• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

How to remove Quiet lugs?

doubles do give support but having all studs that close together you loose some penetration. Think bed of nails. They are great to mix in, and plenty for trail riding. But to get solid traction on ice you need singles too
 

I will never run doubles again.....far more vibrations then any previous sled I have studded, and many of my doubles BEND where NO single ever bent yet. Being too rigid is why. Much of this depends on length chosen.

To each their own when it comes to studding and carbides i say, as we all like different handling characteristics.

Dan
 
Indeed Dan. That's really too bad that you have some bending. I believe you ride much harder than a lot of us and this could be the difference perhaps??
 
As opposed to?

My setup: 192 Stud Boy Lake Racer 1.630" length mounted on Stud Boy ProLite double backers. Lightest setup possible (about 2 lbs lighter than double aluminum backers w aluminum locking nuts). Very few issues with broken studs or broken backers. Obviously I ride on trails with good snow on them. I did break a few last month riding in NE MN on sparse snow on lots of rocks (typical for that part of MN).

I removed the quiet track lugs for each stud by using a 15/16" dia. (diameter of stud head) hole saw with a stop set so it only went into track about 1/16" (thickness of stud head). Then, I used a die grinder with a small carbide burr to remove that 15/16" circle of quiet track. Studs are now flush no matter where they are. Lots of work! It was a summer project. BTW- I don't have any aftermarket tunnel protectors and even these 1.63" studs do not hit anything IF track tension is where it should be.

Turboflash
 

Attachments

  • studding2.jpg
    studding2.jpg
    55.8 KB · Views: 204
  • Studding1.jpg
    Studding1.jpg
    57.1 KB · Views: 191
My setup: 192 Stud Boy Lake Racer 1.630" length mounted on Stud Boy ProLite double backers. Lightest setup possible (about 2 lbs lighter than double aluminum backers w aluminum locking nuts). Very few issues with broken studs or broken backers. Obviously I ride on trails with good snow on them. I did break a few last month riding in NE MN on sparse snow on lots of rocks (typical for that part of MN).

I removed the quiet track lugs for each stud by using a 15/16" dia. (diameter of stud head) hole saw with a stop set so it only went into track about 1/16" (thickness of stud head). Then, I used a die grinder with a small carbide burr to remove that 15/16" circle of quiet track. Studs are now flush no matter where they are. Lots of work! It was a summer project. BTW- I don't have any aftermarket tunnel protectors and even these 1.63" studs do not hit anything IF track tension is where it should be.

Turboflash
Hmmmmmm, over 9000kms with Woody's Gold Diggers on all double backers and all wheels look like new! Maybe I just really cranked them down lol?View attachment 147527 View attachment 147528
My setup: 192 Stud Boy Lake Racer 1.630" length mounted on Stud Boy ProLite double backers. Lightest setup possible (about 2 lbs lighter than double aluminum backers w aluminum locking nuts). Very few issues with broken studs or broken backers. Obviously I ride on trails with good snow on them. I did break a few last month riding in NE MN on sparse snow on lots of rocks (typical for that part of MN).

I removed the quiet track lugs for each stud by using a 15/16" dia. (diameter of stud head) hole saw with a stop set so it only went into track about 1/16" (thickness of stud head). Then, I used a die grinder with a small carbide burr to remove that 15/16" circle of quiet track. Studs are now flush no matter where they are. Lots of work! It was a summer project. BTW- I don't have any aftermarket tunnel protectors and even these 1.63" studs do not hit anything IF track tension is where it should be.

Turboflash
That must push like a son of a @#$/& in the corners not for me at all you must stud the outside if you want to keep up
 
If your following the stud manufactures instructions your probably running 3/16' penetration with conventional studs, if your not running 1/2" to 3/4" penetration its a waste of time been there done it,i was skeptical for many years until i tried the igrips this year and wow thats all i can say
This is the first year I tried igrips and while I like them because of their simplicity, they are nowhere near the traction of regular studs.
However, in all fairness the cobra track only came with 2 holes per bar for the igrips, but even if you were to compare equal amounts I still think regular studs offer more because the igrips don't protrude far enough.
 
I will never run doubles again.....far more vibrations then any previous sled I have studded, and many of my doubles BEND where NO single ever bent yet. Being too rigid is why. Much of this depends on length chosen.

To each their own when it comes to studding and carbides i say, as we all like different handling characteristics.

Dan
Dan, how far above the lugs do you like the studs? I've decided to run the 1 inch next year with studs, and I have 1.375's. These are about 1/2 past the lugs.
Too long?
 
That must push like a son of a @#$/& in the corners not for me at all you must stud the outside if you want to keep up
I run 9" Shaper carbides wear rods so sled turns and handles just fine for me. The more studs one has in the outside belts of the track, the more it wants to go straight and not turn (push), that's why I didn't stud the outside as I knew it would be harder to turn. Works for me.
 
Outside studded every other and turns fine. 7.5” shapers on c&a rz skis. Dull carbides or stick skis will cause poor cornering
 
Fast, that’s our point. We have them studded like that because we like no compromise traction. If I was road rider with no care beyond the back end not coming totally around or able to climb hills that have icy spots without coming backeards I would look into an ice ripper or igrips. The comparison is all season tires to studded snows imo.
 
I run 9" Shaper carbides wear rods so sled turns and handles just fine for me. The more studs one has in the outside belts of the track, the more it wants to go straight and not turn (push), that's why I didn't stud the outside as I knew it would be harder to turn. Works for me.
 
Wrong the outside studs allow you to turn with out letting off the throttle
 
I run 9" Shaper carbides wear rods so sled turns and handles just fine for me. The more studs one has in the outside belts of the track, the more it wants to go straight and not turn (push), that's why I didn't stud the outside as I knew it would be harder to turn. Works for me.
Your miss informed studding the center is only good for going in a staight line no good for trail riding
 


Back
Top