kcusscam
Extreme
apltx08 said:
You are correct, thank for the info. I did tighten to the tighter end of the tolerance and it is not wearing anymore where it was, actually I just put on a few hundred miles today and did not notice any wear on the front either so I will leave it and trow a couple of hundred more on it and probably change them before we go on your 1000 mile trip if a few weeks. The interesting part about this tip y cousin actually wore the sliders right off, 60 miles out and he had to ride it back without any sliders, supprisingly it did not hurt it very much, lots and lots of loose stuff so atleast he had some lubrication.
SLEDSTART
VIP Member
kcusscam said:
What apltx08 said is right on...along with what you just said. My RX and SRX will wear down in the rear just to a certain point then for the most part stop. The dealer I deal with up north said I was replacing them too soon. He said there is still material after the wear line. I have notice they are not wearing past where they are now UNLESS I rip down some hardpack or ice with no fluff and heat them up. Then no matter what, your gonna melt them depending how long you hold it to the bar. Mine just behind the outter bogies are above the wear bar by about 1/8th inch. curves are meaty. They have 1400 miles on them from a trip I did in the UP, and today riding around here is like riding on ice. We did not go very far...plus out in the open were having 30 MPH sustained winds at 0 so it's a little brisk...
Everything just froze up hard!
My temp lite actually came on at one point until I cooled the running boards with some chunks of snow, and my buddy said he smelled plastic when I stabbed it, so conditions play a big part along with that track being adjusted right.
kcusscam said:
Make sure the track isnt too tight!
I just added the small front wheels to mine. I'll let you all know how that goes
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
Don't forget 1 thing, the 1st part of WEARING is usually the 1st 500 to 1000 kms with NEW hyfax with that said if your track was on the titghter end of SPEC...it will loosen 'cause of HYFAX wear and should be right in that SWEET spot, so if you start off with a looser track you'll end up being way to LOOSE! and that is when I noticed more wear between the inner small idlers and the larger rear wheels...(rear part of HYFAX)
This is why I start off with a TIGHT track and everything their on just wears fine...I've got 3500kms on mine so far with 1 to 1.5mm wear and worn fairly even from front to back, I'm a high speed rider with stock track closed every 3rd stock size idlers and no STUDS.
This is why I start off with a TIGHT track and everything their on just wears fine...I've got 3500kms on mine so far with 1 to 1.5mm wear and worn fairly even from front to back, I'm a high speed rider with stock track closed every 3rd stock size idlers and no STUDS.
SLEDSTART
VIP Member
apltx08 said:Don't forget 1 thing, the 1st part of WEARING is usually the 1st 500 to 1000 kms with NEW hyfax with that said if your track was on the titghter end of SPEC...it will loosen 'cause of HYFAX wear and should be right in that SWEET spot, so if you start off with a looser track you'll end up being way to LOOSE! and that is when I noticed more wear between the inner small idlers and the larger rear wheels...(rear part of HYFAX)
This is why I start off with a TIGHT track and everything their on just wears fine...I've got 3500kms on mine so far with 1 to 1.5mm wear and worn fairly even from front to back, I'm a high speed rider with stock track closed every 3rd stock size idlers and no STUDS.
apltx08
Just curious...
Are you running your track within spec of the Yamaha book? I think it's something like 1" between track & hyfax with 15-20 LBS of pulled weight at the center of the track?
That always seems so damn tight to me. Could barley turn the track by hand...but now that I think of it...it's always when I put fresh hyfax on it that it seems that tight. What your saying makes sense with the hyfax wear and the sweet spot after you have tightened the track..
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
If you get the Pioneer Kit, I recommend machining 1/8" off the four front wheel mounts to compensate for the added 1/8" the offset devices add. I did not initially do this. The devices put the wheels out 1/8" closer to the edge of the track. After a couple K miles, you can see that the wheels turned the track edge down and the hyfax was wiped out just in front of the wheels. Yesterday, I did the machining and flipped the second set of wheels to the inside of the track to get them off the edge. I also am now running the track very close to spec. The ole just tight enough to NOT ratchet is almost two times spec, on my sled. I think the loose track could work it's way up just before the wheels. I also pulled up the straps 20 flats of the adjustment. I actually like the handling better there too. Compensates for the nearly worn out doolies very nicely.
