• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

How to remove Quiet lugs?

fxnytrortxkid

fxnytrortxkid

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
1,568
Age
42
Location
Rensselaer, ny
Country
USA
Snowmobile
09 nytro rtx
hey all. Searched a bit with no success. But wheels are chewed up from studs and these quiet lugs. What’s everyone’s best method to remove them? Think that will be part of my summer work even tho it doesn’t sound fun. Lol
 

fxnytrortxkid said:
hey all. Searched a bit with no success. But wheels are chewed up from studs and these quiet lugs. What’s everyone’s best method to remove them? Think that will be part of my summer work even tho it doesn’t sound fun. Lol
Click to expand...
Don't think it is the quiet bumps - it's just the studs. Are the studs sucked into the track deep enough?
 
And it’s hard to get them totally sunk into track when it’s split between the bumps and not totally on them. You end up having to squeeze ton more rubber under portion of the stud
 
5350km on mine (first season) and I studded thr outside of thr track following Woody's pattern (129" track with 135 studs @ 3 per bar which puts 1 stud per bar alternating sides on the outside of track on quiet pads) and this weekend I noticed all 4 of my outside idlers are chewed up pretty bad. Will probably replace them and remove the outside studs (or put on an Ice Storm 150).
 
Look at your inside wheels I bet they are the same. I’ve seen it suggested to cut them off before studding and I think studboys actually said it to me also. Just trying to find out how as I’ve never had this on a track without these silly things.
 
I used Woodys single ply grand masters. They suck up better due to a thinner shoulder. They also have a bigger and thinner head. 2 years on 144 studs and only a few carbide tips missing!
 
fxnytrortxkid said:
And it’s hard to get them totally sunk into track when it’s split between the bumps and not totally on them. You end up having to squeeze ton more rubber under portion of the stud
Click to expand...
I have studded a track like this. I tightened so the heads were pulled in deep.
 
That looks like a lot of work! Will just sell this track and get one without them. $40usd per idler for Yan ones and need 6, woof that sucks! Hopefully I can find a less costly alternative.
 
1200 miles exactly for me and inner idlers will chunk off....Happened twice now at that time. Outers look NEW as I only stud up middle.

Couple things....Im not 100% convinced shaving off quiet bumps will ensure idler wheel life that is as good as NO studs. Will they last longer? I would say YES.

On my 129, the inner idlers actually could simply be removed IMO. I know this cause my sliders look NEW still and barely wear. Also, I had been riding a couple hundred miles with inner idlers having ALL rubber gone, nowhere near touching the track, and sliders still look fine. This may not be true on a 137 as I think there is more spread between the outer idlers.

I also think Gold Diggers in general wear idlers more then flat head studs....since I have had this similar issue even on sled without quiet bumps. The cupped heads IMO tend to hurt the rubber idlers sooner then a flat head stud.

I may just take my Dewalt oscillating tool and shave certain bumps off where stud head is sitting high.

BTW, I was able to swap out inners in just a few minutes, with sled on floor and even lots of ice in skid....not a bad job at all, always loctite the nylock nuts with blue.

Dan

dewalt-oscillating-tools-dcs355b-64_1000.jpg
 
its not that bad of a job really

totally agree with the gold diggers profile. I tried the studboys and they sit a lot nicer. 9500 k and have only replaced 3 bent ones and 2 lost their carbide tip
 
lilrez said:
its not that bad of a job really

totally agree with the gold diggers profile. I tried the studboys and they sit a lot nicer. 9500 k and have only replaced 3 bent ones and 2 lost their carbide tip
Click to expand...
Yeah true, the cupped head also does not pull down as much as a thinner head stud....Next time I stud I will run Megabites i think.

Dan
 
Triggers..? Have not heard anything bad yet but typically see 240 or more installed. not sure how they'd hold up on a 2 or 3 per row setup.
 
Running studboys in mine, dad has gold diggers and wheels look the same.

Also they acccidentally gave me single ply studs at first so I swapped one bag for the normal ones since I couldn’t use them in the double plates and I used the single ply ones on outside and all single plates down middle. All wheels are chewed up. Gonna give it a try shaving them out this summer
 
ROCKERDAN said:
1200 miles exactly for me and inner idlers will chunk off....Happened twice now at that time. Outers look NEW as I only stud up middle.

Couple things....Im not 100% convinced shaving off quiet bumps will ensure idler wheel life that is as good as NO studs. Will they last longer? I would say YES.

On my 129, the inner idlers actually could simply be removed IMO. I know this cause my sliders look NEW still and barely wear. Also, I had been riding a couple hundred miles with inner idlers having ALL rubber gone, nowhere near touching the track, and sliders still look fine. This may not be true on a 137 as I think there is more spread between the outer idlers.

I also think Gold Diggers in general wear idlers more then flat head studs....since I have had this similar issue even on sled without quiet bumps. The cupped heads IMO tend to hurt the rubber idlers sooner then a flat head stud.

I may just take my Dewalt oscillating tool and shave certain bumps off where stud head is sitting high.

BTW, I was able to swap out inners in just a few minutes, with sled on floor and even lots of ice in skid....not a bad job at all, always loctite the nylock nuts with blue.

Dan

dewalt-oscillating-tools-dcs355b-64_1000.jpg
Click to expand...
Ah the fun of conventional studs
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top