rxbrent
Veteran
Can somebody please help me find the install measurements for installing a sc10III into a rx1. I did a search but could not find. thanks guys
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did you try searching.... http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
DaveRX1
Expert
The front arm bolt hole center is on the rear edge of the stock .060 thick out side tunnel re-enforcing plate by your foot well. The center of the hole is on the exact edge of the plate and 1 5/8" up from the foot rest (New mounting hole will be a few inches to the rear from proaction hole). You will need to add an additional .060" plate to the rear of the stock plate to support the front arm bolt and washer. Add some 3/16"x4x4" plate to the inside of the tunnel for reenforcing on the front arm. Use lots of large head steel rivits to secure the 4x4x3/16" aluminum
On the rear, remove stock steel drop mount brackets and make new ones from 3/16" aluminum.(Mount the drop mounts using 3/8" x 3/4" bolts in stock mounting holes and add steel 3/16" rivits spread around to secure aluminum plate to inside of tunnel) Make brackets wider than stock so that you can use the stock bracket bolt holes and drill new hole for rear arm mount 12-5/8" forward of the rear end of the running board heat exchanger, 1" down from bottom of exchanger fins.
Remember measure 3 times and centerpunch holes then drill once
I will try to add some more pics of install tomorrow
Good Luck!
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DaveRX1
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 3:45 am Post subject: Reply with quote Edit/Delete this post Delete this post
Note: my instructions are for an sc10 III out of an 2004 rev adrenaline. This skid dosnt have a front cross shaft (Like the mono or a fire crapper). I have noticed that the sc10 III that boomer purchased has a front cross shaft. I believe that the sc 10 III with the cross shaft is out of an MXZ, not a rev chassis. The mount points and all MAY be the same, you must verify the skid width and front to rear arm center to center meas to be same a rev version before using my dimensions. I also noticed the skid in the classified section has the limiters pulled way up, better let those puppys out a few holes before install.
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On the rear, remove stock steel drop mount brackets and make new ones from 3/16" aluminum.(Mount the drop mounts using 3/8" x 3/4" bolts in stock mounting holes and add steel 3/16" rivits spread around to secure aluminum plate to inside of tunnel) Make brackets wider than stock so that you can use the stock bracket bolt holes and drill new hole for rear arm mount 12-5/8" forward of the rear end of the running board heat exchanger, 1" down from bottom of exchanger fins.
Remember measure 3 times and centerpunch holes then drill once
I will try to add some more pics of install tomorrow
Good Luck!
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DaveRX1
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Joined: 16 Apr 2003
Posts: 192
PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 3:45 am Post subject: Reply with quote Edit/Delete this post Delete this post
Note: my instructions are for an sc10 III out of an 2004 rev adrenaline. This skid dosnt have a front cross shaft (Like the mono or a fire crapper). I have noticed that the sc10 III that boomer purchased has a front cross shaft. I believe that the sc 10 III with the cross shaft is out of an MXZ, not a rev chassis. The mount points and all MAY be the same, you must verify the skid width and front to rear arm center to center meas to be same a rev version before using my dimensions. I also noticed the skid in the classified section has the limiters pulled way up, better let those puppys out a few holes before install.
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DaveRX1
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race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
Dave was alot of help with me when I installed mine. I have alot of dimensions I took when I put the MXZ 800 skid in mine. Like he said in the post above there is a difference between the MXZ and the rev style. My MXZ style had a cross shaft all the way across the tunnel where the Rev style has arms that connect to the same holes the cross shaft goes to. I was lucky Dave let me take alot of pics and even let me drive his sled (he lived 8 miles from me) I can see if I still have pics and measurements because I went to a friend with a MXZ and used the same suspension geometry that was in his MXZ.
Basically the front you have to take the ears out your Pro sits in and redrill a new hole (I will find measurments) I added a 3/16ths plate on the inside and a 3/16 plate on the outside. The only mistake I really made was cosmetic I should have put the rivet holes lined up pretty from the outside. I put the rivets in correctly but when you see the heads it is not a nice line with the runningboard they are crooked because I lined it up exaclty with the inside edge. I cut the plate in front to go around the bolts etc so it is pretty big but I dont think you have to make it that big. I was worrried about strength. Yamaga only uses this little 2 inch ear thing to hold the pro in. I will get some measurements for the rear bolt down point as my buddy made them out of steel (he works in a machine shop and we did it right in his shop). He threaded the steel and we used locking nuts for triple safety but Daves where made out of aluminum and looked nice. He mentioned all of the aftermarkets where aluminum so it should be strong enough. I didnt have any pieces of aluminum so we ended up with steel. When I tried my suspension it hooked up 100% better than the pro bumps better but was to soft for my fat arse LOL I weigh 265 without gear. on a bumpy trail it bottomed easy. You can get the HD springs for about 70 bucks and revalve and rebuid both shocks for under 100 bucks for your weight. LIke I said I will get some pics and I know I have some of Daves along with all the measurements you could ask for.
