Fasttrax
Veteran
Re: vacuum
Check your coils !!! I had same problem, coils were toast.henseljg2 said:I changed the rubber boots out. I even created a vacuum leak and there was no change in operation. What else should I look at?
Teamblue4
Lifetime Member
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- 2012 Apex XTX
2013 Apex SE
2014 Apex SE
2014 Apex XTX
2018 Apex XTX 50TH Anniversary
Check your oil level,
powershot1
Extreme
Try swapping out the air temp sender.just did mine .now starts easy and idles cold.
Grunter
Extreme
Sounds silly but check this guys..
Just brought 2 sleds into the dealer for same thing - one with 6500 miles other with 11,000miles...
11,000 miles was worse - wouldn't idle at all..
Dealer found that the three bolts behind the secondary clutch wear out in time...
This causes your secondary to close more(less gap between the sheaves) and this in turn forces up the belt and this causes a "hang" and lowers rpm without creating the typical symptoms(squeaks etc.)..
Anyway, both sled run great now..
We both have "new" bolts in to restore factory separation and both motors run/idle great!
Not saying this is your problem - but for what the 3 bolts are worth - I'd check them or even replace them..
Maybe remove a washer before to test if letting the bolt in deeper solves your issue by spreading the sheaves.
If this solves your problem - then buy the bolts(this will re-store full adjustability) or if you can live with one lesser washer..then fine..
Just brought 2 sleds into the dealer for same thing - one with 6500 miles other with 11,000miles...
11,000 miles was worse - wouldn't idle at all..
Dealer found that the three bolts behind the secondary clutch wear out in time...
This causes your secondary to close more(less gap between the sheaves) and this in turn forces up the belt and this causes a "hang" and lowers rpm without creating the typical symptoms(squeaks etc.)..
Anyway, both sled run great now..
We both have "new" bolts in to restore factory separation and both motors run/idle great!
Not saying this is your problem - but for what the 3 bolts are worth - I'd check them or even replace them..
Maybe remove a washer before to test if letting the bolt in deeper solves your issue by spreading the sheaves.
If this solves your problem - then buy the bolts(this will re-store full adjustability) or if you can live with one lesser washer..then fine..
henseljg2
Extreme
hanging
Sorry to keep you hanging. I picked up a new ecu, harness and stator assembly to try to remedy the problem. I will be installing them this week to see if that is the issue. I believe it is electrical. Idle air control adjustments and trouble shooting seems to be doing nothing.
Sorry to keep you hanging. I picked up a new ecu, harness and stator assembly to try to remedy the problem. I will be installing them this week to see if that is the issue. I believe it is electrical. Idle air control adjustments and trouble shooting seems to be doing nothing.
02xtreme
Pro
powershot1 said:Try swapping out the air temp sender.just did mine .now starts easy and idles cold.
Did you have any error codes? I'm not getting any, may be worth a try though.
biffdotorg
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Teamblue4 said:Check your oil level,
What symptoms have you seen for a high or low oil level? Or what symptoms that pertain to idle?
Thanks!
henseljg2
Extreme
Well, its finally over. I changed out the wiring harness, ecu and stator and it idles. Im just dialing in my idle settings now but theyre actually changing the way it idles this time! Must have been a bad wiring harness or stator. The old wiring harness actually had a ground somewhere and killed the ECU. Case closed.
Blue Dave
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Glad to hear you got it fixed!
Grunter
Extreme
Scratch the secondary thing - my symptoms just came back...TPS or harness? Have new Yamaha Stator 200 miles ago..
02xtreme
Pro
I'm wondering if mine is the air temp sensor in the air box. Seems to start idling low in warm weather or in cold weather when sled is hot. When fan kicks in above right foot well it seems to be connected to my low idle. Am I on to something here?
Bigvander
Veteran
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- Feb 20, 2011
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- 26
Mine started doing this in -10 F temps - would barely run without extra throttle. It warms up and is fine the rest of the day. Let it set overnight and it does it again. It even did it yesterday when it was 40 degrees, barely even started. I found cracks in the muffler so that is my first task. I pulled the cr10ek plugs and they looked fine, although one had some oily substance on it.
If it is electrical then why does it go away after warmup?
If it is electrical then why does it go away after warmup?
Bigvander
Veteran
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2011
- Messages
- 26
Ceramic looks perfect as does the electrode, and dry. However, there was oil on the threads and even in the bottom of the plug well. ??
mark23ca
Veteran
i had a ground issue too it caused my lights to mess up and fuel pump...the ecu runs just about everthing on these sleds . the point is there is no general way they act when the ecu is bad ..its from bad lights to bad idleing to stupid little trouble code that points you to something that is nothing to do with the real problem ..my 2 centshenseljg2 said:Well, its finally over. I changed out the wiring harness, ecu and stator and it idles. Im just dialing in my idle settings now but theyre actually changing the way it idles this time! Must have been a bad wiring harness or stator. The old wiring harness actually had a ground somewhere and killed the ECU. Case closed.
mark23ca
Veteran
makes a guy wanna buy a set of carbs a good race fireing system and be done with it
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