounts I rode with had habitual cracked headers after almost every ride (some, not all) until they got tired of always wrenching on them and dumped them for SC's. One had a log manifold that worked good and the other ones are just for racing so don't get ridden often.
The front mounts do spool quickly, no doubt, but in reality that ends up being pointless when you can't get all that power to the snow and have to take it away with clutching anyhow??? With the right turbo combination the rear mounts are responsive. My rear mount FPP is responsive enough that I still have to subdue it with clutching so it doesn't just blitz the track and so it actually accelerates harder on the trail, cruising at 25 mph and hit the throttle it almost rips your arms out of their sockets and you really need to be paying attention. However, boost level has a lot to do with this too, 7psi doesn't rip as hard as 12...
I think turbo lag on the trail turbo's has everything to do with the heavy clutching and helix angles you have to run to keep all that power harnessed... and rear mounts got a bad rap in the past for some real bad clutching, I know because I had it.
Clutch tuning options have come a long way in the past few years...
There might be a reason that the current fastest time on asphault is with a rear mount turbo???
For trail riding I have logged enough data to show that the intake temps stay pretty cool on my rear mount with the snow cooler in the tunnel (within 30 degF of ambient temp when cruising) and under 90 degF after short several second blasts under boost). I actually am displaying the intake air temp on my dash now. This way I found a pretty good correlation between charge air temps and slider lubrication, when there is low snow dust and the sliders are on fire (melting and smell) then there also isn't enough snow to cool the tunnel snow intercooler either and hence the intake temps are higher. When the sliders have enough snow dust to lube correctly, the temps also stay down... Total proof to me the rear mount tunnel snow intercooler / charge tube is a benefit.
Essarex
Pro
Front and rear exhaust driven boost are not your only options!
Go SC and avoid all those clutching and exhaust manifold problems.
There is nothing in the world like SC'd boost right off idle, especially with the stock (high) compression. Response is almost too abrupt; accidently bump the flipper mid corner and you will be introduced to mother nature the hard way, your friends will think you are a green peace activist due to your 'tree hugging' behavior
Go SC and avoid all those clutching and exhaust manifold problems.
There is nothing in the world like SC'd boost right off idle, especially with the stock (high) compression. Response is almost too abrupt; accidently bump the flipper mid corner and you will be introduced to mother nature the hard way, your friends will think you are a green peace activist due to your 'tree hugging' behavior
FLYBYU
VIP Member
Well if you decide to go front mount. I think i'll have a need for speed 4 tube header for sale.
kinger
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Shimmed motor with a SC is my favorite for trail riding. Not a single issue with the boost system in 3000 miles and 4 years of pounding it. There are down sides, one is MPG and fuel range. I am looking for gas at 80 miles. Ran out at 92 miles. With the aftermarket fuel pump I cant suck out the last gallon of fuel.
Other downside isn't specific to a SC but boost in general is HARD on things like chains, drivers, tracks, etc. Take your maint routine and cut it in half. I fyou changed a chain ever 3000 miles do it in 1500 miles, etc.
My goal when designing my stage 1 SC was 240hp on 91 gas and stock reliability. It does all those things with proper maint. Once I get more fuel on board I will be happy man. I even ran a tank of 87 through with a full can of Torco race fuel additive and it lived. The engine is solid, and doesn't burn a drop of oil.
Other downside isn't specific to a SC but boost in general is HARD on things like chains, drivers, tracks, etc. Take your maint routine and cut it in half. I fyou changed a chain ever 3000 miles do it in 1500 miles, etc.
My goal when designing my stage 1 SC was 240hp on 91 gas and stock reliability. It does all those things with proper maint. Once I get more fuel on board I will be happy man. I even ran a tank of 87 through with a full can of Torco race fuel additive and it lived. The engine is solid, and doesn't burn a drop of oil.
