Clintww
Extreme
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- Central MN
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- 2001 SXR. 2005 RX1. 2017 Sidewinder
- LOCATION
- MN
I was finally able to take my sled on a three day trip after installing a bunch of stuff over 2 years. Day 1 on the 270 tune ran perfect for 50 miles no matter the throttle settings or how hard I hit it My only issue is low RPMs at 8400. Second day out on 270 when I would roll into the throttle from half way the engine would pop and not accelerate so I immediately stopped and retuned to the 240 setting. Sled ran fine this way for 150 miles. Third Day I got error code SD 26 so I set the tune to 220 and erased it right away The code came back about 50 miles later. (I know I need to pull some weight from my arms to get RPMs up)
What i'm concerned with is the 2nd day and the engine popping. There were no codes that day. Is the 270 tune fussy about gas quality? The first day I had a bottle of cheap octane boost in it but none the second. Is it a sign of a boost leak? I believe I have a boost leak that led to the third day code. The main charge tube clamp on the turbo was loose. I plan to add a second clamp there. I have been here along time and have done all the basic simple things like spark plugs and clamp spacers.
That 50 miles the first day was incredible to experience the pull. I could tell the lose of power going to 220 It seemed boring already LOL
Having the flasher permanently mounted to the sled in the the storage box is definitely the way to go if you have multiple tunes. 2 minutes with my phone and I can change and see everything plus clear codes.
I see guys running the 270 tune constantly. How do I get there? Ideas?
What i'm concerned with is the 2nd day and the engine popping. There were no codes that day. Is the 270 tune fussy about gas quality? The first day I had a bottle of cheap octane boost in it but none the second. Is it a sign of a boost leak? I believe I have a boost leak that led to the third day code. The main charge tube clamp on the turbo was loose. I plan to add a second clamp there. I have been here along time and have done all the basic simple things like spark plugs and clamp spacers.
That 50 miles the first day was incredible to experience the pull. I could tell the lose of power going to 220 It seemed boring already LOL
Having the flasher permanently mounted to the sled in the the storage box is definitely the way to go if you have multiple tunes. 2 minutes with my phone and I can change and see everything plus clear codes.
I see guys running the 270 tune constantly. How do I get there? Ideas?
A couple of possible causes of your sleds issues come to mind:
-obviously a boost leak as you have identified
-bad fuel
-fouled plugs
-condensation and or ice in the vent tube on the wastegate solenoid [see thread link below]
ty4stroke.com
-obviously a boost leak as you have identified
-bad fuel
-fouled plugs
-condensation and or ice in the vent tube on the wastegate solenoid [see thread link below]
Plugging the wastegate solenoid vent?
Has anyone had there wastegate solenoid vent plugged by dealer? I have 2 winders here both with plugged vent lines both had codes and this was yamaha recommendation (both stock at the time) One is stock and runs fine The second one is tuned and is getting only 13lbs on 270 with both hurricane...
Norse
Pro
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- 2013 Arctic Cat M1100 HCR 162"
Boondocker turbo 250HP(sold)
2016 Yamaha SR Viper MTX LE 162"
MCXpress 270HP, lots of mods (sold)
2021 Arctic Cat M8000 Hardcore Alpha 155"
N/A (sold)
2023 Yamaha SW MTX LE 153"
M&M Racing 270HP, Elevate, lots of mods
270 requires premium, I don't recommend running cheap octane booster and cheap gas. RPMs can likely be fixed with correct weights/clutching setup, unless there is another issue. Hurricane knows what setup will work for your machine. That main tube clamp is known to come loose, just fit a wider one or maybe 2. Also, do you have reinforced silicone tubes, a more powerful BOV and exhaust muffler?
hpmaniac
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- 2025 mtx sidewinder
2024 9r turbo
2025 summit xpert 165 turbo r
The ONLY octane booster i would use and i use it in my 350hp pro r polaris and my 1000hp pump gas hellcat is Boostane.
I have proven many times to myself that it works when watching data logs. I am very cautious about octane boosters but this stuff does work.
It is NOT a race fuel replacement but it is great for bringing octane up 5-7 points. Roughly 1/2 oz per gallon will take 91 octane to a realistic 97 octane fuel. I have watched light knock vanish many times watching data logs.