By the way, the inner wheels (third set from the front) on the offset axle seemed to work really well. The hyfax wear after a couple K miles was fairly uniform from the front wheel back with about 3/4 of the hyfax left. But the hyfax was shot due to the abnormal wear in front of the front set of wheels.
By the way, the inner wheels (third set from the front) on the offset axle seemed to work really well. The hyfax wear after a couple K miles was fairly uniform from the front wheel back with about 3/4 of the hyfax left. But the hyfax was shot due to the abnormal wear in front of the front set of wheels.
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
[quote="SNOWDOG
apltx08
Just curious...
Are you running your track within spec of the Yamaha book? I think it's something like 1" between track & hyfax with 15-20 LBS of pulled weight at the center of the track?
That always seems so damn tight to me. Could barley turn the track by hand...but now that I think of it...it's always when I put fresh hyfax on it that it seems that tight. What your saying makes sense with the hyfax wear and the sweet spot after you have tightened the track..[/quote]
Yes I follow Yam's spec to 1 1/8"" with 22lbs lead weight that I put in the centre of my track with new HYFAX...from their on I'll check for tension at every 1000kms or so and try to keep it within spec 1 1/8" to 1 1/2" with 22 lbs and make sure track is aligned.
apltx08
Just curious...
Are you running your track within spec of the Yamaha book? I think it's something like 1" between track & hyfax with 15-20 LBS of pulled weight at the center of the track?
That always seems so damn tight to me. Could barley turn the track by hand...but now that I think of it...it's always when I put fresh hyfax on it that it seems that tight. What your saying makes sense with the hyfax wear and the sweet spot after you have tightened the track..[/quote]
Yes I follow Yam's spec to 1 1/8"" with 22lbs lead weight that I put in the centre of my track with new HYFAX...from their on I'll check for tension at every 1000kms or so and try to keep it within spec 1 1/8" to 1 1/2" with 22 lbs and make sure track is aligned.
SLEDSTART
VIP Member
Thanks....I'll be tightening mine up a bit...
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
SNOWDOG said:
Let me know how it works out for you...
SLEDSTART
VIP Member
So I tightened it up tonight and went for a spin. A few inches of fresh powder helped but it seems as though tuning it tighter does help. Did about 50 miles and a lot of WOT high speed runs and they look the same as when I started tonight. One thing I did notice is that after tightening it, it seems a bit looser than it was after I got back. I'm letting it thaw out and get back to room temp before I do any adjusting again. Also, it seemed like one side of the track would not adjust the same as the other. When I set one side at 1.25" with the 22lbs of pull (within spec) and had the other side at the same number of turns (keeping the track aligned with equal space on the numbs to the rails...the other side had like 1.5" of space.
Why would that be?
I left it like that because I wanted the track running true. I know it says in the book to pull from the center of the track but how? I just hooked a fish scale at the same track clip on each side and pulled to 22lbs and measured.
Why would that be?
I left it like that because I wanted the track running true. I know it says in the book to pull from the center of the track but how? I just hooked a fish scale at the same track clip on each side and pulled to 22lbs and measured.
kcusscam
Extreme
SNOWDOG said:
I think setting 22 lbs of weight in the middle of the track is much easier, I just used my soft dive weights.. When I adjusted mine I just turned them out until both sides where at the correct deflection and just realigned it. I did not bother counting the number of turn from where it was at because you are never going to get the exact same turns on it anyways.
SLEDSTART
VIP Member
I thought of putting something in there for weight but had nothing that I knew weighed 22 lbs. It was not a big deal doing it the way i did...and I know I will never get the exact alignment counting turns but it gets me close. I came in about 3.5 turns on each side.
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
I use a 22lbs LEAD weight...
Dont change them to quickly I run a mountain sled on trails and I get 1500 miles on a set. They do wear fast right off the start but once the wear gets near the rail the rail acts as a heat sink and takes the heat away from the slider keeping them cool. Cool or cold slides dont wear fast mine seem to stay at about 2mm left of wear forever and it only takes 100 miles to get them to that wear level on the trails. Like was said earlier go slow on low snow conditions and get into some deep stuff as often as possible and kick some snow on them when ever you stop.
SLEDSTART
VIP Member
Yeah this set I have on now have about 1400 miles on them and there is still a bit over 1/8 inch before the wear line and it seems to be staying there now that I have the track tighter. My dealer said the same thing about changing too soon. There is material after the wear line as well he said.
