stgdz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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I've seen the 1/8" value states for ever but how people measure that is beyond me, but it usually states the following
Pick two points and then subtract the values. You should get 1/8".
Me being me and realize this is just a triangle and we are just measuring the height. Well that angle at the base can be wildly different on how far those two are apart.
So how far apart should we be measuring? Is the two farthest points on the carbides? Carbide ends to ski tips? Ski tip to ski end?
Pick two points and then subtract the values. You should get 1/8".
Me being me and realize this is just a triangle and we are just measuring the height. Well that angle at the base can be wildly different on how far those two are apart.
So how far apart should we be measuring? Is the two farthest points on the carbides? Carbide ends to ski tips? Ski tip to ski end?
earthling
Lifetime Member
I have a tape line on the floor, sled parallel to the line as verified by measuring from edge of track to the line in multiple places. I put the tape line down with a framing laser (4 way cross). Measure the distance at the front and rear of the parallel parts of the ski to the line. If you get the rear most measurement of the ski to be the same, the front measurements are the toe in/out for each ski.
14" with spindle bolt at 7" At least thats what the Doo Pilots have the tape measure indents in ski at. Its worked for me so I do the same for whatever skis I have on at time.
GR8BBQ
TY 4 Stroke Master
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A video is worth 1000 posts....
Motorhead
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1/4” tow out. Measure very back of skis center to center, say 42”, now front of skis measure and should be 42 1/4”. So front ski measurement should be 1/4” more then back end of ski measurement, center to center.
Now I’m a stickler for perfect handle bar alignment, so First things first for me. I sit on the sled looking straight ahead and feel where my handlebars are where I want them. Then get off sled without moving them, and walk out back of the sled, now standing back 5-6’, you can see which ski would have to move for good alignment. Now you know which ski to move for your 1/4” tow out and maintaning straight ahead handlebars! Or use straight edge method off track but I prefer my quicker method!
Now I’m a stickler for perfect handle bar alignment, so First things first for me. I sit on the sled looking straight ahead and feel where my handlebars are where I want them. Then get off sled without moving them, and walk out back of the sled, now standing back 5-6’, you can see which ski would have to move for good alignment. Now you know which ski to move for your 1/4” tow out and maintaning straight ahead handlebars! Or use straight edge method off track but I prefer my quicker method!
FrozenTows4
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- FrozenTows1
Here's how I do it....
Aligning with the carbide/ski runner is the best reference point. That's what steers the sled.
After skis are parallel to the track, via the long straight edge, tow out 1/16-1/8 measured ski to ski.
Using a tape measure leaves quite a bit of room for error.
This method you can fine tune, watching the changes immediately, as the tie rod is rotated.
Always double check once the jam nuts are secured.
Excellent ski alignment promotes great tracking, little to no darting, and easy steering.
Aligning with the carbide/ski runner is the best reference point. That's what steers the sled.
After skis are parallel to the track, via the long straight edge, tow out 1/16-1/8 measured ski to ski.
Using a tape measure leaves quite a bit of room for error.
This method you can fine tune, watching the changes immediately, as the tie rod is rotated.
Always double check once the jam nuts are secured.
Excellent ski alignment promotes great tracking, little to no darting, and easy steering.
DennyTuna
RIP-Logan-Dylan-Never forgotten!
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Frozentows that's exactly how we do it as well. One thing I do to get exact measurements is use a framing square, flat side down then butted up to straight bar and up against yard stick. Well done with the photos. We are also a 1/16 or so toe out on each ski.
baggs66
Expert
I also put a bungy on ski tips to take out any play from worn parts.
MyOutdoors
Expert
Here's how I do it....
Aligning with the carbide/ski runner is the best reference point. That's what steers the sled.
After skis are parallel to the track, via the long straight edge, tow out 1/16-1/8 measured ski to ski.
Using a tape measure leaves quite a bit of room for error.
This method you can fine tune, watching the changes immediately, as the tie rod is rotated.
Always double check once the jam nuts are secured.
Excellent ski alignment promotes great tracking, little to no darting, and easy steering.
I measure from extended carbide studs as well... especially now that I'm running Slydog Attacks
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carbide studs are where my measurements are taken from when i do one with a bungee on ski loops to remove slack.
SideHogger
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Something I always do is remove runners so skis are flat. My 2 cents.
Just ride a 4st Phazer for a bit and you all will figure out how to go with the flow Toe wise. Worst Bumpsteer of any sled ever made I bet! Wasnt bad Handling wise unless you snap a a-arm and ride it with toe in for 50mi. Lesson always error to the toe out dim.
Simplespeed
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Your all right but the video made by factory engineer from Arttic cat was best in my humble opinion…He used long straight bars butted to edge of track, straps to hold handle bar straight, then lifted and set sled on ground before taking measurements and showed how to make adjustments….
Turboflash
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I always measure from each end of carbides with a weak bungee across ski tips to make sure any play doesn't cause toe-in. Toe-in bad. And, I like to have full sled weight on the the sled while doing it. If you watch your skis when you lift front end, you'll see as the control arms lift, the skis get closer together so measuring with skis dangling in the air IMO is not necessarily very accurate. I never use the plastic skis to measure as that's not as accurate as using the carbide. Plastics have variations, sometimes the mounting holes for carbides/runners are not exactly perfect front to back. I set at zero to slight toe out (1/16"). I have no play in my steering.
stgdz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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I've heard that you should put them on chocks to allow the suspension to squat. But being the attention to detail person I am, I want to make certain the wheels are aligned left to right so it can move with little resistance when you push on the front end.Something I always do is remove runners so skis are flat. My 2 cents.
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