GT03235
Expert
How do i change the sliders on my FX? Did a search but could not turn anything up. Just noticed this morning and my sliders are toast 
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I always suggest pulling the skid out so you can check everything over at the same time. I have only had to change mine once a year, so I usually do it when she is coming out of storage.
Several people have done the 'reverse' method. My understanding is that you take out the mounting screw, tap one slider out of the track window (1-2 inches), fire up the sled, put it in reverse and slowly engage the motor. This will peel the slider off of the rail.
Good luck and let us know what you come up with.
Several people have done the 'reverse' method. My understanding is that you take out the mounting screw, tap one slider out of the track window (1-2 inches), fire up the sled, put it in reverse and slowly engage the motor. This will peel the slider off of the rail.
Good luck and let us know what you come up with.
unpride
Expert
pull the skid and check for LOOSE BOLTS you will find a few if they already havent come out. While your at it get the grease fittings
stewartb
Expert
GT03235 said:How do i change the sliders on my FX? Did a search but could not turn anything up. Just noticed this morning and my sliders are toast
Loosen the track. To do so loosen the rear axle bolt and then the two tension adjusters that you can see through the track windows at the very rear. Align a track window on the retention bolt near the front of the rails and remove the bolts. Using an appropriate tool, like a screwdriver
tap the hyfax back with a hammer. Align the track windows to let the hyfax pass through at the rear. Once it's out enough to grab, use vice grips and yank them back and off. Use the old hyfax as a template to cut the new ones to length, and repeat the exercise in reverse order. Some Windex or Pledge serves as a temporary lubricant that will evaporate.I hear guys say the hyfax is difficult to remove. I've never had any problem that the application of brute force couldn't overcome, and it's never taken much force.
SB
SIKEWARD
Expert
As far as removing the whole skid to do maintence how big of a project is that to remove it. Never done that before.
billey100
Pro
Are there any tips or tricks to removing the skid, is it pretty straight forward?
stopdropanroll
TY 4 Stroke Master
billey100 said:
If you un bolt your torsion springs (at the rails) it makes removal ALOT more easy, it will collapse the skid, its kinda a pain to bolt them back up upon reinstall but worth it IMO, I guess I have not done it to my XTX yet but on my F7 I cut the top of the torsion spring holders so I could just lift them out and it was a piece of cake, easlly done solo. JM2CNTS
northerndoc
Expert
Removing and replacing the skid on the Nytros is a pretty easy affair, at least on my XTX.
1. Loosen rear axle (I believe it is 17mm on each side)
2. Get the back of the sled up in the air (I use a come-along attached to the ceiling of my garage)
3. Loosen track tension adjusters (Have to access them through windows at the back of the track. Back them almost all the way off, but don't take the nut off the adjuster stud)
4. Remove 4 suspension mounting bolts (14mm). Two in back are under the tunnel through drop brackets. Two in front are a little tricky, as you have to loosen them equally since the bolt into the shaft that the suspension pivots on. If you take one all the way out and then try to do the other, it will just spin the shaft it threads into.
5. Once all bolts are out, raise the sled up a little higher and horse it out of there.
-As others have said, now's a good time to check the torque on all bolts in the suspension, as they have a tendancy to loosen over time. Grease all fittings except the ones that grease the pivot shaft in front that you took the bolts out of, grease that one with the skid reinstalled (you'll understand when you look at it. )
6. Remove Bolts/Screws at the front of the hyfax. I use my air hammer with a blunt chisel on it to drive the old hyfax backwards.
7. Slide new ones on, install hyfax retaining bolts.
8. Horse suspension back inside track, align front bolt holes, start bolts- thread in until slightly snug.
9. I compress the rear suspension with a ratchet strap a little and then lower the tunnel down onto the suspension until the rear holes line up. Install bolts. Remove ratchet strap.
10. Front get torqued to 52 ft/lbs, Rear to 50 I think (might be a little off). I use blue loctite every time I reinstall them. Have seen the carnage on a buddies sled when a couple of his mounting bolts backed out while riding.
11. Readjust track tension to personal preferences, retighten axle (don't recall torque spec).
Hope this helps- feel free to add if anyone has any other tips.
