HELP??? Secondary Spring Question...

[Yamzilla]

1- were is your rpm now? it should be between 10500 and 10800 rpm.

2-Don't cut your clutch,you will loose efficiency.best efficiency of a cvt clutch is at 1:1 ratio,overdrive is not efficient.Yamaha clutch with helix machine for overdrive give 0.93 to 0.90:1 overdrive,that is good enough.

3-If you are new to clutching,take 20$ and buy THE AEEN CLUTCH TUNNING BOOK,read it 20 time,put it under your pillow.knowing how it work will help you gain performance in your clutch.

4-Different Clutching will make your sled faster from 0 to 100 mph,but no gain on top end.

Thing you can do to make your sled faster is:ad HP to the motor,adjust your suspension it can turn more free,put studs ( track spin is slow ).

You are correct about a loss of efficiency...at top-end when you go into a true overdrive. However, the stock Yamaha clutch will not even go 1:1 without modification. Milling the primary (I chose the speed ring) will actually help you to get closer to that 1:1. Be careful on milling the primary. I've been told there is not much meat to work with. My speed ring gave the equivalant of .060"...would recommend the Speed Ring over milling. About efficiency...you guys running your tall gear ratios thinking your running more efficient? If were talking long lake-runs I concede. On the otherhand if we're running through the trails...my sled's drivetrain efficiency blows the drawers off yours, guaranteed! Your clutch will be running hotter because it's spending more time in the lower 3rd of the primary with far more slipping...lost energy. Don't believe me? When you're trail-riding, stop along the way and grab your belt and then grab your pal's geared down sled. Also take note of how clean the sheaves stay. Bottom line: Setup your sled for how you ride. If you're a trail rider at heart but think you need to have the ultimate lake setup...don't come crying about inconsistant back-shifting, hot belts, prematurely worn out belts/sheaves. And if you chose to gear down, don't be afraid to setup for overdrive. It's icing on the cake. Lost efficiency? Ya, perhaps some. But if it helps to bring back some lost top-end...well, why not?

 

[ROCKRTX]

You are right,Remove some tip washer to gain rpm.

Anti ratchet driver are slow,you must be around 5 mph slower with these.Running the track too loose will not be faster,because the track rub on the studs protector.look under the sled at the front you will see rubber mark on the protector.there is a fine line to adjust the track for optimum performance.for faster acceleration on your sled put harder slide spring in your carb.you will have more snap trottle.check ULMER site for more detail.

 

[SLEDSTART]

You are right,Remove some tip washer to gain rpm.

Anti ratchet driver are slow,you must be around 5 mph slower with these.Running the track too loose will not be faster,because the track rub on the studs protector.look under the sled at the front you will see rubber mark on the protector.there is a fine line to adjust the track for optimum performance.for faster acceleration on your sled put harder slide spring in your carb.you will have more snap trottle.check ULMER site for more detail.

I did change the springs in that carbs. Weather they were softer or harder I don't know. I THINK they were green if my memory serves me right...??? They came with the kit from Matt at the speedshop. I think this was all Simmons CPR's set up if I remember right.

I wish the wrench at the dealer would have mentioned this as he talked me into them. He swore by it. If I knew the anti ratchets were slower I would not have done it, But it was ratcheting on me right from the dealer, and if I snugged the track it would burn thru hyfax. Now I am running the Polaris wheels and that really seemed to help. Every time I talk to someone I get something new.

I appreciate you input!

 

[ROCKRTX]

YAMZILLA wrote:

However, the stock Yamaha clutch will not even go 1:1 without modification.

That is not true.

my sled's drivetrain efficiency blows the drawers off yours, guaranteed!

a little bit of bench racing!

If you're a trail rider at heart but think you need to have the ultimate lake setup...don't come crying

Now we can see your true quality.

And if you chose to gear down, don't be afraid to setup for overdrive. It's icing on the cake. Lost efficiency? Ya, perhaps some. But if it helps to bring back some lost top-end...well, why not?

You will not bring back top end with overdrive,gear down help wen the sled can't pull the stock gearing.Tall gearing with clutch at efficiency will always be faster on top end that small gearing with overdrive.

 

[SLEDSTART]

So the end result...
I think originally my secondary was dirty. Cleaned that up and it was back to normal for a short time. Then the next night when the sled started running really poor at WOT...I suspected something in a main jet.
I was right. Somehow a small little shaving of clear plastic somehow got in one of them.

Sled is running great again even without the new clutch springs. I'll probably toss those in anyhow once they show up.

Thanks everyone for all your input.

So now where am I going to get that few extra MPH at top end guys?

I know more HP was mentioned...of course. but will gearing help me at all?
Like I said...I love the hole shot and midrange but I would like to see a few more on top ens without loosing too much of the midrange.

Suggestions?
If gearing won't help, where can I get a few more ponies reasonably?

