High idle at times?

[Irv]

Irv, here are a few pictures of my Carb Sync Tool and it being used to sync the carbs on a Vector.
Note: never run the engine with only one side of the sync tool connected or you'll suck the oil out of the tube.

Carb sync tool connected to carb #2

Carb #2 out of sync

Carb #1 slightly out of sync

Adjusting sync on carb #1

Sync'd carb

Thanks Grizztracks

I can't see the pics here at work but will definitely check them out when I get home.

Not sure what your set-up looks like or what it cost but in your opinion, would I be further ahead just taking my sled to my dealer to have this done?
I assume my sled will be the only one I ever use this on as my riding buddies all have Apex's.
(just comparing costs of material etc to what a dealer will charge?)

Thanks again, I appreciate you doing this for me!

 

[grizztracks]

I think I had less than $10 in material. I had the board and transmission fluid in the garage. I've also seen other home made sync tools with the tubing mounted on a yard stick.

 

[ViperTurboPete]

Grizz,

I will try this out on my RXM. The carbs have never been synched.

I am just trying to understand the synch procedure. On your photo you show adjusting the synch on carb number one when hoses are attached to carbs two and three. I just thought if adjustment is req'd on carb number one that the grey hose from carb one is to be attached to the synch tool and tool hose attached to carb one. What am I missing here?

Anyway, I assume the same procedure is followed with 4 carbs leaving the one hose attached to carb 4 (stator side) on RX motor.

 

[grizztracks]

Good catch. I was trying to get some picture to show how it's done and put the screwdriver on the wrong adjustment screw during the process. I removed the picture to prevent confusion and replaced it with a labeled picture.

 

[ViperTurboPete]

Wow, thanks Grizz!

Agreed, this procedure should be made into a sticky and posted on RX RS forums!

Next time I am in town, I will buy some gas line etc. and synch my carbs. It has been on my mind for years, but have been too cheap to buy the tool.

 

[Irv]

Good catch. I was trying to get some picture to show how it's done and put the screwdriver on the wrong adjustment screw during the process. I removed the picture to prevent confusion and replaced it with a labeled picture.

Thanks again Grizztracks, I had a look at the pics of your set-up and I think I will go that route as well.

I did manage a ride Sunday, about 100miles and noticed countless times that my idle will not come down after being stopped for a while

If I shut the sled off and re-start it, it always idles around 1400-1500 hundred, it is only if I rev it up or take it for a good ride that it hangs up?
Has me baffled?

 

[grizztracks]

Turn the idle down to 1400 or slightly below. I found that 1400-1500 rpm is to high and tends to cause the problem you're describing.

 

[fastdave]

My vector does exactly the same thing if I have the idle too high. Set it to 1300-1350 and it won't do that. Make sure you are fully warmer up when setting the idle. I mean drive about 5 miles after the cold light goes out, then set the idle. After the cold light goes out on mine, the idle drops to 1100 and slowly goes up until it's really warmed up (like 10 minutes or so).

 

[ViperTurboPete]

Why can't water instead of oil be used?

 

[grizztracks]

Transmission fluid is easy to see, won't evaporate and if by chance any gets sucked in the engine it's safer.

 

[Irv]

Turn the idle down to 1400 or slightly below. I found that 1400-1500 rpm is to high and tends to cause the problem you're describing.

Thanks Grizztracks and Fastdave, I will try turning my idle down and see how that goes?

Appreciate the help

 

[Redbeard]

Turn the idle down to 1400 or slightly below. I found that 1400-1500 rpm is to high and tends to cause the problem you're describing.

Thanks Grizztracks and Fastdave, I will try turning my idle down and see how that goes?

Appreciate the help

If turning your idle screw down does not help, check the free-play adjustment on the throttle cable.

 

[Redbeard]

Turn the idle down to 1400 or slightly below. I found that 1400-1500 rpm is to high and tends to cause the problem you're describing.

Thanks Grizztracks and Fastdave, I will try turning my idle down and see how that goes?

Appreciate the help

If turning your idle screw down does not help, check the free-play adjustment on the throttle cable.

 

[grizztracks]

If the delay in idle return was free play related the TORS would be triggered and code 84 displayed. I doubt it's the problem. I've ran into this many times and it's almost always a result of the idle being set to high. With that being said, it's still a good idea to periodically check throttle cable free play.

 

[Redbeard]

If the idle speed screw does not bring idle speed down, the cable might be too tight. TORS might throw a code if the cable was too loose, but that does not sound its the case. If the idle speed screw and cable adjustment aren't the problem, it may be time to check the carbs themselves. Also, make sure you don't have a broken clamp that secures the carbs to the head.