had to cut out y pipes on sled

rx1 man 04

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2007 Yamaha apex gt and 2012 Yamaha apex xtx
had to cut out the y pipes on my sled because they are cracked, what is the best way to get the muffler off the connection at the rear, that piece is really in their tight, should I take it to a muffler shop and have them heat it up to remove it or what, what is the best way to install the new pipe and gaskets once I get the new y pipes., should I lube it up and hit it with a rubber mallet, dont think I can get it in together in one piece and slide it in, any help would be appreciated
 
To separate silencer from y pipes, unloosen the collars and tug the silencer off from the rear until it comes off.

To reinstall, first install donuts and y pipes, then silencer will go on. I had to wrap a ratchet strap around the y pipes to pull them closer together to get them to be lined up right for silencer to go on.
 
attaching silencer to y pipe

good idea, I will try the ratchet strap idea,
 
exhaust is totally out of sled

I had to drill out eight rivets holding in the muffler protector at the front, the bolts that held the y pipe were rusted beyond help and not enought room to get anything in their to remove it, then I cut the bracket in half and the y pipe came out, next I cut the y pipes close to the silencer to remove them in two pieces, problem is how to I get the remaining piece of y pipe out of the silencer, I think heating it with a torch might do the trick, new gaskets are in, y pipes are on order should be in soon from dealer, then big job of putting it all back together again
 
I too had one helluva time getting my Y pipes out. The Allen screws holding the pipes to the bracket notoriously strip out. I knew about that, tried heat and still no luck. I drilled out the head of one of the screws but just couldnt get the other one totally off. I drilled out all the rivets to take the bracket off the tunnel and free the last Y pipe (these rivets are often looose anyway and mine were). One of the rear pipe bolts in the band clamp broke off but it was free. I took the 4 muffler bolts out at the rear and slid the entire rear pipe and silencer out the back of the tunnel. Had to order new Silencer band and bolt. I was prepared to do real battle with the rear pipe but getting under the sled (skid removed) it practically jumped into place once I yanked them into alignment (no lube needed - just loose band clamps). I reattached the Y pipe bracket to the tunnel using 6 SS bolts with nylocks. The Allen screws for the Y pipes were also replaced with SS bolts. By taking the rear pipe and muffler out I did not need to take off the flex pipes. I had dug into this to check the donuts and found them practically new but the left side Y pipe has a flange cracked almost off.
 
I found that map gas heat worked for me. I had broken them on my RX-1 but tried doin things different on the apex.
 
when you re-install the muffler, grease the gaskets inside to help the pipes slide in. once they both start to slide in, place a piece of 2x4 across the back of muffler and hammer it in. use the flat edge, not the end, to distribute the impact over the muffler and not damage it.
 
question about installing the new y pipe

had to cut out the muffler protector braket in order to remove the y pipes, just wondering if I should use some locktight on the new allen key bolt and leave it a little loose so the y pipe can move a little in the bracket, I was also thinking of expanding the silencer hole slightly to allow some play when the motor moves , seems that these donuts are wearing out because the exhaust system does not flex enough, so if I dont fully tighted the new y pipe to the bracket it will be able to move and the locktight should keep it in place, and if I expand the holes that attach the silencer to the frame, the whole exhaust system will have a little bit of play, anyone ever tried this, I dont want to have to replace these donuts and y pipes every second year.
 
I know there is a member, using the same differential flex hypothesis, that just left that backet out so your idea is worth a try. Or maybe even a rubber grommet configuration such as the muffler has in the rear. Of course you have to take it apart pretty far to figure out if it is working. A lot of guys have posted that they used Anti-seize on those bolts. I did that on my hex heads I used.
 
I think I am going to give it a try

not sure why the bolt on the muffler protector bracket has to be fully tightened. I think if I leave it slightly loose but put some locktight on it the whole exhaust system will be able to move as the motor flexes, if I expand the holes on the silencer at the back this will also help by allowing the entire exhaust system to move, not sure how much it will move but a 1/4 inch or so might make the difference. I think this is the reason why these donuts are wearing out, the flex joint fittings attached to the motor dont give enough and more play is required, anyway going to give it a shot when the new parts arrive and I will let everyone know how it is holding up.
 
The y pipes should not be able to move.... thats what the flex joins on the head are for. Make sure u tighten those screws with some locktite and use stainless hardware (wont rust). I just used bols from the hardware store. all movement in the exhaust should be in the joints bolted to the head.
 
I agree with what you are saying

I agree the flex joints on the motor should be able to handle all the stress of the motor moving but if you try to move them by hand or with a screwdriver, it take a lot of pressure to get them to move, I dont think they are doing the job, just my opinion, I feel exhaust donuts should last a lot longer than one or two seasons of trail riding, must be a problem somewhere, I dont think any harm will come by allowing a little more flex in the overall exhaust system, only thing the exhaust caps might stick out a little more than usual when riding, if that is the case I can just put a little black gasket around the exhaust caps in between the exhaust caps and the exhaust covers.
 


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