Basically the front you have to take the ears out your Pro sits in and redrill a new hole (I will find measurments) I added a 3/16ths plate on the inside and a 3/16 plate on the outside. The only mistake I really made was cosmetic I should have put the rivet holes lined up pretty from the outside. I put the rivets in correctly but when you see the heads it is not a nice line with the runningboard they are crooked because I lined it up exaclty with the inside edge. I cut the plate in front to go around the bolts etc so it is pretty big but I dont think you have to make it that big. I was worrried about strength. Yamaga only uses this little 2 inch ear thing to hold the pro in. I will get some measurements for the rear bolt down point as my buddy made them out of steel (he works in a machine shop and we did it right in his shop). He threaded the steel and we used locking nuts for triple safety but Daves where made out of aluminum and looked nice. He mentioned all of the aftermarkets where aluminum so it should be strong enough. I didnt have any pieces of aluminum so we ended up with steel. When I tried my suspension it hooked up 100% better than the pro bumps better but was to soft for my fat arse LOL I weigh 265 without gear. on a bumpy trail it bottomed easy. You can get the HD springs for about 70 bucks and revalve and rebuid both shocks for under 100 bucks for your weight. LIke I said I will get some pics and I know I have some of Daves along with all the measurements you could ask for.
rxbrent
Veteran
reply
thanks to all of you for all your help. if you want you can e-mail pics to bjburgess@mybluelight.com
thanks to all of you for all your help. if you want you can e-mail pics to bjburgess@mybluelight.com
rxbrent
Veteran
skid help for cleo
ttt for cleo hope you see this
ttt for cleo hope you see this
cleo
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reply on sc10 111 install
thanks rxbrent i got the measurements and they worked fine
thanks rxbrent i got the measurements and they worked fine
Rockmeister
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Could someone post the measurements for the skid, and possibly a pic of the difference between the Rev and MXZ skid? Thanks!
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
rockmeister said:Could someone post the measurements for the skid, and possibly a pic of the difference between the Rev and MXZ skid? Thanks!
There are some that are wanting to install an SCIII in other sleds as well. If somebody has done one, and still has the notes available, if you could post the dimensions, you could help a lot of others out.
Necessary dims:
1. Driveshaft to front mounting point
2. Front mounting point to rear mounting point
3. Distance from top of tunnel down to each of the mounting points (to be used as a starting point, should be verified for each install)
aja636
Lifetime Member
using this picture will help with measurements, all you need is the donor sled that the suspension is coming out of to take them with.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
aja636 said:using this picture will help with measurements, all you need is the donor sled that the suspension is coming out of to take them with.
Sounds simple, but if you were to buy an SCIII (or whatever) skid off Ebay or at a swap meet you're kinda screwed without them -
As mentioned, #2 and #3 are the important ones. You can get by with just those, although the rest would be nice. Anyone?
Rockmeister
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I agree ahicks.
In fact I bought a SC10 3 skid off Ebay and need the measurements! lol
Have a few friends getting me measurements off of theirs and will post them when I have them sorted out.
Still wouldn't mind getting additional info/correlation from others.
Which Extroverts did you use by the way?
In fact I bought a SC10 3 skid off Ebay and need the measurements! lol
Have a few friends getting me measurements off of theirs and will post them when I have them sorted out.
Still wouldn't mind getting additional info/correlation from others.
Which Extroverts did you use by the way?
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
<<<Which Extroverts did you use by the way? >>>
Mine are the OEM SkiDoo. I installed them trying to control ratcheting problems with the Proactive, don't consider them necessary if using something not made by Yammi.
Mine are the OEM SkiDoo. I installed them trying to control ratcheting problems with the Proactive, don't consider them necessary if using something not made by Yammi.
Sidewinder
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Im wanting to install a SC10 into a 06 RTX Apex, is this the same ?
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