I have proven many times to myself that it works when watching data logs. I am very cautious about octane boosters but this stuff does work.
It is NOT a race fuel replacement but it is great for bringing octane up 5-7 points. Roughly 1/2 oz per gallon will take 91 octane to a realistic 97 octane fuel. I have watched light knock vanish many times watching data logs.
Clintww
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- 2001 SXR. 2005 RX1. 2017 Sidewinder
- LOCATION
- MN
I have not changed the stock tubes or the BOV yet, but have that on order. My RPMs are down I'm sure because I went to a 22 tooth top gear so a quick weight change should get that fixed.
The waste get hose was removed long ago and I have new double ground EK plugs as Knapp suggests
In MN 91 premium non oxy fuel is everywhere and what I use, but up north in the woods it could be questionable. Is octane booster mandatory at that power level, or is it needed for older weak gas? I had dumped a whole bottle of cheap booster in for the first day because I knew some of the gas was old.
As soon as I have the BOV I will do a leak test. I just bought a system pressure tester that I will connect to the turbo output hose
Anything else I'm missing? I would be concerned about fuel pump had it acted up the first day. Even with the error code the third day it ran perfect on the lower tunes although I didn't do much high speed running. I have a mechanical boost gauge too and had boost all three days
Now it appears I might not get to test any of this until next year with the warm weather coming....
The waste get hose was removed long ago and I have new double ground EK plugs as Knapp suggests
In MN 91 premium non oxy fuel is everywhere and what I use, but up north in the woods it could be questionable. Is octane booster mandatory at that power level, or is it needed for older weak gas? I had dumped a whole bottle of cheap booster in for the first day because I knew some of the gas was old.
As soon as I have the BOV I will do a leak test. I just bought a system pressure tester that I will connect to the turbo output hose
Anything else I'm missing? I would be concerned about fuel pump had it acted up the first day. Even with the error code the third day it ran perfect on the lower tunes although I didn't do much high speed running. I have a mechanical boost gauge too and had boost all three days
Now it appears I might not get to test any of this until next year with the warm weather coming....
Norse
Pro
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- 2013 Arctic Cat M1100 HCR 162"
Boondocker turbo 250HP(sold)
2016 Yamaha SR Viper MTX LE 162"
MCXpress 270HP, lots of mods (sold)
2021 Arctic Cat M8000 Hardcore Alpha 155"
N/A (sold)
2023 Yamaha SW MTX LE 153"
M&M Racing 270HP, Elevate, lots of mods
Upgraded hoses and BOV will hold more boost. Yes, Boostane is thoroughly proven to work well, I recommend it for lower octane gas. One option is normal gas with booster, other is premium; mandatory for 270. As for bad gas, I can only think of fuel stabilizer.
I've had bad experiences with other booster brands, you need to fill way more than adviced for it to work, and that's expensive.
I've had bad experiences with other booster brands, you need to fill way more than adviced for it to work, and that's expensive.
acpantera
Pro
Running the Hurricane eco tune for the last 4,000 mile, no fuss, pulls 9,000 rpm till the trail ends. Couldn't be happier.
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Turboflash
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- '17 ZR9000 Ltd. 137 - PEFI Stage 4
The only octane booster that is proven to actually work is Boostane Professional. Nothing else works. NOT just Boostane - Boostane Professional. There's a big difference.Upgraded hoses and BOV will hold more boost. Yes, Boostane is thoroughly proven to work well, I recommend it for lower octane gas. One option is normal gas with booster, other is premium; mandatory for 270. As for bad gas, I can only think of fuel stabilizer.
I've had bad experiences with other booster brands, you need to fill way more than adviced for it to work, and that's expensive.
Also, premium gas WITH ethanol (in MN most of that gas is 92 octane from the pump) is actually the best pump gas for your sled. The ethanol actually suppresses deto, lowers combustion temperatures. Something 91 non-ethanol can't do.
You must check every single clamp on that sled. Most are loose.
The other thought I had is is your throttle cable too tight? It should have about .060" play at the thumb flipper.
Any chance your fuel pump or fuel filters are restrictive?
You may have too low fuel pressure at times of high demand. You might need a better/bigger fuel pump.