1. Loosen rear axle (I believe it is 17mm on each side)
2. Get the back of the sled up in the air (I use a come-along attached to the ceiling of my garage)
3. Loosen track tension adjusters (Have to access them through windows at the back of the track. Back them almost all the way off, but don't take the nut off the adjuster stud)
4. Remove 4 suspension mounting bolts (14mm). Two in back are under the tunnel through drop brackets. Two in front are a little tricky, as you have to loosen them equally since the bolt into the shaft that the suspension pivots on. If you take one all the way out and then try to do the other, it will just spin the shaft it threads into.
5. Once all bolts are out, raise the sled up a little higher and horse it out of there.
-As others have said, now's a good time to check the torque on all bolts in the suspension, as they have a tendancy to loosen over time. Grease all fittings except the ones that grease the pivot shaft in front that you took the bolts out of, grease that one with the skid reinstalled (you'll understand when you look at it. )
6. Remove Bolts/Screws at the front of the hyfax. I use my air hammer with a blunt chisel on it to drive the old hyfax backwards.
7. Slide new ones on, install hyfax retaining bolts.
8. Horse suspension back inside track, align front bolt holes, start bolts- thread in until slightly snug.
9. I compress the rear suspension with a ratchet strap a little and then lower the tunnel down onto the suspension until the rear holes line up. Install bolts. Remove ratchet strap.
10. Front get torqued to 52 ft/lbs, Rear to 50 I think (might be a little off). I use blue loctite every time I reinstall them. Have seen the carnage on a buddies sled when a couple of his mounting bolts backed out while riding.
11. Readjust track tension to personal preferences, retighten axle (don't recall torque spec).
Hope this helps- feel free to add if anyone has any other tips.
unpride
Expert
No matter what the first time may be difficult but after that its very easy. I just made a lift using my winch on my 4 wheeler and pulley. It works awesome. I can have a skid in and out within an hour.
vogelm1
Pro
If one were to use a traditional sled lift, do the lifting arms get in the way? Just curious as quite a few mention suspending the rear end from a garage rafter, etc.
stewartb
Expert
I find it much easier to get the skid back into the track with the rear suspended, then tip the sled on it's side to align and install bolts.
My lift is a pain because it lifts the Nytro front higher than the rear. With skid installation you generally want the rear higher.
The front arm bolts are much easier to remove and install with an impact driver, as is true with all through shafts.
My lift is a pain because it lifts the Nytro front higher than the rear. With skid installation you generally want the rear higher.
The front arm bolts are much easier to remove and install with an impact driver, as is true with all through shafts.
GT03235
Expert
So it was pretty straight forward the next time will be much easier 
The hyfax was actually missing for around 6 inchs on the one side about half way along the skid. The fronts were fine which i find strange.
The hyfax was actually missing for around 6 inchs on the one side about half way along the skid. The fronts were fine which i find strange.
billey100
Pro
GT mine pretty much wear like that too, do you run your track a shade on the loose side?
Thanks for the write up Doc, one last question before I really hijack this thread. When putting the skid back in and tightening the track tension back down how do you start couting turns or how do you know how to get them even? I may be making this harder than it is but to tighten it normally I am very careful to turn each bolt the exact same amount but I only have to go a few turns. How many are you talking when back it off to take it out, and roughly how many gets you in the ballpark when tightening? Thanks
Thanks for the write up Doc, one last question before I really hijack this thread. When putting the skid back in and tightening the track tension back down how do you start couting turns or how do you know how to get them even? I may be making this harder than it is but to tighten it normally I am very careful to turn each bolt the exact same amount but I only have to go a few turns. How many are you talking when back it off to take it out, and roughly how many gets you in the ballpark when tightening? Thanks
GT03235
Expert
In all fairness billey i run my track to tight i think
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
billey, I also loosen my bolts up all the way when i remove my skid. And when i tighten them back up I dont count turns, I keep the rear of the sled off the ground and tighten the track until both sides feel the same (pushing down on the track with my finger) and when i get the track as tight as I like, I start the sled up and run the track a bit. Then check to see if the slides are centered in the windows of the track. And tighten or loosen a side until I get it centered, running the track each time I make an adjustment. When I'm happy, I tighten the rear axle, and check it one last time.
I dont know if this is the best, or the correct way...Just the way I've been doing it for years.
I dont know if this is the best, or the correct way...Just the way I've been doing it for years.
