Heat exchanger repair

jason thorne

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Location
conway nh
Country
USA
Snowmobile
yamaha warrior rx 2004
Hi Mr Sled,

A stud from my track scraped the front heat exchanger on my 2004 warrior rx. It looks like the best way to fix it is to remove the track and weld it. I am going to try using aluminum rods and a blow torch first and if that does not work... take it to a welding shop for a TIG weld.
I noticed your excellent picture demonstration of removing track and chain case referenced below...

https://totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/GearChange/gearchange prt2.htm

I'm a total novice... where can I buy this 36 mm tool?

I'm a little nervous about taking the chain case apart but with your picture demonstration I might be able to do it.

Thanks for your help,



Mr Sled
Use to be able to get them at Performance shops. I dont use them any more, I just use a big adjustable wrench and wedge a flat blade screw driver between one of the sprocket teeth and chain. You will see its not that tight.

Jason
Ok, Great, I will try that first.

Thanks for your help.

Jason
another question,

I want to cut the spikes off the track but leave the washer part in the track for support. What is the best way to cut the spikes off? Welder?

Thanks again

Mr Sled
You mean cut the stufd off but leave the washer and nut on ?
Jason
Yes, many spikes have already broken off just above the washer nut...so i figured i would just finish the job and the track would be more secure this way.
Mr Sled
It would be better to remove it completly. Less rotating mass to pull the track apart. But if you must, I would use a die grinder with a cut off wheel.
Jason

Ok, Great, Thanks,

Have you every used the aluminum welding rods to fix a heat exchanger? I see them used on youtube for other purposes and the weld looks pretty strong.... seems like it would get the job done just fine as long as you get a good bond.
Mr Sled
Yep, you should be able to gas weld that too, or TIG, scuff it well and just go for it.
Jason
Ok, yes I will just try the propane touch and aluminum rods first and see if I have any luck...

Jason
I have removed five of the six bolts holding the track inplace but the front left just spins and spins...Any ideas before I drill the head off? Thanks
Mr Sled
ram the other side back on with an impact. Then work the lock tight off the bolt on the stuck side.
Jason
Thank you, I put the other side bolt back in and it secured the inner pipe so the stuck side bolt finally came out. Thanks again..
Mr Sled
Your welcome
Jason
Update... I got the track off with some effort...The left drive bearing never came off...it was easier to remove the two rivets holding the plate in place...
I tried using the aluminum rods to weld it myself but they did not take to the aluminum...so I brought it to a TIG welder and he did a fine job for only $100...
Getting the suspension back in was difficult...I finally flipped the sled on it's side and used a crow bar...also loosened one bolt near the front of the big piston to give it more room to get the middle bolts in...
I took it for a small test ride and noticed that it will not go into reverse... when I closed the chain case was I supposed to put the reverse lever in a specific position?.. any idea's ?....

Thanks for your help
Mr Sled
You need to post this in the RX Section. There is so much you are missing here. Like you should have removed the transfer bolts at the bottom of the transfer rods to release the tension on the skid, you should have paid attention when you pull the chain-case cover as the forks needs to go over the reverse gear cup.. I dont have time to do the job online.. so I need some other members to help step in to walk you thru it.
Jason
Ok, I will post create this thread in the rx section to help future readers on the subject. I was able to take the cover off the chain case and put the forks over the reverse gear. It is working fine now... Thanks for your help. It's a big job for a novice but I eventually got it done with your help. Thanks again.
Mr Sled
Good to know.. I like to help but its great that others can read when it does work as noted.
 
I Would never trust JB weld on a heat exchanger. I Tig welded mine right in the sled.
 
Mine has been JB'd 10 + years, not a drip. Fixed it in the garage at Alger Falls Motel in Muni. Back on trail next day and every day since. To repair it this way is a ditchbangers quick repair and a common practice.
 


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