Clintww
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I appreciate all the suggestions and the gas information isn't something I thought of but makes sense. I'm so used to using Non Oxy in terms of storage and two strokes I don't even consider the 92 premium
The part I don't understand is I was just running half throttle trying to roll in slowly. I didn't get to 3/4 throttle before the pops happened. It definitely felt like fuel starvation as it stumbled. As soon as it went to half throttle again it ran perfect. I tried this twice with same results. I then stopped and went down to the 240 tune and everything went fine the rest of the day. It was the next day I got the error code. 50 miles on the 270 tune tune the day before with no issue.
I did find a boost leak tonight of my own making that I will have corrected soon. I really wonder now if I just had weak gas?
The part I don't understand is I was just running half throttle trying to roll in slowly. I didn't get to 3/4 throttle before the pops happened. It definitely felt like fuel starvation as it stumbled. As soon as it went to half throttle again it ran perfect. I tried this twice with same results. I then stopped and went down to the 240 tune and everything went fine the rest of the day. It was the next day I got the error code. 50 miles on the 270 tune tune the day before with no issue.
I did find a boost leak tonight of my own making that I will have corrected soon. I really wonder now if I just had weak gas?
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Turboflash
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Old stale gas could cause that. But
I'd still check out your fuel pressure for sure. Is fuel pressure correct?
I'd still check out your fuel pressure for sure. Is fuel pressure correct?
I know people are probably sick of hearing this but when your sled is having running issues that need solving that is where data logging is invaluable. If I purchased and was setting up another SW I would again have Hurricane tunes and the data logging feature would be a must.
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STAIN
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What is your clutching? Could the pop be knock protection?
questionable fuel and too heavy weights can cause knock protection to activate. The low RPM suggest your loading the engine too hard.
I run the 240 tune 90% of the time and find it very forgiving on fuel quality.
questionable fuel and too heavy weights can cause knock protection to activate. The low RPM suggest your loading the engine too hard.
I run the 240 tune 90% of the time and find it very forgiving on fuel quality.
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KnappAttack
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
One should never run old fuel. Octane boost won't get back the light ends and vapor pressure the old fuel has lost, and chances are it's more than a season old since there was no snow last winter to run either.
If its a stock muffler tune, I'm not sure it will be happy with a 270 tune without really good octane and fresh fuel. People run on 270 tunes with a hi-flow performance muffler more, there's a big difference on ability to run deto free with a hi-flow muffler. The stock muffler makes high exhaust pressure and more heat. It will be more critical to have good fresh high octane fuel. As had been said, ethanol free fuel makes for less power potential on a turbo four-stroke. Ethanol cools the intake charge better than Ethanol free fuel and can make more power because of this. It's why people like to tune for E85 in the car and SXS world as it has more octane and has the ability to make more power safer.
Also know that just because the dash isn't flashing that things are OK, the tune will pull timing prior to flashing the dash. This can only bee seen if your logging and looking at the data. Pulling timing kills the performance away by massive amounts. This can be why a smaller tune can and will be as fast as larger tunes along with other factors. So just because you can click up in tunes doesn't meant you should, nor does it mean it will be faster. You have to know the how's and why's to go with the data presented.
If its a stock muffler tune, I'm not sure it will be happy with a 270 tune without really good octane and fresh fuel. People run on 270 tunes with a hi-flow performance muffler more, there's a big difference on ability to run deto free with a hi-flow muffler. The stock muffler makes high exhaust pressure and more heat. It will be more critical to have good fresh high octane fuel. As had been said, ethanol free fuel makes for less power potential on a turbo four-stroke. Ethanol cools the intake charge better than Ethanol free fuel and can make more power because of this. It's why people like to tune for E85 in the car and SXS world as it has more octane and has the ability to make more power safer.
Also know that just because the dash isn't flashing that things are OK, the tune will pull timing prior to flashing the dash. This can only bee seen if your logging and looking at the data. Pulling timing kills the performance away by massive amounts. This can be why a smaller tune can and will be as fast as larger tunes along with other factors. So just because you can click up in tunes doesn't meant you should, nor does it mean it will be faster. You have to know the how's and why's to go with the data presented.
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