HELP...Throttle Cable / TORS Question

[TRiGGeR605]

Hey guys, I just changed out my stock throttle cable for a MTX throttle cable. I put everything back together and went for a test run but my TORS keeps activating (code 84). I can tell it should because the sled seems to want to go but the TORS stops it. My cable feels good and there's no hang ups. I also have just a little play for the throttle flipper. I'm not sure what is wrong, when I had everything apart the throttle would close all the way. Any ideas?

Also, is the only way to do this job is to take off the radiator and air box?

 

[TRiGGeR605]

The sled also seems to idle between 1500 - 1600 RPM's. Not sure what it should idle at.

 

[TRiGGeR605]

I just finished going into diagnostic mode and played around with my throttle position. Where I have it set up is right on. I'm getting a measurement of 16 and closed throttle and 95 at WOT. Both of those measurements are in spec. I also played with the mode where it tells you if the throttle is on or off, that seems to run perfectly. I'm still having the problem of when I try to move the sled it immediately throws the 84 code.

 

[jamieren]

1500 rpm at idle is normal for my machine, I can tell you that much.

 

[Dr Ecto]

Mine was doing that when I turned the bars one way or the other. Could it be that?

 

[SnoBird888]

what did you change to cause this?

 

[GYTR GEARHEAD]

i would recheck the cable free play again if it throw code 84 it mean throttle side are up whitout throttle lever input ......cable too tight i will cause it to throw code 84 when bar are turn on either side or if throttle side are going up before tors switch is activated .......double check cable routing and all connector the free play should be between 3.0mm-4.0mm (0.12-0.16 in)

 

[Dr Ecto]

I had added an oft steering relocater. To fix it I adjusted the free play on the throttle lever just barely. Turn the bars both ways and make sure your lever has about 1/8" free play before it pulls on the cable.

 

[TRiGGeR605]

I figured it out guys. I must have undone the spring that controls how fast the throttle snaps back after letting of the gas. I knew something was up when the tension of the throttle was way to easy to pull.

 

[Nytro-glycerin]

I figured it out guys. I must have undone the spring that controls how fast the throttle snaps back after letting of the gas. I knew something was up when the tension of the throttle was way to easy to pull.

Im about to do this swap, Any advice? Do i need to know any measurements, etc? Never done this before.....

 

[TRiGGeR605]

You don't need any measurements. Its pretty easy, just make sure you take a good look at how the stock one is routed and go from there. It can be tricky to unhook and then attach the new cable on the throttle body side without taking out the air box and radiator, that's why I accidentally disconnected one of the springs that holds the tension on the throttle body. Maybe have someone there to help hold things where you need them and you shouldn't need to take the air box and rad off.

 

[Nytro-glycerin]

A

You don't need any measurements. Its pretty easy, just make sure you take a good look at how the stock one is routed and go from there. It can be tricky to unhook and then attach the new cable on the throttle body side without taking out the air box and radiator, that's why I accidentally disconnected one of the springs that holds the tension on the throttle body. Maybe have someone there to help hold things where you need them and you shouldn't need to take the air box and rad off.

Awesome, thanks! I took a brief look at it tonight, I can't see where the cable connects once it goes behind the 90 degree bracket holding it in place, when looking in from above the secondary. I may remove the gas tank if I need to. Would rather remove the tank then the rad since I just did it for the donuts and its pretty quick. It won't be for another week or so, but I may be posting back if I get stuck! Thanks again. Merry Christmas!