Headlight--high low split modification

[rapeape]

Is this the answer that we've been looking for? I'm tired of lighting the treetops or the road 20 feet in front of me.

 

[Ported Hornet]

This weekend I finally got my head lights adjusted correctly. The brights work great, they shine far ahead on the trail that I can ride as fast as I want through trails and not feel like I am out running my lights. The dims shine low on the trail to which is good for oncoming traffic. I am very please with this set up.

 

[YamaBert]

What did you end up doing Ported Hornet?? Got off of work today and think I might tinker with this.

 

[Ported Hornet]

All I did was adjust the headlight screw. When I did it in my garage and in my driveway, I did not get them set correctly. What I did was bring my tools to my riding area, spent about five mins adjusting, went for a quick spin, adjusted and got it spot on. I would highly recommend this, dims shine down at the ground, not ideal but good for oncoming traffic. On the way plus sign the brights are prefect and now I can really rail through the trail and not out run my lights. I am very happy with this set up.

 

[Randy J Beyer]

I can SEE where good things come when everyone works as a team ! Great post ! Let there be light !

 

[GYTRules!!!]

 

[deweysgt]

headlight

I used a rubber o-ring as the spacer. the fit was perfect, easy to install and the jump difference between low & high beam is now perfect. good work, who ever came up with this idea.

 

[iasledder]

Thanks Oldsledder for sharing what you found. I played with this mod a little while installing the Silverstar ultras and it seems to me what is actually happening is the beam becomes broader as the bulb is moved back (like moving from a spot light to a flood light). This creates more overlap between the high and low beams thus making the separation between the two seem closer.

What is said in the quote is true. With the wider out of focus beam I doubt that you can see as far ahead with the high beam. Perhaps it's not enough to be concerned about. If it gives the desired effect for those trying it, go for it.

Thanks oldsledder, you are not afraid to jump in and give a thought a try-out. I respect that, do it a lot myself.

 

[**sj**]

rubber o ring is a good idea!

 

[Shane]

What size O-Ring have you guys found to be most effective? 1-1/4" ID? What thickness? Or, is simply adjusting the light using the adjustment features more effective?

Thanks so much.

Shane

 

[blackGt]

Also tried the 1.5" o.d. washer and it fell right thru opening, doing to try 1.75" and see what happens.

 

[blackGt]

Installed two 1 3/4" machine washers ,which measured .150 and what i found was that it shorted up the beam length. I found it very hard to ride aggresive with the beam that short. Will remove one of the washers and see what happens.

 

[Shane]

Sorry for the ignorance, but is there any concensus on just exactly what the best way to achieve what Yamaha should have done from the factory in terms of the high/low beam situation? I LOVE the Attak and I am getting it dialed in with the AD Boivin ZX2 Suspension, Ohlins coil over front shocks, Ulmer Stage 3 Clutch Kit and the Curve XS Skis. I would like to simply be able to adjust the stock housing to make it work the way it should. I am running Silver Star bulbs as well and love them. Thanks in advance.

 

[Honk]

I'm not sure if anyone is still looking at this thread, but I tried the spacers and they just fell through too. Then I thought about it a while. All you have to do is bend the three tabs down and it achieves the same set-back. Just bend them over, depends how much you prefer to set them back as to the spead of the light beam. Works for me, and the tabs have not bent back, they all have stayed put.

 

[nate007]

deweysgt,
Please add your location to your profile, per site rules. Thanks