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Hitting rev limiter, need to drop the rpms?

S

SwedishManiac

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Well since i mounted the Speedtech Slipon and the CR10EK's i am hitting the limiter now and then.
Times it happens is from low speed to full throttle or when ditch banging.
If i drive smothly the rpms is no prob, but when i go wide open on a good trail from 20 - 30 i get a taste of it, same if i go out in powder and go wide open from slow speeds.

I dont find it that bothering tbh, rather i like it pretty much but it might be bad for the sled? its not like i am on the limiter all the time... ;)!

Shall i try to get the rpms down like 50 - 100 - 150? and in what way is the easiest one?

It feels like the clutch don't have time to gear up when i go full, and yeah it is crazy fast responding! sounds amazing and i even get some exhaust bangs now and then when letting go of the throttle now and then.




:sled1:
Have tons of video on my comp, shall see if i can get motivated and start editing it to my YT channel.
 

Just had the same thing happen to the wife's MTX. I think it is broke in more now or something. Once she hit 1000 miles on the odometer it started happening. Her 8FS-00 weights were empty and I had to put 17.2's in the tip and center and 17.2's with the hole in the rear nearest the pin for low elevation riding.. I think you need more tip weight for sure but not sure about the center hole. Heel is probably fine.
What rivets do you have in there right now. Also what is the twist rate on your secondary spring.
 
You can try adding 10 degrees more twist to what ever it is at now. The way yamaha secondary works is that there is 4 numbers on the helix and 3 numbers on the secondary. 3 & 3 x 10 give you 90 * twist. 6 & 1 x 10 give you 60 * twist. Secondary sheave has 1 , 2 , and 3 marked on them but are sometimes hard to read. What ever numbers you use times it by 10 to give you the twist rate. Not the best way to do it , better to tune the primary then work on the secondary.

If you give your elevation you ride at would help more with getting the weights set right for you. You can also call any yamaha dealer and they can give you a ball park stock setup for your elevation.
 
nitris223 said:
You can try adding 10 degrees more twist to what ever it is at now. The way yamaha secondary works is that there is 4 numbers on the helix and 3 numbers on the secondary. 3 & 3 x 10 give you 90 * twist. 6 & 1 x 10 give you 60 * twist. Secondary sheave has 1 , 2 , and 3 marked on them but are sometimes hard to read. What ever numbers you use times it by 10 to give you the twist rate. Not the best way to do it , better to tune the primary then work on the secondary.

If you give your elevation you ride at would help more with getting the weights set right for you. You can also call any yamaha dealer and they can give you a ball park stock setup for your elevation.
Click to expand...

I always thought it was calculated differently. The sheaves had numbers 1,2,3 and the helix had numbers 1,3,6,9. So if you put it in 3-3 you get 60*, 3-6 gets you 90*,.6-2 gets you 80 and so on. I always figured it was an addition of the two numbers. The rtx would come stock in the 6-2 position(80*) and the xtx I believe was in the 6-1(70*).
 
Nytroman20 is correct thats how you adjust the secondary...but if you like the back shift i would just add weight to the primary and be done with it.
 
Must have been to many Twisted Ice Tea's. Doesn't make sense what I typed last night. It is add the 2 numbers and put a 0 on the end like nytroman said. Sorry if I confused anyone. For sea level you may still need some rivets in the weights. Have you owned the sled since new or did it come from somewhere else that was at a higher elevation.

Best bet is to call a Yamaha dealer and find out what they do for low elevation clutching.

My 162 is at 3 and 3 on the secondary for 1600 ft elevation.
 
Id be willing to bet you are hearing the pop" this nytro motor makes you prob couldnt notice it with stock exhaust and now with that slip-on your hearing it clear as day
 
basic700 said:
Id be willing to bet you are hearing the pop" this nytro motor makes you prob couldnt notice it with stock exhaust and now with that slip-on your hearing it clear as day
Click to expand...
yeah that makes sense, was on a big snowmobile meetup today and i tested it out, most likely not that bad as a tought it was! mostly small bumps and low grip when i hear it bang.(sounds kinda awesome if you ask me, kinda liking it)^^

btw did a full throttle run on a lake and with good grip i stay around 8970 8990 rpm, think thats a good number, what you think?

and yeah i think i test some more and see how it works out, last 20cm snow we got was powder only so low grip and sucky stearing everywere atm.

Edit added my slipon bellow, its a stainless Speedtech,
ynytro.jpg
 
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