rezwarrior
Newbie
Hello, I'm new to the site and new to the Yamaha four strokes. I have a 04' Warrior Mostly stock, but has a PP 13mm swaybar. I love the sled, but need some help getting the suspension setup, right now it steers hard, and doesn't handle like I expected. I'm about 6' 3" and 235 so with gear about 255. Any suggestions on starting points for adjustments? Thank you in advance, have already learned a ton about these just reading on here.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Maybe let out the Straps a bit to see if you can get the front of the rear suspension to take up some of the weight off the skis. You may have to tighten the rear suspension's front spring just a tad to take advantage of the longer straps. But do not over do the the spring tightening or you will start teeter-tottering. Also, if the ski pressure does NOT seem to lesson a bit on acceleration, maybe shorten the Control Rods such that the sled just starts to wheelie and then lengthen them back out just a tad.
I found that 6" or greater carbides are just to hard to steer, when you get the ski pressure adjusted to hold a good turn. So, ... I went with dual carbides. Back to one finger steering/turning for me.
I found that 6" or greater carbides are just to hard to steer, when you get the ski pressure adjusted to hold a good turn. So, ... I went with dual carbides. Back to one finger steering/turning for me.
Yooper_Bob
Expert
You are heavy enough that a "fat boy" spring would probably help impove the rear suspension.
Contact your dealer, and heavier springs are available.
Contact your dealer, and heavier springs are available.
SMOKNZ
Extreme
Not to hyjack the thread, but I experience the heavy steering as well with my 05 Warrior. I actually sucked up the limiters because I felt I had too little ski pressure. The sled turns real poorly especially at lower speed and feels like it pushes thru corners, already has dual carbides. Is this the nature of the longer track? by buddies 03 RX1 and SX700 turn really easy but both have single carbides and obviously 121" tracks.
Bill
Bill
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
The Warrior will tend to push more than the Shortie. Especially if you have studs. The track is longer and there is more track contact with the ground.
Dual runner carbides are a trade off. They help minimize darting and the arch in the runner's mounting plates re-arches the ski back to where the ski was when it was new. That is what maintains the easy steering. The ease of steering recovered by the arch in the doolies may be somewhat reduced if 6" carbides are used instead of 4". The trade off for using dual runners is you get less of the sharp steering that you get from a single runner. So we doolie users tend to compensate with more ski pressure. Actually, some sleds become overly twitchy with single runners. Especially, when they have too much ski pressure and/or too much carbide, etc.
Single runner carbides are a trade off. They can give you sharper steering in corners, if the sled is set up properly. The trade off is they are prone to darting and the tend to turn harder at slower speeds. They do not re-arc the ski back to where it was when the ski was new. In fact, they tend to pull the ski down, especially after the runner has bent down from a few bumps, etc.
So, ... the rider has to pick the runner style for their style of riding. Faster or "aggressive" riders may want single runners. Then again, others may be sick of the darting, twitchines and hard steering that tend to go with them. So they live with doolies and jack up the ski pressure, if necessary.
Riders should decide on their desired riding style and then set up the sled for the best compromise. I have had both types of runners in many different lengths of carbides. Personally, I like the doolies. They steer with one finger. And, ... if I was going fast enough to not be able make a corner with them, I would have to be driving too stupidly anyway.
Dual runner carbides are a trade off. They help minimize darting and the arch in the runner's mounting plates re-arches the ski back to where the ski was when it was new. That is what maintains the easy steering. The ease of steering recovered by the arch in the doolies may be somewhat reduced if 6" carbides are used instead of 4". The trade off for using dual runners is you get less of the sharp steering that you get from a single runner. So we doolie users tend to compensate with more ski pressure. Actually, some sleds become overly twitchy with single runners. Especially, when they have too much ski pressure and/or too much carbide, etc.
Single runner carbides are a trade off. They can give you sharper steering in corners, if the sled is set up properly. The trade off is they are prone to darting and the tend to turn harder at slower speeds. They do not re-arc the ski back to where it was when the ski was new. In fact, they tend to pull the ski down, especially after the runner has bent down from a few bumps, etc.
So, ... the rider has to pick the runner style for their style of riding. Faster or "aggressive" riders may want single runners. Then again, others may be sick of the darting, twitchines and hard steering that tend to go with them. So they live with doolies and jack up the ski pressure, if necessary.
Riders should decide on their desired riding style and then set up the sled for the best compromise. I have had both types of runners in many different lengths of carbides. Personally, I like the doolies. They steer with one finger. And, ... if I was going fast enough to not be able make a corner with them, I would have to be driving too stupidly anyway.
Warrior Snowman
Extreme
I have the same setup you describe here. The 13mm sway bar made a big difference in how the sled ran through the corner. I am very pleased with that addition. I have no pressure on the front skis and I run 6" dual runners on both skis. I really just don't notice the push as much as I had in the past. Like most sleds, much of the cornering is done with the throttle. Less throttle in the deep part of the corner gives greater ski pressure on the outside ski. When you hit it, you will lose ski pressure no matter what the settings are. The longer track just loves to go straight. I find that I can get into the corners faster than my friends, but they may go through it faster than I can. My next step may be new skis. I hear great things about aftermarket skis for cornering...
