How to negotiate a corner riding a SR Viper hard ?

[gpxsrx]

This is the first 4 stroke i have ever ridden 129 R TX and it is a big learning curve how to negotiate a corner riding hard. I have heard from different 4 stroke riders but not SR Viper 4 stroke riders is to hit the brakes and get the front end where you want it then pin it. Now I'm not running studs as of now but i will be next winter. So grabbing the brake lever and locking it up without studs might work but with studs i don't think so. What i have found when coming into a corner hard then punching it does not work because there is way to much transfer and the skis just lift. I have tried many different limiter strap lengths and coupler blocks and shock pre loads ect. The best way i have found is to let off into your corner and the front end will bite the you can negotiate the curve then punch it as your leaving the corner. Is this how everyone else turns there SR Vipers ? Also at night with high beams on say doing anywhere between 30 to 50 mph and punch it your headlight is in the trees.
P S i only have 800 miles and our season is just about done, Thanks Bruce

 

[Curtis Chambers]

Did you put good carbides on not the cheap factory ones

 

[gpxsrx]

Did you put good carbides on not the cheap factory ones

Sorry should have said what skis i have arctic cat saddleless skis with 9 inch shaper bars i had them on my 2010 snopro D & D 720 big bore. Did not want tuner ski's Bruce

 

[new rob]

I'd say you nailed it ,I corner the same way but at times you need to give the holy #*$&@ lever a little grab. Then point and shoot . I seem to get into more situations when I'm just cruising this sled definitely likes to be ridden hard fun fun fun !!!

 

[cannondale27]

I will just drag the brake a bit while on the throttle then if needed break the back end loose sliding around the apex. Dont have studs but studs really only would change things on ice. I think more important is knees up against the cowl and hang off and forward if needed. Gotta say that Excell system made the back end sliding much easier.

 

[bleedyamaha]

Last week in Cable I was struggling in the corners at faster speeds. I was second so I got to see the corners come up quickly. After sliding all the way fwd and hangn off on the side I wanted to turn this thing turned on a rail. Was alot of fun. Studded and stock cat skis with staggard duelies.

 

[yamamarc]

I find there is a sweet spot in the throttle. When coming into a corner I back off the throttle a bit, lean then hammer it!

 

[NOS-PRO]

The best way i have found is to let off into your corner and the front end will bite the you can negotiate the curve then punch it as your leaving the corner. Is this how everyone else turns there SR Vipers ?

Yes, this is how I ride.

Also at night with high beams on say doing anywhere between 30 to 50 mph and punch it your headlight is in the trees.

This is something I notice also. Going to put an extra set of lights on like Cannondale did to his sled.

 

[cannondale27]

Yes, this is how I ride.



This is something I notice also. Going to put an extra set of lights on like Cannondale did to his sled.

"This is how I ride" Isnt there a Tune like that?

 

[yamamarc]

"This is how I ride" Isnt there a Tune like that?

Sled gangsta!!!!lol

 

[SRXracer]

I just spent a long weekend in the UP riding and spent the first day and half trying to get a high speed push out of the sled. There are a couple of different ways to set the sled up to handle, and it just depends on how you ride, the types of trails you ride, etc. If you haven't already, download the arctic cat service manual for the 7000 sled and read the pages on the chassis. There is some great info in there on getting things setup and how the different adjustments work, and it may not be exactly how you think it is. The two ways I have set mine up are what I would call the "teeter totter" and the "flat". The teeter totter is great on tighter trails where you really aren't back on the throttle completely until you are almost thru the corner. The sled basically pivots on the center shock like a teeter totter, but you have to be off the throttle or on the brake to get the sled to bite. The main elements to this setup are a softer front shocks to allow some forward weight transfer, and a stiffer center shock. The challenge with this setup is when you are running higher speed more open trails, and you pick the throttle back up mid-corner, your skis come up, and the steers goes away in a hurry - not good.

I will also note, I had my front end set up pretty soft (like 50 psi in the floats) and loved the way it rode thru the bumps and trail chatter. It all but eliminated it. The problem was the soft front end contributed to the teeter totter effect, and when you transferred forward, there was a considerable amount of darting in hard pack snow because the back of the track was getting light. I tried and tried to work the rear skid to get rid of it and just couldn't find a setup to do it. I also have C&A RZR's on it, but now that I have the chassis mostly figured out, I'd like to go back to the tuners just to try them again.

The Flat setup basically eliminates the center shock as a pivot point, and keeps the full track planted on the snow when off the throttle to keep things tracking straight. I backed several full turns off the center shock - it actually doesn't take much, and went up to about 70 psi in the front shocks. This eliminated the front sag, and weight transfer forward, and now this sled is on rails. High speed or low speed, the skis stay in contact with the snow, and it doesn't matter when you get back in the throttle, it turns. The bump performance in the front end is compromised a little bit, but it's a good trade off in my opinion to have the steering.

 

[cannondale27]

The Flat setup basically eliminates the center shock as a pivot point, and keeps the full track planted on the snow when off the throttle to keep things tracking straight. I backed several full turns off the center shock - it actually doesn't take much, and went up to about 70 psi in the front shocks. This eliminated the front sag, and weight transfer forward, and now this sled is on rails. High speed or low speed, the skis stay in contact with the snow, and it doesn't matter when you get back in the throttle, it turns. The bump performance in the front end is compromised a little bit, but it's a good trade off in my opinion to have the steering.

This is where the rear shock comes into play. With Sag. Wish we had even more. Also affects the first setup with rebound speed. I cant say enough how huge a handling improvement getting the rear shocks right affects the handling.

 

[gpxsrx]

Thanks for all the reply lad's . So I think i'm heading in the right direction, I will send my shock to Mike(Carver) this summer and have them revalved for sure.He did wonders for my Snopro 720.

 

[cannondale27]

Thanks for all the reply lad's . So I think i'm heading in the right direction, I will send my shock to Mike(Carver) this summer and have them revalved for sure.He did wonders for my Snopro 720.

I can also do them with Carver valving and mod. PM me for price.

 

[northof50]

I lay off coming into a corner, about half way through, I shake my #*$&@ and move the tail out, then point and shoot.