 

[ROCKRTX]

Gearing down will help if you can't pull it.
What is your gear ratio? 24/38...23/38 ??
What is your top speed?

 

[SLEDSTART]

Gearing is stock. Top speed is hard to tell. I have not had it on a good hardpack in a while but last trip I saw 107 on the dreammeter. I have heard guys saying they saw 124 or so. I have never seen that kind of speed, But out of the hole and to 100 nobody I have ridden with can touch it including an F1000.

 

[ROCKRTX]

Remember that condition affect performance.best top end speed are record on ice,not on snow.Gearing down here will help.stock gearing is 24/38 and you can't pull it,go with a 23/38 or even 22/38 and your sled will be a different animal and you may have a gain on top.Lower gearing is easier to pull on snow.

 

[SLEDSTART]

Maybe this is a stupid question but why would the sled not be able to pull the stock gearing? So your saying to bring the top gear down to 23 and leave the bottom gear alone? Do I need to change the chain or will there be enough adjustment in the tensioner?

So gearing it down will be faster out of the hole AND on top end? Going even lower to a 22 will improve it even more?

I noticed the 2 teeth cut out of your speedo gear on your signature. What does that do? What teeth are you removing? Any 2?
Sorry for all the questions, but this is the first sled I have really done all the work on my own. My viper I had Aaen do all the work. I would like to learn this stuff since I really think I have the sled running pretty damn good, but I would like to wax the cats I ride with on top end as well as the hole shot.

Thanks again!

 

[ROCKRTX]

Maybe this is a stupid question but why would the sled not be able to pull the stock gearing? So your saying to bring the top gear down to 23 and leave the bottom gear alone? Do I need to change the chain or will there be enough adjustment in the tensioner?

So gearing it down will be faster out of the hole AND on top end? Going even lower to a 22 will improve it even more?

I noticed the 2 teeth cut out of your speedo gear on your signature. What does that do? What teeth are you removing? Any 2?
Sorry for all the questions, but this is the first sled I have really done all the work on my own. My viper I had Aaen do all the work. I would like to learn this stuff since I really think I have the sled running pretty damn good, but I would like to wax the cats I ride with on top end as well as the hole shot.

Thanks again!

Not enough HP,that is why you can't pull the stock gearing.if you put a turbo on your sled,you could run 130 mph with your stock gearing.
download this MPH calculator you may understand a couple thing.
The 1:1 ratio of a RX-1 is 120 mph and you are not even close!
107 on the dream meter is not even 100 mph on radar.The 23 top gear is a cheap investment and you can keep the stock chain.The 23/38 is still geared for 115 mph at 1:1,good for 124 mph with overdrive.The 22/38 is good for 110 mph at 1:1 and 118 mph with overdrive.the lower the gearing,the more consistan you will be on snow.

Cut 2 teeth on the speedo gear to make it accurate ( like a gps ) cut 1 on top and 1 at the bottom.

 

[SLEDSTART]

ok...so last questions...
I have heard overdrive is not that efficent. how is overdrive obtained?
Where is the best place to get the gears, and with it having reverse it this something I will be able to handle? I have had my standard chaincases apart, but have not dug into a reverse unit yet. I did but the service manual for the sled and am always willing to tear something apart. It's getting it back together that can be the pain in the azz...LOL

Thanks for the chart!

 

[ROCKRTX]

You already have overdrive in your clutch,about 0.93 to 0.90:1. people that cut there clutch or put a speed sheave want the belt to ride to the top of there clutch.this give you a 75:1 ratio but this is a big mistake.Best efficiency is at 1:1 ratio.Efficiency mean more power to the track.

You can buy the gear from your dealer it is about 35$ for the 23 top gear.

Here is a link for the gear change.
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... 20prt1.htm

 

[SLEDSTART]

Thanks a lot!!!

That really don't look like too bad of a project!

I may just have to go pick up gear and try it out. You suggest starting with the 23 first?

 

[ROCKRTX]

Yes, start with the 23,if you want to go stronger after you can change the bottom gear to a 40 teeth and keep the same chain.If you go to a 22/38 you will have to change your chain for 68 link.

23/40 and 22/38 is almost equal in ratio.

 

[SLEDSTART]

OK...will do.
Thanks for all your time. I really appreciate it a lot!
I notice your running EFI now. Did you have a RX before the Apex?
Reason I ask is I may be getting into a 06 RTX in trade for a nice SRX that I have and some cash. Is it harder and more costly to get the EFI sled running like the RX? I know carbs and can tear them down and do what I need to do. I know EFI is going to be a whole new ball game. This RTX is bone stock other than studs.
I have been poking around a bit and I saw things like fuel accelerators and they looked pricey. I think the mods on my RX were under 1000 bucks and it runs pretty dame strong! My one wrench buddy is telling me I will not get the EFI to run as strong as my carbed sled without spending some good coin.
Is that true?